New to IDI; here's my truck

[fanbrain]

I bought a 1986 F-350 dually today. 6.9 IDI, ATS turbo, automatic with Gear Vendor under/overdrive. It has about 130k and I got it for $2400.

It's my first diesel, and I have some questions. (I have read almost all of the technical documents and the faq's.)

1. When running, there are bubbles of fuel coming from the base of one of the injectors (frontmost on drivers side). Is this from the copper o-rings? Or something else? Could this cause fuel to collect in the valley? Or would that be from the IP leaking?

2. I drove it around for a while this evening, and I went out a few minutes ago to take pictures of the bubbling fuel, but the glow plug light didn't light up and the truck wouldn't start. Any ideas?

3. The C-6 transmission seems like it's in great shape, along with the rest of the truck. It sure shifts hard though... Is there any way to tell if there is a shift kit installed? The shift indicator is also stuck at neutral.

4. The catalytic converter has been taken off, and there is a barrel-type muffler that looks like a magnaflow. I can't really hear the turbo, and I'm thinking of cutting the muffler out. I took pictures of the downpipe so feel free to comment on that. It's a beast of a truck and I want it to sound like one. Maybe it's a good candidate for a single stack on the passenger side? It looks like a single 2 1/2-3" pipe all the way back.

5. What would a free-flowing intake do for me? I live in the desert, and I need all the cool air I can get.

I have good hopes for this truck. It's my first truck, and first diesel. I'm excited.

6. PS- what size tires came with the truck when it was new? It has 215/85/16's all the way around. Shouldn't the front tires a wider series than the duals? I have some 235/85/16's sitting around. Would that be a better match for the front?

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[fanbrain]

Here's the chokepipe

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the leaky injector location

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the engine bay

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and last, a front view of the truck (I haven't cleaned it at all- could use some shining)

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[tonkadoctor]

First and foremost welcome to oilburners, you found the right spot for the IDI.

See if I can answer these questions for you.

1. The bubbles could be the copper washers under the injectors. Good chance the injector return lines, caps and hoses need to be replaced and the injector installation kit ($25 - $60 depending on where you get them) will come with copper washers as well as caps, o-rings and new hose.
2. Probably losing fuel prime (see#1 for the return lines sucking air). If the engine is warm it will start easily without glow plugs. The Glow plug light not coming on could be a burnt out bulb in the dash. Check the glow plug solenoid for operation with a voltmeter and go from there.
3. Can't help you much here. The indicator staying in nuetral is probably a problem in the steering column.
4. These engines didn't have Cats. A turbocharged engine sounds good with straight pipes, not too load but will bark when you put your foot in it. I'm not big on stacks but if you do, go dual 4" for the looks. A single stack looks goofy.
5. Put a Homemade Tymar set up on it. Turbo diesels like to breath.
6. You have the stock tire size on it. They did not come with bigger tires in the front than the rear. Same all around. IIRC the 235/85/16 was an optional size. Both of my duallies have the 235's on them

Hope this helps. Fire away with any other questions and we'll do the best we can to answer them.

 

[icanfixall]

Thats a right fine looking truck. First off those injectors look like they are the original set and if they are they need to be replaced. They only last about 120,000 miles or there abouts. The turbo and gear splitter are worth more than you paid for the entire truck. You got a steal. Looks like your in Utah and so is Yout turbo builder. Try loosening the hard line on top of the injector (5/8 inch wrench) and then snug up the injector in the head. Its a 1 inch deep socket if I remember correctly. They are set for 35 lbs of torque but just a little more wont hurt but a lot more will hurt them. The hard shifting trans can be adjusted by the vacuum device on the side of the injection pump. Others that have done it will post how to. Again, nice truck...

 

[fanbrain]

So, for new injectors, is it worth it for Stage 1? I'm not going to tow a lot, I would just like some more power. Also I can't find the faq for turning up the pump. I'm going to look into getting some gauges over the weekend.

The Glow plug light not coming on could be a burnt out bulb in the dash. Check the glow plug solenoid for operation with a voltmeter and go from there.

The bulb does work, the truck starts within a couple revolutions of the starter cold, but it just didn't want to start when it was warm. I'm thinking air in the hoses.

Thanks for the help guys, this is going to be fun.

 

[tonkadoctor]

The bulb does work, the truck starts within a couple revolutions of the starter cold, but it just didn't want to start when it was warm. I'm thinking air in the hoses.

Starting fine cold but not hot is a sign of the injection pump going bad. Try pouring cold water over the injection pump next time it won't start hot, 2- 3 qts will usually do. If it fires right up get ready to replace the pump soon. Trick we had to do a lot over in the sandbox on the Humvees when it was 130F in the shade.

 

[reklund]

So, for new injectors, is it worth it for Stage 1? /QUOTE]

NO!

See my thread about leaky DPS injectors. Don't waste your time or money on that stuff. Get yourself a good set of stockers, and either turn your pump up, or replace it with a stocker and turn it up. Then have your truck timed right, and it'll run great. I just went through this on my truck, and found stockers are good enough- just replacing the old ones will bring the performance up noticably! I'm running new Delphi units, but you can also buy new Stanadynes. Either way, they're pretty cheap- mine were only $33 each.

Ryan

 

[argve]

Yep hot start problem is the metering valve in the injection pump sticking. Which means it will need to be replaced...

I would steer away from the stage ones... as posted read the other post then make your decision...

 

[Freight_Train]

Hate to say it but for general useage and towing get a set of G codes and a turbo spec pump.For a first timer I would stick stock and play with that......Later on when you get to be like Me and Travis you can upgrade to the Firehoses.....I need to talk to Ken one day about a set of his Stage 2 or the Flood Gate Stage 3 injectors and a pump to feed them......That is if I can ever get more than 32 hours a week.

 

[Chuckdiesel]

Whats the difference between the codes? I recently replaced my injectors and the orginal ones were BB and so I replaced them with BB injectors. With the various stages does the fuel economy change or is it more for good ole hammer time? I still have my stock pump at 1003k can I get a high proformance pump when its time and get injectors to match later?

 

[Diesel JD]

The Stage 1s, some folks have had good experiences with, but the builder is difficult to communicate with and the spray pattern is not quite right even on good ones. The BB codes are really good I am convinced. You can buy a set of new(not rebuilt) Delphis outright on ebay for $125-200 pretty often, and you certainly need a return line kit. The glow plug light does not come on on 6.9(84-86 system) when the engine is hot, but the no hot start will eventually get you, and it will get worse in the hot weather. Try what tonkadoctor said, except make that lukewarm water instead of cold water. Also get the timing set when you get your new pump, use 1.5 ATDC @1400RPM with the luminosity method or 8.5*ATDC @2000 RPM by the pulse method.. You madea good purchase and we are glad to answer any questions we can to help you. Welcome aboard.

 

[Petri317]

If I were you, I'd buy my fuel system components from a local, reputable diesel shop/retailer. I've been burned by online purchases before, and others on here have as well. Nice truck and Welcome to Oilburners!!!!

 

[fanbrain]

I'm making a list of things to buy.

In order from most pressing to least:

pyro, boost and tranny temp gauges
injector install kit
injectors
turbo calibrated IP
tires

I put some injector cleaner/lubricity fluid in the tank yesterday and now I get lots of white smoke at start and while running. I'm assuming that's normal if the fuel system is dirty. I've done sea foam stuff in my other cars and I got white smoke. Not quite as much, but enough.

I've got some looking around to find where to get air intake parts. What is the big tomato can vacuum can for. Cruise control? Cruise control doesn't work and I probably wouldn't use it anyway, so can I take the cc stuff out to make way for an intake?

Thanks for all the support guys!

 

[hoodshauler]

Hate to say it but for general useage and towing get a set of G codes and a turbo spec pump.For a first timer I would stick stock and play with that......Later on when you get to be like Me and Travis you can upgrade to the Firehoses.....I need to talk to Ken one day about a set of his Stage 2 or the Flood Gate Stage 3 injectors and a pump to feed them......That is if I can ever get more than 32 hours a week.

Johnathan how about getting a truck that is running right before you spend anymore money on extras. I might blow them up but at least i get mine back running.

You know i am just messing with you

 

[tonkadoctor]

Johnathan how about getting a truck that is running right before you spend anymore money on extras. I might blow them up but at least i get mine back running.

You know i am just messing with you

That's gonna leave a mark