Need advice with my 1992 F250 7.3 IDI
- Thread starter Nick382
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79jasper
Chickenhawk
Long as it's a double flare, doesn't really matter. Mostly preference and how deep your pockets are. Lol
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No suggestions, but I've used a lot of Eastwood stuff over the years, good stuff.
Late update from yesterday!
I installed the shiny new fuel system I ordered from Justin. Couldn't quite get the truck running as the batteries were tired from sitting without being charged; Both tested good before all the cranking shenanigans. There's a pretty bad leak on the bottom two lines that connect to the pump. I'm going to buy a 5/8ths crow foot wrench to hopefully tighten those lines without removing the entire pump (timing cover) again. I should be able to get away with just removing the lines... We'll see!
I believe I've aligned the timing mark so the engine can run, but it's not located where I expected it to be. It's facing the driver side of the truck. Is that normal? It appears to be directly on top in some images I found on the subject here.
I installed the shiny new fuel system I ordered from Justin. Couldn't quite get the truck running as the batteries were tired from sitting without being charged; Both tested good before all the cranking shenanigans. There's a pretty bad leak on the bottom two lines that connect to the pump. I'm going to buy a 5/8ths crow foot wrench to hopefully tighten those lines without removing the entire pump (timing cover) again. I should be able to get away with just removing the lines... We'll see!
I believe I've aligned the timing mark so the engine can run, but it's not located where I expected it to be. It's facing the driver side of the truck. Is that normal? It appears to be directly on top in some images I found on the subject here.
It should be straight up but,ever so slightly towards the passenger side,most likely,when you go to time it.
Yeah,like that guys pic:
Sounds like, you'll need to loosen the 3 ip nuts,all the hard lines and try again.Keeping in mind,when you snug things down,that your eventually going to twist the IP,to the pass side a touch.
Yeah,like that guys pic:
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Sounds like, you'll need to loosen the 3 ip nuts,all the hard lines and try again.Keeping in mind,when you snug things down,that your eventually going to twist the IP,to the pass side a touch.
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Mine is not like that.
This is my mark that's basically horizontal.
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I'll take a more macro picture in a few minutes.
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Not to worry, it works just the same it's just in a different place
Here is the fuel filter connections.
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Thanks Bill!
Sometimes a map and two hands isn't enough for me.
I also saw a post elsewhere that referenced McMaster oring # 9464k24 for the o-rings on the hard lines. I also called my local diesel shop and they have some in stock. I'll replace them with the correct ones and leave the o-rings in the truck as spares!
Sometimes a map and two hands isn't enough for me.
I also saw a post elsewhere that referenced McMaster oring # 9464k24 for the o-rings on the hard lines. I also called my local diesel shop and they have some in stock. I'll replace them with the correct ones and leave the o-rings in the truck as spares!
Well, I replaced the IP supply and lift pump line sleeves. No more fuel in the valley pan when cranking. However, it seemed to be MUCH more difficult to get fuel at the injectors.
It would have helped had I prefilled the fuel filter with fresh fuel, or tried to bleed air out using the Schrader valve while cranking. Instead I just bullied my batteries and starter. Eventually got fuel at the schrader valve but forgot to pick up clear line to verify fuel at the IP.
I also think that this sleeve replacement exposed some weak links. I had a clear fluid (quite likely diesel) drip and make a puddle under the tranny / starter area and appeared to come from above the starter. My best guess was this is a return line leak. When I took off the old IP, the return line off the IP was clogged.
The batteries also appear to be tired. I'm able to get 3, maybe 4 fifteen second cranks before they're flat out unwilling to turn the starter with any speed. They test good at the auto parts store, but I feel like that has to be a surface charge. Two exactly the same 750cca batteries should last longer than that. Perhaps it is time to suck it up and convert to group 31 batteries. But that also means new cables...
Edit: spelling and format
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It would have helped had I prefilled the fuel filter with fresh fuel, or tried to bleed air out using the Schrader valve while cranking. Instead I just bullied my batteries and starter. Eventually got fuel at the schrader valve but forgot to pick up clear line to verify fuel at the IP.
I also think that this sleeve replacement exposed some weak links. I had a clear fluid (quite likely diesel) drip and make a puddle under the tranny / starter area and appeared to come from above the starter. My best guess was this is a return line leak. When I took off the old IP, the return line off the IP was clogged.
The batteries also appear to be tired. I'm able to get 3, maybe 4 fifteen second cranks before they're flat out unwilling to turn the starter with any speed. They test good at the auto parts store, but I feel like that has to be a surface charge. Two exactly the same 750cca batteries should last longer than that. Perhaps it is time to suck it up and convert to group 31 batteries. But that also means new cables...
Edit: spelling and format
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Good comes with the bad!
Truck tried to fire off as soon as I put the single charged battery that tested good. A bit of a purge from the filter, then the lines, and she fired right up.
The bad news is that the front oil cooler gasket didn't like the running condition. Made a hell of a mess, and now I have to drain the oil and coolant again to replace the block gasket. Glad I reused the previous coolant and oil!
So going forward, I need to buy two new batteries (local truck shop has 850 cca with 150 rc @ $89 each), new cables, the gaskets for the oil cooler, and coolant additive once the truck is done dumping gallons of fluid on the ground.
I also had a fuel leak from injectors 1 and 3. I think it's a line alignment issue, but the caps were quite tight while it was spraying everywhere.
Edit: Is it possible to remove the oil cooler without removing the block drains?
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Truck tried to fire off as soon as I put the single charged battery that tested good. A bit of a purge from the filter, then the lines, and she fired right up.
The bad news is that the front oil cooler gasket didn't like the running condition. Made a hell of a mess, and now I have to drain the oil and coolant again to replace the block gasket. Glad I reused the previous coolant and oil!
So going forward, I need to buy two new batteries (local truck shop has 850 cca with 150 rc @ $89 each), new cables, the gaskets for the oil cooler, and coolant additive once the truck is done dumping gallons of fluid on the ground.
I also had a fuel leak from injectors 1 and 3. I think it's a line alignment issue, but the caps were quite tight while it was spraying everywhere.
Edit: Is it possible to remove the oil cooler without removing the block drains?
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79jasper
Chickenhawk
You can, but you'll make more of a mess.
This time, replace the plugs with petcocks.
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This time, replace the plugs with petcocks.
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My hope was that draining coolant wouldn't be common occurrence, but Murphy strikes again. I'll certainly order some now.
Will I have to drain the passenger side as well? I was absolutely unable to catch any of that with a container. I believe I wore that gallon last time.
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