New guy here, got some troubles...

[rhkcommander]

Got a 6.9L 4-speed banks sidewinder turbo - doesn't want to start cold and hot. compression start only. Just replaced a bunch of dead Champion glow plugs and gp relay. Feel free to quote a part of this message if you only want to answer a piece of it.

Found air intrusion where fuel line meets injectors, diesel was pouring out - guessing oring replacement will help?

Another question - how many miles can injectors last before replacement? I read 100k and these are stock and engine has 135k on it. We were getting a weak cylinder. Added some diesel kleen or whatever and seems like it might've been a stuck injector. Little blue smoke coming out but like I said alot of oil passing the CDR. She's running happier now after a push for compression starting.

what PSI should i get round-about on compression test. If I remember right ford said 185-385, with lowest psi within 25% of the highest

CDR valve is puking oil too as far as I can tell. I'll try and clean the tuna can and see if the rubbers still good. Whats a good thing for cleaning it? Looking for another air filter too, part number 41505 - the guy who owned it before had a K&N on there and torpedoed the turbo... And the alternator... And who knows what else... So its got another turbo. If anyone is willing to sell me a boost gauge P.M. me please. Same with Alt. and other parts. Already got pyro. I'll keep hunting the marketplace too.

I'm new to the 6.9 diesel, just been doing homework and trying to unfudge my truck. Theres a bit of fudge too so thank you for any help!



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Also, the original head bolts are on there - would the boost be enough from the banks turbo (if its even banks anymore it has been replaced afaik) - would it be enough to blow a head gasket with stock head bolts and if so anyone know a inexpensive stud kit? I'm kinda poor after buying the darned truck and other things. But I want to do the right thing for the truck. I know ARP's are good studs, and I found another set which were rated highly too but forgot who made 'em. But looks like 200+$ for the studs and then another 130 for gasket kit..

 

[fury9]

well yu can REPLACE the cdr ,any little bit of air intrusion is bad, really bad if you want to start the dang thing,Champion gp's, nasty,don't force them out you will do severe damage, search stuck glow plugs,I don't know how many miles you can go on a injector but I think I got over two hundred k on mine and they still work, 87 is a superb year for the 6.9 and you NNEEDD to read the tech articles, about cavitation and such.as for glow plugs you are gonna want the motorcraft beru's

 

[rhkcommander]

well yu can clean the cdr with gas and not compressed air,any little bit of air intrusion is bad, really bad if you want to start the dang thing,Champion gp's, nasty,don't force them out you will do severe damage, search stuck glow plugs,

Got some ZF9's for it already. I'm thinking its the air intrusion thats making it hard to start. And I think the glow plug controller is dead so I gotta finish the manual push button.

Got the champs out without losing any of the tips thankfully.

I'll go clean the CDR tomorrow, thanks for the gas tip I remember reading that somewhere a while ago

 

[rhkcommander]

bump for progress, cleaned the CDR out, should I be able to see any of the rubber? If i blow air on one of the big holes i can feel it come out the other hole. the little tiny hole is clean also

 

[towcat]

STOP STOP STOP

I don't know where the misinformation on that it's OK to wash a cdr with anything on this site is coming from, but it's not safe to do so whatsoever.
Every 50k miles, just change the damn thing out.
the rubber diaphram in the cdr is not very strong at all, check out the pic of what happens to one with some miles on it.
photo credit....thanks goatboy.

 

[argve]

that one I think had something close to 150k miles on her and had never been washed until I tore it apart to take pictures...

 

[Fozz]

FYI - Navistar (International) has them cheaper then Ford. Can't remember what I paid for it though.....

 

[rhkcommander]

dont matter the cdr is toast anyways. Thanks for letting me know though not to wash them out. That urbber looks thin. tiny chunks came out AND if i blow on either of the big holes air comes out the other one. I only attempted cleaning it because I knew it was bad (last owner didn't know what a CDR was)- oil everywhere in the intake

should I get a new CDR or switch to blow by? I've read about it, not sure what anyones experience is though on the 6.9 other then that it drops some oil - which is better?

As for why I thought it was cleanable - I read a lot - http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6152642&postcount=2

Thanks for all the help so far everyone!

 

[rhkcommander]

Got the glow plugs working in manual, batteries are dead since the alt wont charge them though . a guy on here's hopefully gonna send me one though

too dead to start the truck. but sounded close this time rather than just turnin

 

[The Warden]

I'd better ask...how long are you cranking the engine for, and how long are you letting the starter rest in between starting attempts?

The general rule of thumb is to crank for 30 seconds and then let the engine sit for 2 minutes. Any more than that and you risk burning the starter out

 

[rhkcommander]

I'd better ask...how long are you cranking the engine for, and how long are you letting the starter rest in between starting attempts?

The general rule of thumb is to crank for 30 seconds and then let the engine sit for 2 minutes. Any more than that and you risk burning the starter out

I let it sit alot longer then that between tries, and only about 10-20 seconds I'd guess.

Found that the cable that connects the batts in series isn't giving a good connection . and injection fuel lines stopped leaking on the two injectors i found it leaking from earlier in the week, barely started hot today. last time i tried hot starting it wouldn't.. bad IP or air in fuel?

also, the hose that goes to the CDR blows constant smoke when i took the CDR off for a test run

 

[NJKen]

dont matter the cdr is toast anyways. Thanks for letting me know though not to wash them out. That urbber looks thin. tiny chunks came out AND if i blow on either of the big holes air comes out the other one. I only attempted cleaning it because I knew it was bad (last owner didn't know what a CDR was)- oil everywhere in the intake

should I get a new CDR or switch to blow by? I've read about it, not sure what anyones experience is though on the 6.9 other then that it drops some oil - which is better?

As for why I thought it was cleanable - I read a lot - http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6152642&postcount=2

Thanks for all the help so far everyone!

Wow, that link is about useless. If you have enough oil going through a CDR to blow a head gasket you already needed anew engine anyway....
Ken

 

[rhkcommander]

got the truck running good today, semi-moderately hard start. runs good when shes running though and EGT's dont go stellar


getting thar

 

[Raiden7800]

The guy that owned this truck before...well... he claims to be a "Diesel Mechanic" (...didn't know there was an oil cooler on the engine either... ).

Once the batteries sat on the chargers (that's right, 2 of them) overnight, we had to cycle the glow plugs quite a few times to get her lit, but under her own battery power she finally did (Crank speed was normal, just incomplete ignition for a few seconds). When we hot started her, it took quite a bit of cranking ( ~ 7 seconds) and she sputtered to life. This is alot longer than my truck (I just flick the key and she starts hot), and so we are trying to figure out what got fudged.

The truck ran perfect up until the PO borrowed it, and took it to a beach on the coast. He has a picture of it doing literally a 4 foot wheelie in the sand... no joke.

When it finally came back (3 months later after "replacing" dead turbo), it would barely start hot, and cold...well... if we pushed it far enough with my truck and it spun fast enough to build heat for ignition it would go, good luck on the batteries...

Removed the CDR, and just have the CDR hose from the IP gear cover going into the Banks air cleaner housing. It's amazing how much oil it DOESN'T burn when the CDR is gone...

One step at a time...

~Rob~

 

[rhkcommander]

got truck running decent now.

modded the gp relay and added manual pushbutton by circumventing the controller. works good, also fixed the fog lights wiring, and pyrometer ground. The P.O. didn't know how to solder OR crimp wire connectors on. I'll psot some pictures

Adding in a air horn, with toggle switch for some fun stuff I'll show later

Going to do a compression test on 'er too... wish me luck but I have my doubts. I found sand on top of the block - lots of it. and the air cleaner is crushed on some sides at least it still runs