New to this, first WMO batch

[sandfantom]

Just thought I would chime in here and let those of you interested about my system and results.
I have been doing much research and reading on WMO blending and decided I would try and see if it worked for me. I built an upflow processor out of 3 30 gallon barrels, $10 apiece from the barrel place in town. I filter through a 10 micron whole house filter from my settling tank into my blending tank. I then pump the mix through a 10 micron water absorb filter and a 2 micron absolute fuel filter. My pump runs about 2 gallons per minute, so with 20 gallons of W85 in my blending tank I fugure I am filtering this 4 or five time in 40 or so minutes of run time.

My initial oil mixed in my settling tank is mixed with 10% RUG to help with the junk settle out. I work a 12 hour shift, so I let it set for 2 or more days to settle.

My first batch was a 85% WMO and 15% RUG mixed with about 10 gallons of D2. Starting and running seemed not much different other that running quieter and maybe a little more power. I then added 10 more gallons of my W85 mix with about 2 more gallons of D2. Takes a little more to start and smokes at idle. Engine runs quieter yet and by the seat of the pants dyno, has noticable more power and lower egts.

So far I am happy with the results and am really thinking about getting a PA centrifuge for the final cleaning. I did let a final filtered sample set and
settle for about 3 days and had no sediment in the bottom of a glass.

Let me know what you think.

sandfantom

 

[ohnny]

Mind if I ask what truck/motor you run this in? Thanks.

 

[towcat]

if both of you guys can put a little info on your trucks in your sig line, that would lessen questions in the future

 

[Brad S.]

sandfantom,
Another wmo user. Looks like you've got a good system going and the truck is running good on it.
When we've talked about filtering it is job no. 1, in fact I don't think a person could over filter.(the way most of us filter the wmo)
Kinda keep track of your outside temps & how easy or hard it starts with wmo.
Just keep listening and watching the truck for anything that might wear quicker.

 

[towcat]

I'm doing the jet fuel(kerosene with toxic additives) and WMO blends. I have a good supply of both mixes, so I run it at 50/50. on my filtering rig, I have a 30psi pressure gauge to monitor the thickness of the feul as it is pushed through the 3 filters. I've found when blending, if I'm pushing 1-2 psi on a mix, the truck seems happiest.

 

[sandfantom]

Here is my info, sorry, I thought I had it in my sig:

2003 F250 Superduty Shortbed Crewcab 4x4
7.3 just rebuilt
Rosewood budget stage 2 injector rebuilds
PHP 6 position chip
4" Banks exhaust, Wicked wheel
Adrenalin HPOP, FRX
EPV delete, IAH delete

I just did rebuild the engine and probably don't have but 8k miles on it yet. All seems good but the smoke. I would think with a new motor the smoke would be minimal.

 

[sandfantom]

sandfantom,
Another wmo user. Looks like you've got a good system going and the truck is running good on it.
When we've talked about filtering it is job no. 1, in fact I don't think a person could over filter.(the way most of us filter the wmo)
Kinda keep track of your outside temps & how easy or hard it starts with wmo.
Just keep listening and watching the truck for anything that might wear quicker.

Had to drive the truck to work this morning with the outside temp being 25f. Started hard with about 30 seconds of GP. I think my batteries are a little weak. Doesn't seem to start as nice as on D2. Maybe need more RUG. Kero is to expensive here.

Towcat.....this bothers me as when I am blending with my mix at 30f to 40f I am running about 30 psi pressure through my filters. Is this not good?

 

[Brad S.]

Sandfantom,
The RUG part I really cant talk about to much only because I havent used much in my mixes. In my mixes it seemed like I was losing a little mpg, plus I like the ease of using one item to mix the wmo,(diesel being that one item)
I still want to try some of the stuff Devilish talked about, stuff that print shops use to clean the equipment.
If you can keep it plugged in that would help with the hard starting on wmo mixes. I try to switch over to "clean" diesel for morning start ups on mine.

 

[leswhitt]

Had to drive the truck to work this morning with the outside temp being 25f. Started hard with about 30 seconds of GP. I think my batteries are a little weak. Doesn't seem to start as nice as on D2. Maybe need more RUG. Kero is to expensive here.

Towcat.....this bothers me as when I am blending with my mix at 30f to 40f I am running about 30 psi pressure through my filters. Is this not good?

I run about 17% RUG and when my glow plugs are working, winter starts only take mildly longer than diesel starts. My theory is that since oil burns cooler than diesel, the engine is relying more on the compression of the fuel than it is the burning of it. That being said, I'm going to up my winter mix to a full 21% RUG and see if that makes a difference.

As for your filters, I've found that if I suck through them instead of pushing through them, I don't have to worry about blowing them up and sending bad stuff downstream. Plus, it seems like less crud gets through when I do it that way.

 

[sandfantom]

I hope that I have got some of my starting problems fixed. Checked my batteries and one of them had a dead cell. Two new Interstate batteries and off we go.

Friday nite filled up the truck with D2 to top it off. About 12 gallons. Noticed a lot of smoke a idle. I have read that some guys have a lot of problems with this after running W85 for a while but mine seems to have started right away.

Any suggestions to why and how to remedy this issue

 

[leswhitt]

My theory is that since oil burns cooler than diesel, the white smoke is a result of combustion temps being too low. Some have fixed it by either advancing the timing or running more RUG. Are you sure that you're using a full 15% RUG? I'd try 20% and see if that helps, if not then the timing might be the way to go. After the truck is fully warmed up, does the smoke persist?

 

[sandfantom]

I would say I am pretty close to 15% RUG. I start with 10% RUG in my settling tank to kindof help with the separation of the junk. I really think I need to make a cone for my settling tank in the future. Then in my blending tank add more RUG to around 15%. I guess I can try 20% and see.

The oil I am using is a mix of about everything, 5w-30, atf, hydraulic oil and gear oil so I may be thicker than what I think. I haven't done a viscosity test yet and maybe that should be on my priority list.

I took a 100 mile trip yesterday on mostly D2 after making a few WOT runs to try to get rid of the smoke. After getting home I had my SO open the door and look for smoke, she said she saw none. It was smoking pretty bad at idle before the WOT runs.

I still think that the PA diesel centrifuge might be a good option for a final step in my process, but my mix seems pretty clean right now. I just did rebuild the engine and really don't want to screw anything up with it.

I have a Phoenix chip from Power Hungry Performance and have emailed Cody about making a tune. Here is his response:

"The only thing that is done with waste oil is the injection pressure is raised slightly to get the more viscous fuel out of the nozzles and the SOI is increased even farther to start the combustion process a little quicker (slower burning fuel)."


If he can do this on one of my tunes I might just go ahead and do that.

I am brewing another batch as we speak and the temp is getting warmer, that should help.

Would running some other thinning agent with the RUG help......just asking.

Thanks for the advice

sandfantom

 

[leswhitt]

I think the hydraulic oil and gear oil may be the culprits for increased smoke, they're quite a bit thicker than everything else. For substantial amounts of hydraulic and gear oil, I'd definitely blend with at least 20% RUG and I'd probably run a mix of that and diesel in my tanks as well.

As far as other thinning agents, I don't have any experience using anything else but folks have also used acetone and kerosene. Being that RUG is cheaper than both of those, I just stick with RUG.

 

[subway]

wow all the hydraulic oil i have run was thinner and needed less thinning to run. most hydraulic oil is in the 10-20 wt range. gear oil is some seriously thick stuff though in the 90-140 wt range.

 

[Boost_Happy]

If you can get your hands on mineral oil, that stuff works good, has good flow at cold weather and it doesnt have any additives for the most part which means less ash and smoke... my buddy has a 99 24v cummins p-pump and runs on 100% wmo heated and that has been the best oil so far as far as smoking.

I have found these newer engines dont like wmo much.... especially common rails. I ran a twin tank setup on my 05 cummins and started having smoking issues and couldnt get rid of them which in the end i ended up putting injectors in the truck after 1000 miles, but this may be due poor filtering in the beginning. I'll have to post some pics of my new oil processor