Manual fuel tank selector valves.

Cubey

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Seems to me you could just bypass the fuel part of the fuel switch, and leave the electrical part as-is, and it should continue to work.

True enough. Might want to plug off the ports so water and dirt doesn't get in though, shorting it out.
 

Selahdoor

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Exactly. I thought of that but forgot to include it. Thanks for covering that!
 

Cubey

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From a haynes or chilton book that shows the switch and valve:

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Also:
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franklin2

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Couldn't you just use a 3 position switch on the dash for the sending unit wires? Or maybe retain the original selector switch?

You certainly could. But you will have to splice and extend the front sending unit wire and the rear sending unit wire down at the original valve location and run those wires all the way up into the dash area. And in the dash area hunt down the yellow/white going to the dash gauge and cut and intercept it and wire it to the new switch along with the other two extended wires. The sending unit wires only exist down at the frame/valve location.
 

franklin2

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Seems to me you could just bypass the fuel part of the fuel selector valve, and leave the electrical part as-is, and it should continue to work.

The problem is, you are still relying on the unreliable valve to switch the sending units. The valve has a motor inside it that moves the valve mechanism to switch the fluid lines, and it also has a switch tied to this mechanical part to switch the sending units. When the valve fails and get's stuck, nothing is going to work including the electrical part that switches the sending units for the dash gauge.
 

Farmer Rock

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I will have the bed off when I do this, and don't mind doing some wiring, but now I am wondering which way is best. The 3 way switch seems to be the simplest .



Rock
 

Cubey

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I will have the bed off when I do this, and don't mind doing some wiring, but now I am wondering which way is best. The 3 way switch seems to be the simplest .
Rock

The three wires you need to mess with will be on the frame rail at the pigtail that connects to the FSV. The schematics I posted tell you which 3 are for the gauge. You just have to get run 3 long wires from your switch to that connector and splice them.
 

franklin2

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If you are going to mount a manual brass valve or valves, usually people mount these in the floorboard beside or behind the seat. If you are going to do that, I suppose you could mount your switch for the sending units there also, and not have to run the wires so far. I think I would mount it down inside some sort of box so the switch doesn't get broken off or accidentally switched.
 

nelstomlinson

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. These old scouts are becoming popular again, possibly you could find a good used or nos scout valve. If memory serves, they were brass, and very robust.
The old scouts had gas engines, probably didn't have return lines, so it's probably a 3-way valve, and we would want 6-way.
 

Isaac Ristow

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I second mounting the switch right next to the valve if its accessible from the drivers seat. Otherwise I would honestly just use heavy duty black extension cord its 3 wires I would run the extension cord from the 3 fuel gauge wires to behind the dash and put the switch to them then you aren't messing with the harness at all just extending the wires with the extension cord to behind the dash. I rewired a whole lowboy trailer we used all LED's I ran heavy duty black extension cords up the sides to wire in the mid turn signals and marker lights it looks professional and you would never know its extension cord and its allot cheaper than trailer 3 wire.
 

homelessduck

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I used (2) 3-way valves so that I could pull from and return to any tank I wanted. I also kept the factory switch for the gauges . It was super simple to eliminate the fsv and keep the switch.
 
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