No start, again ('86 6.9)

flexneck

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at first i just wanted to add to previous thread, but since i am pretty convinced my current situation is not electricity -related, i might as well start a fresh one:

truck will not start cold, no matter how long i glow. ether doesn't do it either. i have fuel weeping at the top of the injectors when i crack the lines, and all glowplugs work. the last time it ran, it had had a hard time starting cold, but it did catch - then it ran fine all day, warm starts were no problem. the next day it stopped starting completely.

suggestions?

once again desperate
flex
 
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towcat

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Does it fire up briefly and die? Or nothing at all?
I don't have enough info to give a definite course of action yet.
have you done the clear PVC line yet? If not, install clear PVC hose (1/4" iirc) from the filter return barb to the return line cap on the injector. I have a hunch since your plugs are working and you have fuel coming out at the injectors, your problem may be air intrusion causing fuel drainback overnight. Best way to diagnose that problem is to do the PVC hose.
 

suv7734

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Flex,

Another question would also be how fast is it turning over? The general rule of thumb is if you can count the revolutions of the fan it's too slow. I may be out to Van. on Monday, if you're going to be around shoot me a PM.
 

flexneck

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sorry, should clarify:

i have capped the return-line from the fuel-filter, just in case - so the fuel-filter is full & pressurized, even now, days later.
also, it turns over real nice, after i replaced the starter when i cooked the old one in my previous episode of trouble.

suv7734: i appreciate the offer - however, i am at work til 'bout 5pm, and the stoopid truck is sitting on the street, so i dont expect anybody except myself to be mucking around with a flash-light..
 
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Compu Doc

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How long does the glow plug light stay on for?

Did you try plugging the block heater in a few hours before trying to start?
 

flexneck

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glowplugs are manual, so they stay on as long as i want. (never more than 15 secs at a time, i have learned this the hard way, a few times in a row.)

i have tested each and every individual plug on its own wire, with all the other ones connected, and each and every one is fine.

block heater is NFG.

flex
 

fordcord

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are you ohming the glow plugs while they are connected if so you need to check each one unplugged
 

flexneck

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i assume you mean measuring the resistance of the individual plug by the way of ohms? i have done that too, but i am at a point where i have removed each plug, connected it to its own wire, grounded it and made sure it actually gets hot. so, again, i am convinced that my glowplugs are working as they should.
 

hesutton

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It should at least run for a few seconds with a short spray of ether in the intake. How cold is it? Fuel's not gelling is it? I would certainly get a new block heater element. If the glow plugs are working, but it still isnt' starting...I'm thinking you have an air leak as towcat refered to above. The most likely source for a leak are the plastic fuel return caps and their connecting lines. But, air/fuel leaks can be anywhere a long the fuel system.

Heath
 

Diesel JD

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Its either the IP has taken a gulp of air or it has died on you, been there done that in both cases. If you had even 1 or two good glow plugs with a manual swithc you'd get a start if everything else was right. The only other possibility I can think of is that it's in fact electrical and the fuel shutoff solenoid is stuck shut=no fuel. You have driven this thing recently and it ran good once running, so we know the motor's not dead, you should have compression, obviously you have no problem with the batteries or starter or a free path of air to the intake so you should again have heat and compression... fuel? You say the injectors are weeping at the top with the nut off? That may mean you have fuel but it may not either. To be sure, you have to observe the injectors while the engien is cranking, you should see bubbling or small micro squirts coming through the looseneed injector nuts, or a slow drizzle down by the leakoff Ts. If not, you aren't getting fuel and what you're seeing is residual from the leakoff tees from the last time it did run. If you don't have fuel as described above, your injectors don't have fuel, either because the pump is dead or its air locked. You need to bleed the air out of the system crank the motor over with the injectors loosened and glow plugs off no more than 15-20 seconds at a time followed by a 2 minute plus cooldown, before 15-20 secs cranking again. If the pump is good and you don't have any massive air locks or leaks, you should get fuel everywhere within a few cycles of this, when you do, tighten all the injs back down, heat the glow plugs and crank until it goes. You'll need to rev and feather the throttle a bit till it smooths out when it does go. If you still have problems you'll need to loosen the IP inlet line, crank till you ahve fuel there, loosen the lines(at least the ones you can easily reach) on the back of the IP and bleed those for a few cycles and repeat the standard bleeding procedure. If even that doesn't work, the pump either has a dead fuel shutoff solenoid or is worn out of tolernaces. Good luck, a bit of help and another truck to jump you, jumpbox/battery charger is a real good idea.
 

Agnem

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Just remember, you should get white smoke out of the tailpipe if you have fuel to it, but no glow plugs. If your not getting any smoke, then the glow plugs are not the problem.
 

flexneck

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ok, just did another round of sidewalk wrenching - bled all the injector lines, checked the glowplugs (they come on, red hot and all) - i do have white smoke at the pipe when i crank it, and it *nearly* fired a few times (with and without ether). however, no real start. but, what i did notice is that there is fuel underneath the IP, not a lot, but a sheen on top of the engine. it seems that its seeping from the little piston at the bottom of the pump that pushes the diaphragm on the side of the pump. does this indicate a faulty pump? or am i just getting paranoid?
 

Agnem

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If your pump is leaking fuel, all bets are off! You may have injection, but the timing could be way off, hence no start. Time to get another pump if your advance piston is leaking (which sounds to be the case).
 

flexneck

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damn. sounds like a death sentence for this truck...what i heard IP's aint exactly cheep. but thanks for the hint, it would explain ALOT of my problems i have been having for the last couple of months.
 

dieselutheran2

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I suggest finding a local (or closest) stanadyne rebuilder/dealer/shop. Find out from them how much it costs to bench test the IP. There are several companies via ebay that sell IP's for around $275-$350, you'll need to send in your old IP for a core refund. A bench test at the nearest stanadyne dealer in the bay area of california cost $165. If I continue having no start problems with my 6.9l it will be more cost effective to buy a reman than bench test a possibly bad IP and end up replacing it anyway. Just a couple thoughts,
 
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