Mater and Goldie spent LUK clutches

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

So I burried Mater this winter during plow season. He still had enough clutch to move about freely and I decided to nurse it along till snow season was gone.
Well, the only white stuff hitting the grass now is frost and I could pretty much slip the clutch in any gear by just flooring the go pedal.

Took Mater into the shop and put him under the knife for some much needed attention since he's gonna be boonie bashin it this weekend with the guys from church hauling firewood for those that need it.

Plowing snow I must add is ******* trucks. 2 winters of doing so and Mater is already showing signs of the carnage.

I got the trans unbolted and slid back.
Pulled everything off the flywheel to find pieces of clutch material raining down on me.

Yup, spent every bit of that one and upon further inspection it was a LUK kit that was installed. Whoops! Gues they can get eaten up too.

Well it's a good thing that the 460 T-19 clutch setup is exactly the same for the 6.9 T-19 setup. Woohoo, spare parts!

So upon completing the teardown. It was time to break camp and retrieve the little Butts for my parents.

Celebrating the recent re-install of th Goldies turbo, I got the boost gauge hooked up and gave her a spin.
Well she was performing flawlessly and recieving 7-8psi of boost and would easily hit 10 psi running empty.

Well 5th gear 70 mph and 10 psi of boost was the clutches limits:***:

Son of a......
This can't be happening. Well I stewed on it all night and just got off the telephone with Darrin as I was explaining my ventures of misfortune to him.
He proceded to ask me about the rear main seal leaking. Yup sure is.
That was compliment to the turbo install first time around with too much crankcase pressure, hence the RDT install.

So as Darrin suggested, Maters clutch install will just get me practiced up.

The rally is how many weeks away????

Geee thanks!

 

[subway]

ooooo....ooooo... me next i will even provide free beer

 

[hesutton]

Yup, that story rings a bell. I had the same issue with my rig after I switched to a DPS IP and injectors. I went with a 12 inch South Bend Kevlar/Metalic. It graps a bit firmer than stock, but it doesn't slip.

It is SEVEN WEEKS UNTIL THE RALLY! No pressure.

Oh, here's the South Bend Clutch on the flywheel....

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Heath

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

What kinda tweaks me about Goldies clutch is that it only has about 10k on it.
I'm sure the engine oil hasn't helped any.

 

[david85]

You could just replace the rear main seal while you have the flywheel off? They're realy easy to replace on these engines since front and rear are one piece seals.

How is your RDT routed?

 

[redneckaggie]

dont mean to hijack the thread but since david mentioned the rdt i was wondering about mine. I just put it on and havent got the truck goin again. anyways it is just clear 1 in plastic hose but the way i ran it it has to sit on the valve covers. shouldnt have to worry about it restin there and melting the hose right.

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

You could just replace the rear main seal while you have the flywheel off? They're realy easy to replace on these engines since front and rear are one piece seals.

How is your RDT routed?

Gonna have to.

I've got my RDT plumbed into the exhaust by means of a venturi.
Works great as it puts the excess crancase pressure and vapor into the exhaust stream and exits to the rear of the truck.
No more "hey yer truck is on fire" comments.

 

[Agnem]

Somebody school me on how a leaky rear main seal should make a shinola of difference to the health of a clutch?

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

I know direct oil contact cannot be made due to the flywheel creating a large barrier, but if you see how bad the leak is and keeping an open mind, I think some residual can get slung around in the bellhousing to warrant some contamination.

I really don't have the funds to convert to a 12" setup right now, but I fear the fiver weight will make matters worse and BG is a ways from home.

Any idears on swapping in a 11" kevlar clutch disc?
Or am I ******* in the wind with that thought since the pressure plate is as much at fault.

10k and it's spent already? I thought LUK was a quality product?

This will make for the 3rd clutch in 2 years as I spun the center out of one 2 years ago hauling a 6k trailer non turbo'ed.

 

[hesutton]

They have four options for the 6.9/T19 combo.

- a 11 inch stock clutch
- a 11 inch Kevlar clutch
- a 12 inch "stock" clutch
- a 12 inch Kevlar clutch

I have no idea what the cost would be, but I'd call them and see what they can do as far as pricing.

Heath

 

[Darrin Tosh]

So as Darrin suggested, Maters clutch install will just get me practiced up.

The rally is how many weeks away????

Geee thanks!

Yer Welcome,...

Somebody school me on how a leaky rear main seal should make a shinola of difference to the health of a clutch?

Yea I just figured that if it was leaking bad enough it could lubricate the clutch and it could start slipping.

,,,.............signs off ignoring Rons new avatar,,........

 

[zukinut]

Mel,

True the flywheel should act like a barrier. But its a rotating mass. Oil gets on it (on the backside) and as the flywheel rotates it slings that oil. With heat and rpms the oil becomes a vapor more or less. At that point it gets between clutch disk and flywheel. The disk cant clamp fully do to the oily substance, it starts slipping. Eventually it wears out a clutch.

Will

 

[RLDSL]

If you want to get a real nice clutch and not spend a fortune, call Ft Wayne Clutch and get a rebuilt 100% kevlar lined clutch. They last anywhere from 3-10 times as long as standard and the 100% kevlar won't eat your flywheel like those blends will. Best part is the price , I just bought a 12 1/4" rebuilt kevlar clutch kit for about $345 shipped and teh thing feels great. This is the second one I've bought from them. I had bought an 11" Kevlar clutch from them a little while back and it was great, but when my DMF folded, I was graciously given a 12 1/4" flywheel that needed resurfacing by Pontoonrob (and I forgot to check the mounting holes on it before I put it in and then realized the extra set of holes was for a 12, not an 11, so I didn't feel like wrastling that flywheel again te get more holes in it, so I just bought another clutch) but after about 10k miles of hard pulling, that kevlar clutch still measured out a tad thicker than a random new clutch we pulled off the shelf at the parts store. It's about to go into someone elses truck right now.

When I bought that 11" clutch is was quite a bit cheaper than the 12 1/4" clutch as well

Other nice benefit is the way they match those things up. With the kevlar , it grabs so good, you don't need a lot of spring presure on the things to pull because of the greater friction, so they match them up with a fairly light pressure plate so the things are easy on the knee to boot .

One other potential point of contamination. When you have the clutch and flywheel out, take the tranny adapter plate off, and get a big tube of anaerobic gasket eliminator or silicone and , first clean the surfaces good, then run a bead of sealant around there and put the plate back on. Make sure to tap it in square before bolting it up. That will prevent any oil or fuel from the top of the engine, especially fuel from bleeding the system , from running down there and between that plate and the block

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Well last night I must have been wearing the proverbial kick me sign once again.

Got the flywheel resurfaced on Mater, installed the clutch and pressure plate.
Lined the trans up and shoved it right into place on the first attempt. Never done that one before. 5 minutes and it was back in place.

So one may ask why the sign???

Here ya go.

I got everything all hooked up and reinstalled below, went to reinstall the trans shifter and for some reason it wouldn't stay stationary. I fiddled with it for prolly 15 minutes before I realized that the retainer pin was gone.

NOOOOOOOOOO!

I feverishly looked around the frame rails, cross member, trans and transfer case in hopes it would appear. NOPE!!!

Sooo after wasting a total of 45 minutes to install the shifter lever, I decided it best to just walk away from it in attempts to better prepare myself mentally to tear apart the transmission to find that pin.

I'm hoping it just fell to the bottom and it will be easily accessible witha pen magnet, but given my luck, I'm sure it will be hung up somewhere on top of a gear that I'll try for tonight.

But on a different note, I tried to get the clutch to slip on Goldie last night with 11 psi of boost driving it like an 8000 sports car and couldn't get it to slip.
Hmmmm, did it clean itself up?

Weird.

 

[zukinut]

A cluth can dry itself and stop slipping, BUT if there is a leak it will start slipping again.