Need advice with my 1992 F250 7.3 IDI

[Macrobb]

Uh...? Fleetguard is a conventional green coolant with SCA's added, that's what it is.

I still believe in Zerex HD ELC coolant(P/N ZXED1, available at Napa), which is compatible with our engine's seals and seems to work just fine. It's all I run.

 

[Nick382]

I thought there was an issue with running a type that wasn't intended for Diesel engines. I could be mistaken


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[madpogue]

I've read that I can't combine conventional green automotive coolant and the SCA's without undesirable consequences.

Wherever you read that, it's nonsense. SCA is MADE for conventional anti-freeze. What do you think was put in the truck originally, before ELCs even existed? In fact, Peak Fleet Charge is simply conventional anti-freeze pre-charged with SCA; it just happens to be dyed pink.

Fleetguard is a brand, not a particular product, and I don't know of any anti-freeze they make that's pre-charged.

 

[Nick382]

I think I meant fleet charge. This is where I read about the silicates causing issues with conventional coolant.

https://www.oilburners.net/threads/coolant-sca-additive.50284/

In any event, an extended life or pre charge coolant appears to be a cost effective solution.


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[snicklas]

Uh...? Fleetguard is a conventional green coolant with SCA's added, that's what it is.

I still believe in Zerex HD ELC coolant(P/N ZXED1, available at Napa), which is compatible with our engine's seals and seems to work just fine. It's all I run.

Zerex Z-05 is what I used in my IDI. I believe they have changed the formula recently, as it now has the Cummins spec number that is compatible with the older engines and seals. At one point in time it wasn't. It's not cheap thought.... expect $80+ for enough concentrate for an IDI. Next time I do a changed on the 6.0 I may used this in there, just to keep 1 coolant in stock.....

 

[Macrobb]

Zerex Z-05 is what I used in my IDI. I believe they have changed the formula recently, as it now has the Cummins spec number that is compatible with the older engines and seals. At one point in time it wasn't. It's not cheap thought.... expect $80+ for enough concentrate for an IDI. Next time I do a changed on the 6.0 I may used this in there, just to keep 1 coolant in stock.....

I just looked at the PI sheets for both:
G-05: https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publ...2d889bd3/eac350d9-1c76-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3
HD ELC: https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publ...2d889bd3/5ba9e4a6-1c76-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3

They are pretty similar in specs and such, except for:
1. G-05 is "low silicate" with around 300PPM; HD ELC doesn't mention silicate at all(I'm guessing it doesn't contain any?)
2. The two coolants meet *different* Navistar specs, no overlap. They both meet a number of other specs as well that do overlap.
3. The G-05 is slightly better in the "aluminum water pump cavitation test", both meet the ASTM spec.
4. There's a bunch of numbers in the various corrosion sample tests; both meet them all by a wide margin, but the numbers are different.

My guess at this point is they both will work fine, they both seem to have the same cost, they both are definitely different technologies(HD ELC when it evaporates leaves behind white/pink powder, I don't think the G-05 does that)... The silicate in the G-05 might have some additional protection properties, but might destroy water pump seals more than otherwise?

That's the best I can get out of them.

 

[snicklas]

The G-05 leaves a white-ish film also. Popped the top tank on the radiator not long after we put in the G-05....... (Wasn't the coolants fault.... rad was old and in worse shape than we thought.)

 

[Nick382]

Unboxed an injection pump, 8 stock injectors, and a return line kit this evening. Hopefully I can free up some time to tackle the oil leak issues while the coolant is out and can install the new items ASAP.

I suppose while I'm at it, I should probably order my Motorcraft GP's and some new coolant!! I'll probably stick with what the engine manufacturer suggests and stay away from the ELC coolants.

 

[Nick382]

The majority of the rock auto stuff showed up today. Forgot a few items, and I will end up going elsewhere to buy a thermostat housing, radiator hoses, as well as fuel hose for the pickup modification.

I was thankful that the PO replaced the OEM drain plugs with bolts, but is there ANY way to remove the passenger side without taking a shower?

Anyway, tools for removing the fan should be here tomorrow too.

 

[Thatoneguy]

The majority of the rock auto stuff showed up today. Forgot a few items, and I will end up going elsewhere to buy a thermostat housing, radiator hoses, as well as fuel hose for the pickup modification.

I was thankful that the PO replaced the OEM drain plugs with bolts, but is there ANY way to remove the passenger side without taking a shower?

Anyway, tools for removing the fan should be here tomorrow too.

I've made deflector plates / funnels for it out of carboard. Just gotta play the "see with your fingers" game for a min while you hide behind the delctor .are of cardboard that's wedged into a bucket and undo the drains.

 

[Nick382]

Good thing it's all said and done now.

I got to looking at my pump after work today, and realized that I didn't remove the solenoid and bracket before sending it out... Just cost myself $100. *Sigh*

 

[Nick382]

The good news is the harmonic balancer eventually came out. Not before it broke a puller kit, but that is beside the point.

The bad news is that the leak I suspected to be the front main seal appears to be coming from the oil pan, not the front main seal. Whie I'm in there, i'm going to go ahead and change it. I need to decide if I'm doing the water pump or not...

Next up is the oil cooler! I ordered a fel-pro kit from napa, but don't know if the included o-rings are the correct ones for the cooler. The guide at diesel hub lists the fel-pro number as block gaskets only.

 

[Nick382]

Seems like I ordered The wrong part. The oil cooler gasket set I received appears to fit early power strokes. The O-rings seem to fit, but the engine block gaskets are entirely different. Should I replace the O-rings that I installed? The kit I bought was Fel-pro es72519. The dorman kit that includes all the correct gaskets was $40 at Nappa.

Should I just stop while I'm ahead and replace everything with Ford parts? Seems like people have issues with the their brands sealing correctly.


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[Nick382]

I ended up contacting the manufacturer and verifying that the o-ring sizes were going to work. Reassembled the oil and cooling systems, torqued a bunch of bolts and installed the IP. That's when I noticed the IP didn't have the adapter to thread in the hard line or the barb for the return line. Justin already sent back my old fast idle solenoid (thanks Justin!)

So yesterday I did the drums. Replaced everything but the parking brake cables. Those hold down springs are an actual nightmare! I didn't lube anything while I was in there, but I still need to adjust it. Is there anything in a drum that gets SilGlyde or any type of metal on metal that could use some brake quiet?

Since my parts cache is just about dried up; I ordered some fuel tank strainers and I also ordered the rotors I left off the first one. Im sure there are shocks in my future as well. Will probably leave the bushings alone this year.

While I'm playing with the braking system and it's warm outside, I'd also like to bend my own brake lines. I planned on going with Copper nickel lines (very reasonable cost and ease of use), but quickly found out that there are a lot of different sized fittings on our trucks. Any suggestions on where to order the materials / tools for this job? I don't have the flare or bending tool. Ive also read horror stories about the cheap flare tools.

Rock auto and amazon can only take me so far ! Might have to venture farther out for this one.




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[79jasper]

Eastwood has some nice brake line tools.

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