no fuel coming from IP lines

jrisingmoon

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Posts
224
Reaction score
0
Location
Pensacola
is the easiest explanation why no fuel is coming out of the IP lines has to do with there's a lot of air in the system? I static timed it last week so I think that accounts for most of it. There are probably a few air leaks in the system, too, so that's my chief theory until more evidence comes in.

Any other possibilities I don't see? I have a gp button but haven't tried to burn the gps until I get some fuel out of the injector lines first.
 

Mr_Roboto

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2005
Posts
1,721
Reaction score
6
Location
Elyria, near Cleveland Ohio
Have you bled all the air out of the fuel filter assembly yet? You have to have pressurized fuel through the filter to the IP for the IP to prime itself. The IP will not pump air, and the lift pump cannot pump fuel into the filter assembly if it is full of pressurized air.

I put a clip-on tire chuck on the schraeder valve on the filter head, then crank till clear fuel comes out. Then take off the air chuck and you are ready to pump fuel through the IP. Make sure the accelerator is wide open when purging air from the injector lines.
 

jrisingmoon

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Posts
224
Reaction score
0
Location
Pensacola
I attached a clear hose from the lift pump to the filter and there are tiny bubbles in it while cranking. fuel pours out of the schrader valve now. It looks like fuel is trying to come out of the #8 injector line at the injector but not enough to get my hopes up yet. There is fuel coming out of the IP return line, though.
 

jrisingmoon

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Posts
224
Reaction score
0
Location
Pensacola
what a second. More pressure will probably build if I tighten down the #7 and #8 injector line nuts and then schrader the rest of the air out. it's dark out, what till tomorrow...
 

jrisingmoon

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Posts
224
Reaction score
0
Location
Pensacola
FSS? Fast _____ Solenoid? Is that solenoid inside the IP or is that the solenoid on the fast idle bracket? Or am I thinking of something else?

I'm not sure if I do or not. I wanted to make sure the fuel system checked out before moving on to the electrical, which is what I plan on doing tomorrow. The fuel system seems to check out. Don't know if the fuel-water separator is letting in any air, though.
 

The Warden

MiB Impersonator
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Posts
7,356
Reaction score
35
Location
Fog Bless Pacifica (CA)
jrisingmoon said:
FSS? Fast _____ Solenoid? Is that solenoid inside the IP or is that the solenoid on the fast idle bracket?
FSS = Fuel Shutoff Solenoid. It's an internal solenoid, and is the forward-most terminal on the driver's side of the injector pump. This is what shuts the engine down when yuo turn the key off; when that terminal does not have 12 volts, the injector pump doesn't pump fuel. Pulling it is sort of like pulling the coil wire on a g@$ engine...

If it's real quiet, you can jump the terminal and hear the solenoid click. If it doesn't click, there's an internal problem in the pump...if it clicks and you don't have 12 volts at the wire, there's a wiring problem...
 

jrisingmoon

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Posts
224
Reaction score
0
Location
Pensacola
So it has two terminals on it? By forward most terminal, you mean the one closest to the radiator?

I know when I pressed the button I'd hear the gp solenoid click, but I don't remember hearing any clicking while starting. I know there's power going to the gps since I put a test light on four of eight connectors on the harness and the light shined when I pressed the button each time. I have yet to check the FSS, though. I suspect (hope) it's a wiring problem since it feels kind flimsy and could break off. will find out later today... Please don't let it be the IP...
 

argve

Resident Fruitcake
Joined
Dec 11, 2004
Posts
7,510
Reaction score
32
Location
Gwynneville, Indiana
Yep the fuel shut off solenoid is the terminal closest to the rad - it's got a red wire with a green stripe (boy that's rattln' the ole memory :eek: )

This red wire should have 12V DC on it anytime the key is in the "ON" position. If you don't have power here then she won't fire. Then if you do have power on this wire connect and disconnect this wire while listening or placing your hand on the top cover of the injection pump you should feel or hear the solenoid engage - if you don't feel or hear it then it means that the solenoid has gone bad and needs replaced. Some of the solenoids you can really hear and others it's pretty faint but the "feel" method has never failed me but even it's sort of faint because that solenoid doesn't throw out a lot of force.
 

jrisingmoon

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Posts
224
Reaction score
0
Location
Pensacola
If the solenoid is bad then can it be replaced or does the whole IP have to be replaced? How much are we talking if it's the solenoid?
 

jrisingmoon

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Posts
224
Reaction score
0
Location
Pensacola
The front terminal on mine has a red with a green stripe and then a red with a dotted white stripe on it. At some point the two wires are crimped to a single wire, at a fusible link. Then that wire runs to the passenger solenoid.

Does the back terminal need to be plugged in as well? Its a yellow wire. I guess it has to do with the solenoid also---

It's a wiring problem. Turned the key to ON, ran a test light from the front terminal to the red wire. No glow. Now it's a matter of locating the problem. What is the red with green stripe wire connected with? Could it be the control switch harness?
 
Last edited:

aaklingler

Registered User
Joined
Jan 9, 2005
Posts
602
Reaction score
0
Location
Winfield, PA
Do you have power in any of the wires that can reach the front terminal of the ip. Run a wire temp. from battery to ip.
 

icanfixall

Official GMM hand model
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Posts
25,858
Reaction score
673
Location
West coast
Just jump the fss (front terminal) from the positive side of the battery and that will supply the power to start it. To stop the motor just remove the jumper wire and then figure out why its not hot when you are trying to start it.
 

jrisingmoon

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Posts
224
Reaction score
0
Location
Pensacola
aaklingler said:
Do you have power in any of the wires that can reach the front terminal of the ip. Run a wire temp. from battery to ip.

ran a temp wire from the battery to the IP. Tried to start it, so far nothing. Batteries probably need charging and the oil needed heating. It was around freezing last night and the van hasn't started in several months. I can't feel any click or hear anything from the FSS when I apply power to it. Beginning to think it might be the FSS. If a jump wire with fully charged batteries and warm oil isn't going to do it, not sure what else there's left to do. Will bleed out anymore air tomorrow as well. I'll use ether or WD40.
 

icanfixall

Official GMM hand model
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Posts
25,858
Reaction score
673
Location
West coast
If you use either make sure you disable the glow plug circut. If the either ignites off the hot glow plugs you may push out a rod or head gasket. Its VERY ******* these motors using either and the glow system at the same time. If you don't agree with this let us all know how things turn out. Pictures man... We like pictures...
 

Forum statistics

Threads
91,345
Posts
1,130,757
Members
24,143
Latest member
Cv axle
Top