Oil drain question

bgfire

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I too did a used Hypermax install without punching the holes for the turbo oil drain; the oil found all sorts of areas to drain out of the turbo. I later put a brand new turbo on, and made sure I punched the holes. No more oil leaks.

The Hypermax install instructions aren't the greatest, but they really need to be heeded regarding the drain holes into the valley pan! I got to do it twice.
 

Exekiel69

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I want to bring this thread back to make sure...

I have the Hypermax turbo and never punched the holes in it valley pan, I never got one oil leak yet. I didn't read the Hypermax instructions, i read Mel's installation which was more educational, now I don't remember Him mention anything about the holes in the valley pan but this raises some questions, will this slow the oil flow to the lifters, camshaft, rods, etc?

Thank You.
 

towcat

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I have the Hypermax turbo and never punched the holes in it valley pan, I never got one oil leak yet. I didn't read the Hypermax instructions, i read Mel's installation which was more educational, now I don't remember Him mention anything about the holes in the valley pan but this raises some questions, will this slow the oil flow to the lifters, camshaft, rods, etc?

Thank You.
ez-
the drainback holes have nothing to do with oil flow to the lifter galley other than it keeps the oil from getting OUT from the crankcase area. The air in the crankcase is heavily laden with oil mist and foaming oil, so the more baffling to seperate the oil from the air is good for the CDR. Even then, a large amount of oil still gets drawn into the intake. When removing the CDR and installing a turbo drainback tube, the volume of drain oil is alot more than what the CDR system ever thought of putting out. As a result, I am of the belief that anything to enhance the oil drainage is a good thing.
...just my .02cookoo
 

Agnem

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I have the Hypermax turbo and never punched the holes in it valley pan, I never got one oil leak yet. I didn't read the Hypermax instructions, i read Mel's installation which was more educational, now I don't remember Him mention anything about the holes in the valley pan but this raises some questions, will this slow the oil flow to the lifters, camshaft, rods, etc?

Thank You.


EZ, we had that discussion on the phone back at the time you were doing it, if I recall.
 

Exekiel69

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OK, was it when I posted some pics about a hole at the end of the valley pan that I sealed with silicone cookoo bc I thought someone forgot to put a plug in it? I remember You said to keep it clean since that was supossed to be un-plugged. Now I'll check those pics again and if it will make a positive difference I will get Me some long nails and punch a couple holes in the valley pan.

Thank You.
 

zigg

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Ok, since we're on the subject, I'll put up a couple pics I have.

First, is a pic of the back of the engine with the valley pan off, and you can see where the plug goes that holds the valley pan on, and where anything that collects in the valley will drain out/down the back of the block, usually off to the passenger side over the starter...
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next up, is a pic of the valley pan from above. You can see where the CDR goes in,(and where the turbo drains into-this is where you need to punch holes) and behind it where the valley drain is, and the drain hole is lower, so that oil/coolant/water etc that lands in the valley drains out, not down into the lifters area...
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Last, is a pic of the valley pan from the side, and you can clearly see where the CDR drain pipe hangs down, is below the overflow lip, so if the oil can't drain out fast enough, it ends up filling up into the CDR (or turbo drain) and blocks it, until that trough fills up to the side overflow areas. Not really good performance. In the case of the CDR valve, positive crank pressure would tend to then push oil up via the CDR into the intake.
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I say punch the holes. It definately won't hurt anything that's for sure...

Zigg :)
 

ttman4

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Clear Me UP!! please....

OK, just so I'm clear too. I'm gonna go slow & use lots of words....
Zigg, TC, the holed we're talking about punching is thru the old CDR hole, Same hole that the turbo drain tube fits into/thru the rubber grommet if we're turboed. Right?
I need to go see if I can find my old valley pan tomorrow. The baffels, 3 layers of them (or 2 layers under valley pan), are under here. Holes enlarged or poked thru baffles to enlarge or whatever...make'ur drain!!!

Now other question....the threaded drain plug with the square drive, at back of valley pan, is the plug open or does it need to be out to drain externally? Or am I thinking about some other external drain that drains oil, antifreeze, crud, etc that collects on top of valley pan?

Zigg, in your first pic, if I remember mine correct, the drain hole drains externally thru the threaded hole in your pic. The adaptor plate, between tranny & block, bolts on rear of block. With the adaptor plate in place, the external drain has to drain sorta infront of the adaptor plate, right? If there is build-up of crud in the valley pan drain hole OR in front of the adaptor plate, then the valley pan has trouble draining off, out, & away....

My experience & near misshap 2-3 year ago.....Down at local carwash & washed the heck outa my engine. Drove about 3 miles. For some reason later I decided to ck the oil. I had way toooo much oil on dipstick. Changed oil there before going anyfarther.....drained about 1 1/2 gal of really clear, sparkly, clean, fresh water from crankcase, along with some oil!
As it turned out....the grommet around turbo drain was virtually near gone, And the drain in back of valley was crudded & plugged...thus letting water drain into crankcase thru turbo drain tube hole/CDR hole.

I was very lucky!!! & it did throw a chill thru my heart, down my spine...all the way to my toes!!!:eek::eek:
I very carefully wash the engine now....check oil dipstick before driving off....
I'm gittin too old for these kind of scares....it gave me carwash psychosis
 

argve

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I never punched holes in mine and banks didn't mention anything about it in their instruction set (which I did actually read before hand and during the installation) I never had oil leakage problems on the top... mine leaked a little from the oil cooler header that got warped or something... I can see where the added holes wouldn't hurt a thing and would be a bennie, but I never seen a problem with mine so I can't raise my hand when asked to vote that it has to be done...
 

zigg

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TTMan

just so I'm clear too. I'm gonna go slow & use lots of words....

Yup, you got it right.

The plug with the square hole in it holds down the valley pan, and the valley drains through the center of the square hole down the back of the engine, in front of(or over) the adapter plate. If that square hole gets plugged, then there is no other place for drainage, and the valley pan could fill up till it overflows into the CDR hole if the grommet isn't great.

I haven't done it, but the holes you punch are through the center of the hole where the CDR goes to open up the baffle plates below to allow better oil drainage.

With the turbo, usually, the blow-by is routed into the intake via one of the valve covers, or via the front of the injection pump timing cover...

Zigg :)
 

Runboy

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Stupid ?

Ok, so the drainage holes in "some" of the valley pan designs are insufficient to handle the volume of oil returning from the turbo. All is making perfect sense to me on this. When oil backs up in the pan, doe it typically overflow out the top of the pan through the CDR Hole and then out the back of the pan through the square drain plug or does this cause leaks in other areas where the pan meets the block?
I have a pretty nasty leak going on back there and see what's going on. Figuring it is either this problem or previous owner did shady job plugging oil pressure sender port when installing turbo.
Mike
 

RLDSL

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Ok, so the drainage holes in "some" of the valley pan designs are insufficient to handle the volume of oil returning from the turbo. All is making perfect sense to me on this. When oil backs up in the pan, doe it typically overflow out the top of the pan through the CDR Hole and then out the back of the pan through the square drain plug or does this cause leaks in other areas where the pan meets the block?
I have a pretty nasty leak going on back there and see what's going on. Figuring it is either this problem or previous owner did shady job plugging oil pressure sender port when installing turbo.
Mike

Basically, from what I've been able to figure out, is if you hav a stock valley pan on a factory non turbo engine, or an earlier replacement valley pan, chances are there may not be enough drainage. If it was a factory turbo engine vally pan, or a later replacement from certain manufacturers ( Like Felpro, they no longer make two different valley pans, they only make the turbo style one which has enough drainage, for both aplications ) then drainage shouldn't be a problem ( unless of course, you have a dried up gromit in the vally pan, then it's going to leak no matter what )

Clear as mud :D

---------Robert
 

ttman4

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Basically, from what I've been able to figure out, is if you hav a stock valley pan on a factory non turbo engine, or an earlier replacement valley pan, chances are there may not be enough drainage. If it was a factory turbo engine vally pan, or a later replacement from certain manufacturers ( Like Felpro, they no longer make two different valley pans, they only make the turbo style one which has enough drainage, for both aplications ) then drainage shouldn't be a problem ( unless of course, you have a dried up gromit in the vally pan, then it's going to leak no matter what)Clear as mud :D ---------Robert
From way I understand it all, this pretty well sums it up.
( unless of course, you have a dried up gromit in the vally pan, then it's going to leak no matter what )

But the dried up, wore out grommet business still frets me....from my experience of dumping carwash water into the crankcase via the valley grommet....I was lucky!!!

When I think about all the times before I found my "shot" grommet...the narley spraycans of degreasers, brake cleaners, Carol's Palmolive & Tide, slopping diesel & other secret mixtures all round over engine & into valley pan to sit & soak before I "bath'er"....& how probably no telling how much of this stuff dribbled down & into it.....Man, these things gotta be tough!!!:eek: :eek:
 

SKimballC

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then drainage shouldn't be a problem ( unless of course, you have a dried up gromit in the vally pan, then it's going to leak no matter what )

Clear as mud :D

---------Robert

Word. I have no leakage with my truck now with a new grommet and non swiss cheesed valley pan. Grommets are your friends.
 

ttman4

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I might get 2 of my boys back over here to "shoot" some holes thru there. It'd quick & simple....:D
Few yr ago those two were out targeting. Both were getting in truck & one of 'em shot his '66 Ford pu thru floorboard, bellhousing, torque converter, etc with his "unloaded" .243....
I guess they didn't learn because same thing happened to both couple years later....except the other one shot his thru firewall & rt bank head on his '86 Chevy Pu....
Wonder we managed to get all 4 boys grown.....:eek:
 

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