Noob question #2643

[laserjock]

So I'm working out my turbo plumbing. I've about got it all figured out except the turbo drain. I'm not in love with the idea of just extending the banks drain tube. I think the tube and grommet thing is a little hokey. Here is the valley pan.

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The stupid question listed above is what is the second smaller hole for? The big hole is the CDR hole. It came with the plug you can see there. I'd like to switch to a positive AN connection. I was considering an oring connection with the nut for it tacked to the valley pan. Can I use the smaller hole or does it not drain to the pan?

 

[Hydro-idi]

The small hole has a hollow bolt to keep the valley pan firmly mounted. The bolt is also hollow to drain any fluids from the valley and dumps behind the engine.

 

[crash-harris]

Oh crap. I always thought it was a plug (at least on the N/A engines). The top of my valley pan is NASTY, even after I cleaned it up while working around there. Pulled 2" solid chunks of...something off of it and there's still lots of small stuff there too.

 

[laserjock]

Hmm. I wonder if the best route is to mod the plug with a fitting and JB weld it in. Hmm.

 

[crash-harris]

Didn't Brian post something like that awhile back? I thought it was in your build thread, but maybe in his

IIRC, it was an AN fitting with an o-ring and a nut. Would be a great place/reason to use one. I'd definitely use red loctite on the nut though.

 

[laserjock]

We talked about that a while back. Yes. They are called face seal fittings. I've used lots of them. Red loctite ha. I prefer Mig tight. Like I said, tack the nut to the pan. It wont fall out. [emoji6]

 

[IDIoit]

Red loctite ha. I prefer Mig tight. [emoji6]

 

[crash-harris]

Even better I think that'll be the route I go when I go turbo.

 

[riotwarrior]

Lets make sure we speak idiease here folks....face seal fitting is for turbo drain instead of grom.et. the hollow allen head bolt for valley drain should remain open...not closed up with jb or anything...this allows schmeg to drain out back of block and down over top of starter and trans etc.

 

[The Warden]

Oh crap. I always thought it was a plug (at least on the N/A engines). The top of my valley pan is NASTY, even after I cleaned it up while working around there. Pulled 2" solid chunks of...something off of it and there's still lots of small stuff there too.

Not uncommon, especially on N/A engines...when I took my top end apart back in '04, I found the remains of a squirrel's nest tucked behind the intake certainly explained the bite marks on the glow plug wires!!

 

[laserjock]

Yes the engine I'm mocking up with has so much muck on it I couldn't see the drain bolt.

 

[icanfixall]

Well now that we have this "extra hole figured out.. Do not block it off with anything. It must be open to drain off any fluids that collect in the valley pan. that "bolt type nut that tightens down the back of the valley pan has the square 3/8 drive hex in it to tighten or loosen it. It is flanged so it will crush the copper seal built into the valley pan. BTW those bolt plug type nuts are no longer available from Ford. Many years back I learned Ford had a few left. So I purchased the last 15% of what they have. I felt if any members lost this one of a kind fitting I could help them out. Have not helped anyone yet. Without this fitting you will never get a proper seal on the pan.
The design is rudimentary at best. the rear of the block is designed so the valley pan fluids will flow out ONLY to the passenger side of the bellhousing. then it drips down over the starter and makes a huge mess. The casting is channeled that way and it really is a bad idea. You do not want water or fluids collecting in the valley pan. A bad seal for the CDR will allow the water or fluids to leak into the oil pan. When I installed my Banks turbo oil drain in this CDR valley pan I first used plenty of RTV on the pan to grommet seal. You know that cut in the grommit. then applied a small amount to the grommet at the install area of the pan. Then a good amount around the tube oil drain back from the turbo down low enough that it was spread around the grommet as I installed it. 9 years and no leaks so it must be working well.

 

[riotwarrior]

. .....that "bolt type nut.... that tightens down the back of the valley pan has the square 3/8 drive hex ........

Bolt type nut....3/8 square drive hex

Gary

@icanfixall

What are you smoking?

 

[IDIoit]

in common core math, isnt square and hex the same thing?

 

[riotwarrior]

in common core math, isnt square and hex the same thing?

Maybe thats common core engineering...