Need advice with my 1992 F250 7.3 IDI

[IDIBRONCO]

You shouldn't have to. What crosses over will mostly drain out of the driver's side. It may help if you jack up the driver's side of the truck before you try to put the cooler back on. It will at least slow down any drips of oil or coolant.

 

[Nick382]

Didn't end up ordering the petcocks: but I did make more work for myself! The oil pan drain plug decided to pull its threads out with it. I'all have to tap that a size up.

Gaskets for oil cooler coming in tomorrow. I'm only (re)replacing the ones between the cooler heads and the block. Should I use RTV this time?


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[Thewespaul]

Yes rtv and a good clean surface

 

[Nick382]

Yes rtv and a good clean surface

Should have went with my gut. My first experience with a failed gasket, and a paper gasket.

I read at the time of installing that RTV wouldn't be effective because the oil cooler and block are two different metals. Not sure if that's even true, but I know I didn't trust that flimsy little gasket!! Apparently I'm replacing it with another paper gasket when it gets in. Maybe I just have little faith.


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[79jasper]

The oil pan drain plug decided to pull its threads out with it. I'all have to tap that a size up.

Yeah, good luck with that. It's thin sheet metal with a thin nut on the inside.
Might wanna just look for a new pan.

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[Nick382]

Yeah, good luck with that. It's thin sheet metal with a thin nut on the inside.
Might wanna just look for a new pan.

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Doesn't that involve jacking the engine way up or removing it?


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[79jasper]

You could do it by lifting the engine, but you'll have to reach inside to drop the pickup tube.
But then without removing it, it'll be hard to get a good clean seal.

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[sjwelds]

Find a welding shop and have them weld a bung to the pan. Obviously drain the oil first.

I say this because I work in a welding shop and that's what I'd do if it was mine.

 

[OLDBULL8]

There is only one good way to replace the oil pan and that is to pull the engine. There is no way to really clean the pan rails so they won't leak after new pan install. The oil pump pickup tube and screen are about 3/8" off the bottom of the pan, that's about 11-1/2" down from the pump. Ford didn't use a pan gasket, they used RTV and that's tough to clean off the rails let alone the front and rear.
I have a good pan if you can't find one local. You have my cell number.
Feel for ya Nick, sure having your troubles.

 

[Nick382]

Thanks Bill. I think I'm gonna try and get away with a new plug and see if that seals up. If not, I'll try tapping it.

Pulling this engine is outside of my capabilities. Unfortunately it will have to go to a shop for that.

If I'm pulling the engine then I should really replace the clutch... the rabbit hole is so much deeper than it appears


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[Nick382]

Didn't end up needing to pull the pan. Had enough threads to accept a new plug. The bad news is the oil cooler gasket failed.

Again.

Cylinders 1 and 3 are still spraying fuel everywhere. I tried to better align the bubble flare to the injector. So, I get to drain coolant and oil for a third time.


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[Nick382]

Can someone please help me figure out what I'm doing wrong? Both times I installed the gaskets the only way possible; with the gasket material facing the engine block while the bare part of the paper gasket seated against the cooler head.

Thinking on this problem, I can only come up with a handful of reasons for failure.

1. Incorrect assembly / damaged gasket
2. Warped mating surfaces
3. Cracked block / header
4. Obstruction forward of the front header causing excess oil pressure

I'm getting oil pressure to the sending unit (I believe 7 lbs is enough to keep the gauge happy,) so option 4 seems unlikely. The warped / cracked option seems more plausible at this point. Machine shops aren't open on the weekend, so I don't really have a good way to have the cooler surface checked for flatness. I can't imagine this being an issue with the mating surface or a crack on the block.

I also realize that while I'm not the only person in the world to have this issue, it seems I'm on a short list. It's not good news that a new cooler head is not available either.

I feel like with how few people have had issues with these cooler heads that I HAVE to be doing something wrong.

 

[Thewespaul]

What part number are you using for the gaskets? You might be getting 7.3 psd gaskets

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Maybe you could order gaskets for a 6.9. That way you know you're getting the right ones.

 

[Nick382]

The PSD gaskets are the metal with silicone impregnated surface (I think.). The first time I used felpro gaskets, and this time I tried the Ford gaskets.

I used the part numbers listed on diesehub for the cooler rebuild


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