Manual fuel tank selector valves.

[Farmer Rock]

Hey guys, I have been reading some old threads on plumbing manual valves in the cab for selecting tanks in place of the fsv. I am very interested in doing this after the little research I did, mostly because I can still run the dual tanks, but without the fsv. I like the idea of this, since there is no electronics involved except the fuel gauge. From what I read, two 3way stainless steel ball valves, one for the fuel pickup, and the other for the return lines, which seems pretty simple. What do you guy think about this? I am surprised I don't see more setups like this, and wondering if there is a reason. I would appreciate any input on this. Thanks




Rock

 

[CharlesG]

This is even more simple, https://www.amazon.com/GROCO-FUEL-VALVE-PORT-FV65038/dp/B00YMZ3YZM

 

[quickster]

If mine went, I would do it. My last 87, the fsv was sticking. So I took it apart and got it going again.

 

[Farmer Rock]

This is even more simple, https://www.amazon.com/GROCO-FUEL-VALVE-PORT-FV65038/dp/B00YMZ3YZM

That seems like it's worth every penny! I didn't know they made 6 way valves like that. Thank you for the link!

If mine went, I would do it. My last 87, the fsv was sticking. So I took it apart and got it going again.

I wish I had that option, but the PO, not only bypassed the rear tank, but removed the fsv and all the plumbing. In a way it's good, because I can start over and keep it simple.


Rock

 

[Cubey]

This is even more simple, https://www.amazon.com/GROCO-FUEL-VALVE-PORT-FV65038/dp/B00YMZ3YZM

The problem with those is you don't have a proper fuel gauge, since the FSV switches the fuel sending unit that is connected to the gauge in the cluster. You would have to rig up a way for the factory tank selector switch to switch the sending unit being displayed.

 

[rwk]

This what I used, marine grade 3 way valve, about 150$, selector lever is up under rear of seat. You can also turn fuel off.

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[rwk]

Same as one posted above

 

[Fort Ford]

The problem with those is you don't have a proper fuel gauge, since the FSV switches the fuel sending unit that is connected to the gauge in the cluster. You would have to rig up a way for the factory tank selector switch to switch the sending unit being displayed.

Just use the existing electric switch on the dash and wire in a basic switch relay or use the FSV's existing switch. I haven't looked at it so I dunno how it works exactly but it should be relatively doable to just wire it up. Sure, two switches have to be operated to have accurate fuel. But then you can check the level of the other tank without actually switching fuel over to it. Dunno, seems like it could be useful. Or you could rig up the wiring to the marine valve with some creative fabrication to make them both switch on the same lever. I've thought of this problem before and these were my conclusions.

 

[Cubey]

It has a single wire coming off of each sending it that gets connected to a single wire heading to the gauge. So depending which wire is connected, that's what tank is displayed. I have my FSV removed and a jumper wire clip spliced in at the pigtail to always show the front tank level.

 

[franklin2]

If you had a weatherproof box you could use, you could use a single pole double throw relay like the one below in the link.

http://www.learningaboutelectronics...a-single-pole-double-throw-relay-in-a-circuit

Just make sure you buy a double throw type and make sure it's 12v.

Connect one of the coil terminals to the mounting screw for the box for a good ground.

Connect the other coil to the brown/white wire or the red wire. Once you are done, if the sending unit selected doesn't match the label on the dash for front or rear, then swap these wires. One will be taped off, the other connected to the coil.

Connect the com terminal to the yellow/white stripe wire which goes to the gauge up front.

Connect the NO terminal to the darkblue/yellow which goes to the front sending unit.

Connect the NC terminal to the yellow/lightblue stripe wire which goes to the rear sending unit.

All these wires are located at the old FSV location. It would be easy to hook this up if you could keep the weather out of it.

 

[Farmer Rock]

If you had a weatherproof box you could use, you could use a single pole double throw relay like the one below in the link.

http://www.learningaboutelectronics...a-single-pole-double-throw-relay-in-a-circuit

Just make sure you buy a double throw type and make sure it's 12v.

Connect one of the coil terminals to the mounting screw for the box for a good ground.

Connect the other coil to the brown/white wire or the red wire. Once you are done, if the sending unit selected doesn't match the label on the dash for front or rear, then swap these wires. One will be taped off, the other connected to the coil.

Connect the com terminal to the yellow/white stripe wire which goes to the gauge up front.

Connect the NO terminal to the darkblue/yellow which goes to the front sending unit.

Connect the NC terminal to the yellow/lightblue stripe wire which goes to the rear sending unit.

All these wires are located at the old FSV location. It would be easy to hook this up if you could keep the weather out of it.

Thank you for the helpful information! I was worried about how I would hook up both sending units, and this solves that problem.



Rock

 

[Isaac Ristow]

Couldn't you just use a 3 position switch on the dash for the sending unit wires? Or maybe retain the original selector switch?

 

[catbird7]

Back in my younger days I had several (1960's) international scouts that had dual tanks and the valve was manual just behind the driver seat. These old scouts are becoming popular again, possibly you could find a good used or nos scout valve. If memory serves, they were brass, and very robust.

 

[Cubey]

Couldn't you just use a 3 position switch on the dash for the sending unit wires? Or maybe retain the original selector switch?

Yeah, because it's not live 12v for the sending units. Just have to remember to flip the switch for whichever tank you have the valve set to. An on-off-on switch would work if you don't want to mess with the factory switch.

 

[Selahdoor]

Seems to me you could just bypass the fuel part of the fuel selector valve, and leave the electrical part as-is, and it should continue to work.