DiecellDan
Registered User
My oil pan plug is stripped badly. Tried going up a size which didn't work. Tried using an ecoplug but leaks. Anyone have a solid solution?
Motor oil pain plug repair
- Thread starter DiecellDan
- Start date
Austin86250
Full Access Member
a new pan or one from junk yard
Here is a weld-on repair kit.
www.macsautoparts.com
Oil Drain Plug Repair Kit/ Weld-in Type
If the threads in your oil pan are stripped or damaged otherwise, we have two different types of repair kits that can help get you back on the road. Both the glue-in & weld-in styles include directions to make your repair a quick & easy process. Choose the one that is best for your needs.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I was thinking about something like that too. Either that or weld on one of those drain plugs that you flip a small lever to drain your oil.
The heat of welding might damage the valve type of drain. I think they're brass anyway, not steel. At least the one I had once was, made by Fumoto.
captain720
Full Access Member
Consider welding in a npt bung and screwing in a heat sensitive valve. Also if you don't have a welder or can't confidently weld that gauge steel I'm sure an exhaust shop would do it very inexpensively
NeverHave-I-Ether
Full Access Member
The problem with a valve on the oil pan is in the freak accident it opens some how....not worth the risk. Maybe a special valve your speaking of?
This kind. It's made for use as an oil drain plug. You have to lift the lever to turn it. The optional plastic bit helps to lock it in place if you're worried about it.
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Without the plastic bit, with the valve in the drain/open position:
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NeverHave-I-Ether
Full Access Member
That's better than what I was thinking, I'd still stick with a bolt imo. Pretty interesting though.
They're better for pans that don't have the bolt facing down. That one I showed is the lowest profile one they make. They make ones with a hose barb for draining into a container (ie, old empty oil jug) with vinyl tubing without the need for a drain pan.
DrCharles
Full Access Member
I'm wondering about the safety of welding on an oil pan, coated with oil on the inside... if the heat and sparks ignite the vapors, the valley pan (and maybe the oil pan too) will suddenly have a completely different shape...
I guess it's possible to purge the interior with CO2 or argon, but nobody's mentioned that.
I guess it's possible to purge the interior with CO2 or argon, but nobody's mentioned that.
Big Bart
Tow&Slow
There is potential, but oil and diesel have a high flash point. They tend to catch fire not explode. Due to the thin metal on a oil pan this should be TIG’d but potentially could be MIG’d so not likely to create enough heat to cause the oil inside to catch fire inside the pan. Especially if you stopped and started doing a quarter turn at a time.
But your idea of a purge gas would be a good safety measure. If this was a gasser there would be more potential for fire and pressure.
TNBrett
Full Access Member
You say you tried going up a size, what exactly did you try? The next easiest step may be to try and tap it out to 3/8 NPT and install a pipe plug. I don’t think there’s enough metal there to drill it out and tap for a 16mm drain plug. It would be easier than welding.
ROCK HARVEY
Full Access Member
I would definitely NOT weld on the oil pan while it’s still on the engine. Maybe it won’t “explode” per-se, but maybe it will. I’m certain you will at least start a fire inside your oil pan. I don’t know the numbers, but I’m sure welding arc temperature is well above the flash point for oil and diesel. All the big fireball explosions you see in movies are done with diesel fuel. Unfortunately though, you can’t remove the oil pan without pulling the engine.
Like TNBrett said, what size plug did you use? A problem I’ve run into is a lot of parts stores list the wrong drain plug size for our trucks. They show a 14-1.25, when it should be 1/2-20. I would make sure I have the right size, then buy a single or double oversize drain plug and see if it works. If that doesn’t work I would use JB weld to permanently attach one of those Fumoto drains. Good luck and keep us updated!
Like TNBrett said, what size plug did you use? A problem I’ve run into is a lot of parts stores list the wrong drain plug size for our trucks. They show a 14-1.25, when it should be 1/2-20. I would make sure I have the right size, then buy a single or double oversize drain plug and see if it works. If that doesn’t work I would use JB weld to permanently attach one of those Fumoto drains. Good luck and keep us updated!
Big Bart
Tow&Slow
Some thoughts
1) Has anyone had a oil pan off, I have not? I would guess the part where it bolts up is thicker and reinforced. So making the hole bigger to tap might put you out of the reinforced zone.
2) Have folks had luck tapping out a oil plug or did they just replace the pan?
3) I was not suggesting arc welding (Stick welding.) or brazing with a torch. Rather controlled TIG or MIG small sections at a time. But obviously as stated there is some risk. But we all need to remember gassers and diesels expel exhaust, heat, and flames past rings and worn valves. Ever seen a gas engine back fire via the intake. But engines generally never blow up. They restrict but do not contain the explosion. (Pooof not kaboom.) Remember those pyro meters at 1,100 degrees prolonged.(Not 3-30 seconds.).
4) Everybody should always do what they feel is safe and prudent. If welding on a oil pan is not safe by your standards then by all means I respect your decision not to.
1) Has anyone had a oil pan off, I have not? I would guess the part where it bolts up is thicker and reinforced. So making the hole bigger to tap might put you out of the reinforced zone.
2) Have folks had luck tapping out a oil plug or did they just replace the pan?
3) I was not suggesting arc welding (Stick welding.) or brazing with a torch. Rather controlled TIG or MIG small sections at a time. But obviously as stated there is some risk. But we all need to remember gassers and diesels expel exhaust, heat, and flames past rings and worn valves. Ever seen a gas engine back fire via the intake. But engines generally never blow up. They restrict but do not contain the explosion. (Pooof not kaboom.) Remember those pyro meters at 1,100 degrees prolonged.(Not 3-30 seconds.).
4) Everybody should always do what they feel is safe and prudent. If welding on a oil pan is not safe by your standards then by all means I respect your decision not to.
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