Need advice with my 1992 F250 7.3 IDI

[Nick382]

If you're using a compression tester that goes into the glow plug hole, there shouldn't be any fuel coming out of the return lines. If your tester goes into the injector holes, then your return lines are open. Since the return lines are connected to the fuel filter, then I could see where the lift pump could push fuel through the filter, into the return lines and out on to the engine. This would have nothing at all to do with the injector pump.

The main issue was that the lines were in the way of me getting the adapter in the GP hole. They got knocked loose, and for whatever reason would drip after I ran the starter. Nothing like before where there was a fuel shower I took a bath in.

I believe that WesPaul was correct in that it has a lot to do with the condition of my injection pump and attached components. The rebuilder's I asked seemed to think I was crazy, or didn't know how to unplug a solenoid.

 

[Nick382]

Cylinder number one injector looks REALLY bad.


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[Thewespaul]

Yikes. Make sure there's not two copper washers down there, clean the bore perfectly and replace with new copper washers

 

[Thatoneguy]

Is the shutoff valve still good?

 

[Thatoneguy]

Oh scratch my previous post. Guess I should have rest more than just the first one. I agree with thewespaul. And that injector looks TERRIBLE.

 

[Nick382]

Yeah; while the injector is out, I'd like to use a bore scope to see what else is going on in there! Is it true that the rusty part of the injector doesn't exactly reflect the condition of the actually cylinder bore? I'd like to clean it up regardless but I feel like it's going to be hard without throwing the refuge directly into the combustion chamber


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[Thatoneguy]

Yeah; while the injector is out, I'd like to use a bore scope to see what else is going on in there! Is it true that the rusty part of the injector doesn't exactly reflect the condition of the actually cylinder bore? I'd like to clean it up regardless but I feel like it's going to be hard without throwing the refuge directly into the combustion chamber


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Could try the magnet on a string trick... On Amazon you can get little neodymium magnets, mock up a way to string it, and drop it in. As far as the boroscope goes, the ones at harbor freight actually work quite well for the money. Especially if yours not using it every day. Handy thing to have around.

 

[Nick382]

Could try the magnet on a string trick... On Amazon you can get little neodymium magnets, mock up a way to string it, and drop it in. As far as the boroscope goes, the ones at harbor freight actually work quite well for the money. Especially if yours not using it every day. Handy thing to have around.

All of the injectors copper o rings were seated and came out with them. Should I be worried about them being double stacked? I have 8 washers for all 8 injectors


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[Thatoneguy]

If you have them all I wouldn't worry about it.... But I would still scope down in there. If for no other reason than just for a look-see to make sure everything is up to par. It can't hurt and might reveal valuable Intel! But disclaimer, I am not really experienced with the injectors of these motors compared to some others on this forum. So the not worrying about washers is just my opinion. I just don't see why someone would have double stacked them...

 

[Thewespaul]

Bore scope will not give you a view of the cylinder, these are indirect injection engines so you will only see the precup.

 

[Thewespaul]

Here's a write up I did awhile back on our injectors
https://www.oilburners.net/threads/removing-your-idi-injectors.80357/

 

[Thatoneguy]

Bore scope will not give you a view of the cylinder, these are indirect injection engines so you will only see the precup.

Now THAT is why my disclaimer was there! Very valid point that I didn't even think about. Would there be any benefit of looking inside the precup?

 

[79jasper]

Is it true that the rusty part of the injector doesn't exactly reflect the condition of the actually cylinder bore?

Correct.
Apparently a 12 gauge shotgun bore brush works quite well.

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[Thatoneguy]

Correct.
Apparently a 12 gauge shotgun bore brush works quite well.

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I would take a section of the bore rod you would use with the brush on the actual shotgun barrel, Chuck it up in a drill, and send it through the bore spinning. That's a trick I've used restoring old shotguns with surface rust or caked on carbon inside the barrel or receiver.

 

[Thatoneguy]

Oh and be spraying WD-40 or similar in there while doing it.