New injectors arrived. Advice?

[typ4]

The reason there is mention of the IP removal is most likely to service or replace it with the injectors. It is not uncommon to have IP issues after new injectors due to the higher pop pressure of the new injectors and the worn out IP.

Urban myth.

 

[typ4]

I got an in-person look at what I'm up against.

I was hoping to not have to mess with the IP. I was hoping to just loosen the injector line supply.
I didn't realize that there was a hard line from the IP to each injector.
Should I stick with my plan of loosening/removing 8 hard lines so I can change my injectors or is messing with the IP the better plan of attack?

Leave the pump alone , loosen the vibration dampers and flex the line out of the way of the injector you are changing. Done thousands. no issues.

 

[Nero]

Urban myth.

Maybe for our engines, but I've seen ip's screw up in other engines due to similar situations. Replaced the injectors in a cheby 6.2 turbo, IP lasted maybe 200 miles before the shaft seal blew and started pouring fuel into the crankcase.

On our engines though, I've done tons of injectors without IP issues. Could have just been a Chevy thing, but aren't those pumps similar to ours?

 

[typ4]

AND, cleanliness is your friend.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

1) Take the injector lines off, it will be less frustrating. I use a crows foot and a wrench. As mentioned above mark each one as putting them on is more like a jig saw puzzle if you take off the isolators.

If you do remove the injector lines, something to try is to only remove one side at a time. That way the lines should easily go back in the right place. Personally, I do like Russ said and just move the lines out of the way. You really don't have to move them very far.

On our engines though, I've done tons of injectors without IP issues. Could have just been a Chevy thing, but aren't those pumps similar to ours?

Yes they are. I think that you may have had a fluke experience.

 

[Big Bart]

AND, cleanliness is your friend.

Leave the pump alone , loosen the vibration dampers and flex the line out of the way of the injector you are changing. Done thousands. no issues.

How do you like to clean out the injector hole?

 

[Nero]

I personally have used a rag or shop towel on a screwdriver, spin it around a few times, hit it with a little brake clean while the rag is in there then pull it out, usually leaves it really clean.

 

[Cubey]

Bluepoint is snapon I think...

Correct. 10 years or so ago, I bought a HD truck spring tool for Bendix brakes and at the time, it was the cheapest one I could find that made the brake shoe springs very easy to install, under the Blue Point brand from SnapOn. Now you can get cheap ones that aren't as fancy but do the job just about as well from various online marketplaces. Blue Point, at least back then, was their Chinese-made tools.

 

[Ky85]

When I got my truck initially I was advised to always rotate the injectors and swivel nuts opposite until you hear the click of the threads lining up, and then tighten down.

to avoid cross threading

 

[Fixnstuff]

You'll have to bend them pretty far to kink them. The hardest part is if you do bend them a little, it's difficult to line up the threads for the swivel nut.

I WAS WRITING A REPLY AND IT SOMEHOW GOT POSTED BEFORE IT WAS READY SO I HAD TO DELETE IT. I'LL POST IT AND MORE LATER TODAY

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

I made an injector line wrench for the tough IP nuts on the bottom and now I take all the lines off without disturbing the dampers. I found it to be about as fast and a lot less annoying for me that way. Since I can reach any nut with that tool I do one full side first(right or left) then the other.
But let's face it I don't have to touch them very often. Once every few years or less.

The only trick is to loosen the injector nuts first so you can manipulate the line when loosening the IP nut second. Without the slack it takes forever to back the nut off.

 

[Brian VT]

I got new injectors from one of the recommended rebuilders here.

I'm new to diesels but I could tell something wasn't right. I was hoping it wasn't everything. lol
The main thing that didn't sit right with me was a "clacking" sound as soon as I tried to get the truck moving and the whole time the engine was under load. It went away when I coasted.
That, and it smoked HEAVILY until it was fully up to operating temperature. Like 10 minutes or more.
My neighbors probably ran to close their windows whenever they heard me start it up. lol
After the temp was up it ran fine and the smoke stopped. But still the "clacking" under load.
I read lots from you great folks here and someone said something about an injector maybe not working properly until it got warmed up. That stuck with me.
I had no history on the maintenance of this truck other than it had a "new fuel system". I've read lots on here about crappy (brand new) injectors so I decided that I'd start by biting the bullet and spending the $ for known-quality injectors. Then move on to the IP if needed. Then I dunno.
Well I'm happy to say that the injectors made a HUGE difference. The smoke is gone. And the clacking is gone. Thank you Russ for a quality product!!!! And thanks to all here that offer their knowledge.
I can't say that I enjoy wrenching but it sure is rewarding when you put in the effort and actually get a positive result. And save yourself the mechanic fees. And learn a bit about your engine.

So I know it's standard practice to replace the IP at the same time as the injectors. But I'm not sure mine needs it. I've read that a sign of a failing IP is hard starts. Especially when warm.
Mine starts instantly even when warm.
So I should be good for a bit? And I should go ahead and set the timing with my existing pump?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

And thanks to all here that offer their knowledge.

Yes. A lot of good people on here.

So I should be good for a bit?

The "hard to start when hot" issue is only one sign. Some aren't so obvious. It's possible that the pump is ok, but without knowing the mileage it's hard to tell for how long. It may last for another 95,000 miles, it might last for another 9.5 miles. Since it runs so good, I'd think that it's a little closer to the 95,000 than the 9.5. There's also the possibility that you think that it runs pretty good, but that's just because the new injectors make it run better. There's just no way to tell.

And I should go ahead and time my existing pump?

YES! Always time your IP after messing with the fuel system in any significant way. In your case, the new injectors will change the timing from where it was at before just by being in good shape.

 

[Big Bart]

I'm new to diesels but I could tell something wasn't right. I was hoping it wasn't everything. lol
The main thing that didn't sit right with me was a "clacking" sound as soon as I tried to get the truck moving and the whole time the engine was under load. It went away when I coasted.
That, and it smoked HEAVILY until it was fully up to operating temperature. Like 10 minutes or more.
My neighbors probably ran to close their windows whenever they heard me start it up. lol
After the temp was up it ran fine and the smoke stopped. But still the "clacking" under load.
I read lots from you great folks here and someone said something about an injector maybe not working properly until it got warmed up. That stuck with me.
I had no history on the maintenance of this truck other than it had a "new fuel system". I've read lots on here about crappy (brand new) injectors so I decided that I'd start by biting the bullet and spending the $ for known-quality injectors. Then move on to the IP if needed. Then I dunno.
Well I'm happy to say that the injectors made a HUGE difference. The smoke is gone. And the clacking is gone. Thank you Russ for a quality product!!!! And thanks to all here that offer their knowledge.
I can't say that I enjoy wrenching but it sure is rewarding when you put in the effort and actually get a positive result. And save yourself the mechanic fees. And learn a bit about your engine.

So I know it's standard practice to replace the IP at the same time as the injectors. But I'm not sure mine needs it. I've read that a sign of a failing IP is hard starts. Especially when warm.
Mine starts instantly even when warm.
So I should be good for a bit? And I should go ahead and set the timing with my existing pump?

Brian I would run it till you experience issues. You mention this truck is for occasional towing, there is no down side to keeping the pump as is. If later you have hot start issues you can address then.

 

[Brian VT]

Thanks.
I did have a hot start issue the other day (about 2 hours after I parked it) so I'm prepared to replace the IP sometime in the future. But I heard about the water trick to bail me out if it happens in the mean time.