New to IDI; here's my truck

[Russ]

YEP>>> Put the pyro in the manifold. You want it as close to the engine as possible to get accurate readings(that's why you got the gauge right?)

 

[dsblack]

My Pyro is about 2-3" down the pipe that crosses over from one side to the other. The closer to the engine the better.
I would still concider doing the IP and injectors. Also, make sure you are running a fuel additive of some kind to lube the system.

 

[sign_man]

Highly incorrect about the transmission sensor. That is a BAND ADJUSTMENT! Don't mess with it! Tranny temp sensors need to go in the pan, not in the case.

 

[Darrin Tosh]

That is a BAND ADJUSTMENT! Don't mess with it! Tranny temp sensors need to go in the pan, not in the case.

Sounds like a man with experience right there, as am I, It is a Band adjustment and the bolt is about 2" long, leave it alone!

As far as the pyro porbe, take a look at the second pic that you posted showing the downpipe, there is a flat spot on the DP. Drill and tap the probe right there. that is what it is for.

BTW, Real nice truck and a great deal! Congrats! The turbo and Gearvendors set up is worth the purchase price alone.

Also I never shift my GV when coming to a stop. I just let it do its thing. I usually have it turned of on city driving and kick it on when hitting the highway..

Good Luck, and welcome to the site

 

[fanbrain]

So I just tap a hole in the side of the tranny pan? Do I drop it first or just go for it?

I posted the wrong picture of the tranny. There is another smaller slightly visible plug to the left of the band adjustment that I was talking about. I just put the sensor in that one. I can move it if I need to (It was the location described by the "A pillar gauge pod install instructions page").

While I was underneath the truck today, I noticed a part was disconnected from the transmission. It wasn't the linkage from the selector, but I think it goes up to the throttle/IP location. I thought it was a kickdown/downshift linkage, but the 3/2 shift works fine around town. Also, I reconnected it and drove around. The throttle response was better and I seemed to have more power. Am I just imagining things? Or maybe It has something to do with the torque converter. Again, it's just the seat of my pants prediction, but it doesn't seem so sluggish off the line anymore.

 

[tonkadoctor]

Drop the pan before drilling and tapping it, last thing you need in a tranny is extra metal shavings floating around. Good opportunity to change the filter while you're in there too.

 

[sign_man]

I see the plug you are referring to and can't tell you for sure if that is a good location. In a nutshell, the sensor needs to be immersed in ATF. If that location threads up and doesn't interfere with any linkage, internal or external, and is below the fluid level, go for it. If it were me, with the pan off, I'd look at the end of the dipstick to see what the level of the fluid is inside the case. If that doesn't work, there are adapters to fit the sender to the pan. Do not tap the pan itself, as it is way to thin to hold the sensor. I just checked Summit racings site and saw that AutoMeter has a manifold for a sender you can splice into the cooling lines for $40. If you go this route, make sure it is the line that has not been cooled yet. To determine 100% which way the fluid moves, disconnect a line and bump the key. It's messy, but effective. To me, this would be the easy way out because you won't be drilling about a 5/8" hole in your pan, which if not done correctly could lead to a leak. Not correctly includes drilling a big hole in sheet metal with a regular drill bit. The hole will not be round and if it catches a burr on exit it will probably twist and warp the pan enough to cause @#$%$%$& leaks. Find an electrician or a sheet metal man that will let you borrow a Unibit, aka a step drill, for the hole. They cost about $40, so if you have to buy one, may as well have gotten the AutoMeter setup and saved the headaches and the expense of a fluid change. Good luck,

Phillip

 

[Darrin Tosh]

I posted the wrong picture of the tranny. There is another smaller slightly visible plug to the left of the band adjustment that I was talking about. I just put the sensor in that one. I can move it if I need to (It was the location described by the "A pillar gauge pod install instructions page").

Youre all set, leave it there, I was reading up on this awhile ago and that is what that port is for.

If you want to double check it, find someone that has a laser temp gun, take the truck for a long hot drive and watch the trans temp guage. Stop the truck and shoot the trans, lines and pan in a few placed and see if it matches the temp guage.

Mine is in ln line like sigh man was talking about.

Later!