New purchase, HOT MESS 89 F350 dually

[chillman88]

Maybe the new FSS has an internal short?

 

[Selahdoor]

So I’ve been pretty busy with life lately, but really wanted to share this part. I ordered a new fuel shutoff solenoid from Amazon, looked it over and decided it was worth a shot. When I go to remove the old one from IP, I find it rigged with a dime and 8mm socket to stay open. No wonder the key wouldn’t shut it down.. the old solenoid didn’t look burned up or anything but I figured I may as well use the new one. Popped it in, reassembled, and went to fire it up to test it. Well.. as soon as I try and crank it I just see smoke.. the glow plug controller, fss connector, and passenger battery are HOT. I undid the double yellow wires to the glow plug controller and tried again and still smoke from the other two. I called it quits at this point because I had to get somewhere.. but does anyone have any clue what could be going on here?

This is what I would do, were it me.

Remove the wire from the FSS. Isolate that. Tape it up, whatever, don't let it short out anywhere.

Isolate the GP controller. If you think you might need it, set up a manual only, option. But for this purpose, just pull the wires and tape them up, shove them in a piece of hose, whatever.

Now run a wire directly from the battery to the FSS. See what happens.

 

[JFlay]

Okay so I took a jumper wire and tapped to the fss and I could hear very positive actuating happening, so I took that as a good sign. I cleaned up some shady looking wiring and taped off some bare wire and dead ends. Decided before I really do anything I'd give it another try. With some ether it cranked off and ran, but only for a minute or so.. I seems like the fss is shorting out with the electric fuel pump somehow. With the key on, and un plugging the fss, the fuel pump will kick back on and vice versa.. strange. My plan is to just run both of these to a switch, independent of any messed up harness problems I may not have uncovered yet..

Also, while the truck was running for that short bit, the IP was leaking very steadily from the bolts that stick through the top cover that go to the fss. Could I have messed something up there? The old fss looked okay, so maybe I can stick that one back in if need be. Not sure if there's a seal I'm supposed to replace or what. Thanks for the replies everyone, I really appreciate this community!

 

[Selahdoor]

Good progress.

I would leave all those wires disconnected and taped up or stuck into rubber hoses.

Run a wire from the battery, (with a fuse), into the cab. Or find/make a good fused source already in the cab.

Run a wire from that to a toggle switch, and from the toggle switch out to the FSS.

You'll have to make sure to turn that toggle on, to be able to run and drive the truck.(And turn it back off, when you turn the truck off.)

For the moment, you should do it to see if the truck then continues to run.

If the truck does continue to run, when set up this way... Leave the old harness isolated.

Now find a "hot in run", fused source, and run that straight to your FSS. That will put your truck back to the way it was intended. And you won't have to remember the toggle switch. (Or you could just do that in the first place. Just be sure to find a source that comes on and stays on, while the key is in the run position.)

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Not sure if there's a seal I'm supposed to replace or what.

There is an o-ring type gasket that seals the top of the injector pump, IIRC.

 

[JFlay]

There is an o-ring type gasket that seals the top of the injector pump, IIRC.

I saw that o-ring seal, and I'd like to replace that. But the fuel is spraying out of where the fss post comes through the cover. Is there a seal I can get to fix this? I'll look into some kind of seal kit for the pump.

 

[Thewespaul]

I’ve got seal kits for these pumps

 

[JFlay]

I’ve got seal kits for these pumps

Does that include those little plastic-like seals that go under the fss hardware? If so I'll take a kit. I know the gasket under the cover probably needs replaced as well

 

[Thewespaul]

Yessir, the reseal kit is for the entire pump, just no hard parts like metering valve advance piston etc. $50 shipped

 

[Macrobb]

Here's a cheaper option: https://www.ebay.com/itm/272727660208
$27 seal kit; it'll include many parts you won't mess with probably, but the ones you are talking about are the 3 brown spacer things in the lower right area of the picture.
I've had luck myself with kits like this.

 

[ComatoseLlama]

I am having the same wiring issues as you, GPC burnt up and now my FSS wiring doesn't work.

Get a manual conversion from wes and do what selhadoor said, and just forget about the 30+ year old wiring. Then hope nothing else goes wrong