New to IDI; here's my truck

dsblack

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Congrats, on the new truck and Welcome!

I would stick with the regular stuff, the stage 1 is more power and if you are not towing much there is not a need for them. I have them, and like them.
I think they have hit the rest on the head. changing the pump and injectors is fairly easy. Get it running again, then take it in for a timing adjustment,
You photo made me miss Utah, Miss Moab about this time of year in all of this rain up here.

Got a good deal, on a good looking, well equiped truck. A few bucks to get it running right, then we will help you spend you money.
 

fanbrain

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Starting fine cold but not hot is a sign of the injection pump going bad. Try pouring cold water over the injection pump next time it won't start hot, 2- 3 qts will usually do. If it fires right up get ready to replace the pump soon. Trick we had to do a lot over in the sandbox on the Humvees when it was 130F in the shade.

Update: I had a chance to check this out tonight. Drove the truck for a while, parked it and went to drive it half hour later. It wouldn't start. I poured some water over the pump, and it started right up.

I don't want to carry jugs of water around and make big messes when I need to start the thing, so I'm looking for a new IP and I'll probably do injectors at the same time. Since I have an ATS non-wastegate turbo, is a stock pump going to give me the fuel delivery I need? If the turbo calibrated pump will be better, are there any other places to get one besides DPS? I think I'm going to stick with stock injectors for now and see if I can get some of this stuff locally.
 

apextrans

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I'm a former IDI'er but I have to chime in here. I had stage 1's & the turbo pump from Ken. While i did have trouble get ahold of him just like everyone else here, his stuff delivers as advertised. The pump & injectors made a big difference in my truck. I like you, didn't tow with it on a regular basis, just wanted a powerful truck. It was a worthwhile investment. If you have a problem, tracking him down will be the problem. Gotta weigh that out for yourself.

The hard shifting could be the gearvendors. I had shift kits in my C-6 and it shifted firm but not hard. Now when the GV would shift to split the gear, it hit HARD. It scared me the first time I felt it shift after install but GV told me it was normal. It never caused me any problems.

I staight piped mine & it sounded great. You'll get alot of whistle with a homemade intake & straight exhaust.

Very nicetruck by the way. Hang around here to learn all you need to know. I knew next to nothing when I got here & have come a long way with everyones help. Welcome to OB!!;p
 

fanbrain

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The hard shifting could be the gearvendors. I had shift kits in my C-6 and it shifted firm but not hard. Now when the GV would shift to split the gear, it hit HARD. It scared me the first time I felt it shift after install but GV told me it was normal. It never caused me any problems.

I noticed this again tonight on a drive. I was showing my wife how the OD worked (It's wired to a switch on the floor right next to the the highbeam switch; in fact it's exactly the same as a highbeam switch. I'll post a picture later) and when I shifted into overdrive, I let off the gas and it was smooth. Slowing down, however, it slammed so hard I thought the tires would chirp and I'd hear metal things bouncing on the ground. I'm glad that's a normal thing and I didn't break anything. Thanks for all the info. I kind of want to straight-pipe it. I want the whistle!!!
 

apextrans

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Here's some pics of my GV install. Im sure it's similar to what you have minus the 4WD
 

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dsblack

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A local injector shop can supply you with a pump, and injectors. Let them know you have a turbo on the truck, and the local one here will cal the pump for the turbo.
Also new injectors are cheap enough, do not mess with the rebuilds. Unless you decide to go with DPS.
 

Diesel JD

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Also you can often snag new"not reman" Lucas or Stanadyne injectors on ebay. The pump is fixing to be junk with that hot start problem so you need a new one. I have no idea if the stock pump will keep up as my ATS non gated turbo has yet to be installed. I like the idea of the DPS pump but you may have a tough time resolving problems with DPS if something goes wrong.
 

fanbrain

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I have no idea if the stock pump will keep up as my ATS non gated turbo has yet to be installed. I like the idea of the DPS pump but you may have a tough time resolving problems with DPS if something goes wrong.

Can anyone confirm if this is the case? Will a stock pump (turned up) keep up with a non wastegated ATS turbo? Is the turbo-spec pump from DPS worth it? I can get a new pump locally for the same price as a DPS turbo pump; which is better? I'm going to stick with stock injectors (new ones of course).
 

argve

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Yes a stock pump will keep up with the turbo. When you get a pump from a local supplier just tell him you have a turbo on it and he will turn up the fuel before you get it - if you forget to tell him or if you just want to turn it up yourself then take the triangle shaped cover off the side of the pump and twist the wick -
 

towcat

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Can anyone confirm if this is the case? Will a stock pump (turned up) keep up with a non wastegated ATS turbo? Is the turbo-spec pump from DPS worth it? I can get a new pump locally for the same price as a DPS turbo pump; which is better? I'm going to stick with stock injectors (new ones of course).
There's plenty of guys here who only turned up the stock pump when installing their turbos and never had an issue. It is physically impossible for the turbo to overpower the pump since the limiting factor of diesels is the feul delivery timing and the amount of feul delivered. All that will happen is you won't produce much black smoke....that's the results of overfeuling. Still not convinced, do yourself and your own sanity a favor and read up on the feedback concerning DPS and ask yourself do you want to go through that grief or not. Lastly, here's a suggestion, if you really want the higher feul delivery volume, go find a 7.3 pump. It delivers 7cc's more(iirc) compared to the 6.9 pump.
 

fanbrain

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I ordered a pyro, boost and trans temp gauge yesterday from egauges.com. I'm going to attempt installing them myself. I ordered the single DIN three gauge insert that goes where the radio goes. The radio is lousy and the speakers are blown plus I don't want the gauges pillar mounted or anywhere else, so I think that is the best spot.

I'm also going to get an IP and injectors this week. Any recommendations? Any of the local guys don't seem to be able to do pop testing or timing, so it looks like the internet is the way to go. Locals are asking $450 for the IP and $40/ea. for the injectors. Are there better deals somewhere else? Does anyone have experience with diesel care & performance? The IP prices seem too good to be true.
 

towcat

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The local price is pretty hard to beat. I usually get mime from Midwest Feul Injection. www.mwfi.com good people there. 30day grace period before zinging you for a core. Otherwise, there is no core deposit.
 

typ4

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Fanbrain, call oregon fuel injection or diesel fuel injection service here in portland, they will ship you what you want and both have fair prices and great warranty. If you want I can be liasion for you with DFIS.
 

fanbrain

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Update: I got some gauges and I'll put them in tomorrow (saturday). I have pictures of where I think the sensors should go.

This is the drivers side of the tranny. I'm thinking it's the plug in the center of the picture. Correct?

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Here is the place where the drivers side exhaust from the manifold meets the passenger side. I was thinking of putting it just after the "Y" so I get a mixed reading of both sides of the engine. Correct?

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The gauges are going where the radio was. Here's a picture of the test fit.

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I also straight piped the truck and I love it. I was worried it would be too loud, but it's barely audible at idle. I have a turn-down tip and I think that helps a lot. Also, there's a really long 8% grade along a mountainside behind my house and for fun I drive down it in 2nd gear. Sounds just like an exhaust brake! It's pretty fun.

I ordered an injector install kit yesterday. I thought I was having a hot start problem, but I've been able to start the truck hot lately. It takes a little bit of cranking, but I'm going to see how much the new lines/o-rings will help before I lay down the cash for injectors/IP. I get white smoke at startup and while accelerating (until it warms up).
 

FordGuy100

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If you put your thermocouple in the Y, I dont think it will be all that accurate. Most guys on here would recomend that you put it in the exhaust manifold. Sure it is easier to put it at the Y, but the EGT's there would be way lower than in the exhaust manifold therefore you will have a hard time guessing what the EGT's are at the cylinder.
 

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