make sure the tail shaft is the same, some come with slip yokes, some come with a flange
New to powerstroke world, and a lot of issues.
- Thread starter warhog
- Start date
fordf350man
Full Access Member
I pretty much bench bleed it on the vehicle. Mount in in the vehicle and just run the the tubes into the master cylinder. Then you can sit in the vehicle and pump the pedal. Makes it much easier.
changeable though no? went through that with some jeep transfer cases back in the day.
i havnt looked into that yet. i have a spare transfer, i was jjust gonna slap that one on..lol
i have a flanged transfer in my 63 ranchero, shes on the back burner for right now, need to finish up a customers car, and then do some body work on my van
79jasper
Chickenhawk
I wanna say no.
Seems the slip yoke one is more common.
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Seems the slip yoke one is more common.
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now that i think of it, that flange is most likely splined, may be as simple as removing the flange, cutting the threads off and installing a slip yoke.
not positive.
not positive.
brokeasajoke
Registered User
Been there done it. Since it is a 1356 i would open it up anyway. U can easly swap shaft out once open and its a good idea to check and see if the pump arm has worn the case bad. An arm that keeps the pump from spinning on the shaft is held by a raised casting on the case and is known to wear through. Change the shifter fork bushings too since they are known to wear just a few bucks like $6 or something i paid for mine. The tailhousing just bolts on so they can be swaped. I was thinkin that the flange shafts came on broncos. Yhey are not sifficult to work on once u get them open afterwards you will be a 1356 pro. Note: a little ball bearing holds the worm gear on the shaft in the tailhousing. It will roll away to a blackhole ot the bermuda triangle. Dont ask how i know. If bits the same shaft i would put it in and run it. 1356s are plentiful. Those that had a pump failure will ruin the planetary gear setup causing a grinding noise when coasting. Wear causes shaft to slip out of splines in planetary
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thanks guy, good information there. And i thought so. I know i've swapped em before on my jeeps back in the day...given it's different cases, and you never do know what one Company is going to do compared to the next. I never did like slip yokes when i was jeepn, they had a tendency of causing issues once you get to a certain suspension height and start flexing, go figure. I got a yard near work that has two of em, $300 a piece. I'll pick one up and see how it is.
Alright so i'm ordering up all the parts i need all at once...along with the main stuff the gauges aren't working. The two i absolutely want to get going before putting it together and test driving it around are the pyro and engine temp. The pyro is ALL over the place. Just turn the key to on and it sweeps and stays near maxed out (even with engine not running), coolant temp doesn't read at all, always cold. Should I assume it's just the sensors themselves? or is there a morefor sure way of testing them.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Yeah, you can check the resistance on the factory temp gauge sender. Not sure what it should read, but should change from hot to cold.
Could be the thermostat also. If you change it, I recommend the 205° one.
Far as pyro, I don't know. Some can be tested. Make sure it has its own dedicated ground wire.
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Could be the thermostat also. If you change it, I recommend the 205° one.
Far as pyro, I don't know. Some can be tested. Make sure it has its own dedicated ground wire.
Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk
madpogue
Full Access Member
Engine temp gauge - there are two sensors/senders up near the front. One is a variable resistor for the gauge, the other is a thermocouple switch for the light on the "diesel-only" panel. I always forget which is which. Turn the key to RUN, disconnect each sender one at a time and ground the wire, and look at the dash. Grounding one of them should turn on the light, and grounding the other should peg the gauge past full. If neither one pegs the gauge, then (most likely) the gauge head is bad. It's just a segment of the cluster, and can be removed/replaced separately (just pulls out). If one pegs the gauge, that suggests the gauge head is good, and the sender is bad. Whichever wire you grounded, that corresponding sender is the one to replace.
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