Left Hand Rear Wheel Will Not Rotate

tradergem

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My 1990 F250 has been parked in the garage for about a year waiting for me to afford to fix some engine related problems. I have recently fixed those problems and the engine runs great now.

However, when I tried to back out of the garage the other day to let the truck idle and warm up without fumigating myself in the garage, the truck wouldn't move. The parking brake was released and I could tell the truck was trying to move but it felt as if something was blocking the way.

I had my grandson watch while I tried to move the truck a second time and he said that the left rear wheel was dragging and not turning. Sure enough when i looked at the concrete I could see the skid mark left by the tire.

I disconnected the parking brake cables and found I could hear the parking brake clicking inside the drum when I pulled on the cable. I removed the wheel and tried to remove the brake drum and it will not come off. My axle is code 35 which is a 10.25 Sterling with open differential so with it up on jack stands and the transmission in neutral I should be able to rotate the drum but cant. Any ideas on how I can get the brake drum off and do you think it is a stuck brake or something else wrong?

Thanks
James
 

FoolhardyIDI

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When you parked it did you leave the emergency brake on? If you did it could have locked the brake shoe onto the drum, causing the issue. The way to get the drum off the shoes would be to use a pry bar and hammer to break the bond. Or get yourself a hub grappler from OTC for $100 and use that.
 

madpogue

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Does the rear parking brake cable going to that wheel actually move when you pull it? Do you see the cable core moving within the housing?
 

Macrobb

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I'd definitely loosen the brake 'adjuster' piece first. It's accessable through that little rubber grommet at the bottom center of the brake backing plate.
You need two screwdrivers - one to pry the 'actuator lever' that turns it normally out of the way, and then just rotate the little 'star wheel' until it's fully loose.
 

pelky350

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Probably not recommended by some but I would try tapping around the drum with a light hammer? Is brake was set that long one of the shoes could be stuck out even though you can hear the park break release them it maybe just one releasing?
 

tradergem

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The parking brake cable moves freely in it's housing. I think all of you are correct that the brake shoes are stuck to the drum. By the way, I already have loosened the brake adjuster all the way. I wish I had a good air compressor and a adjustable rivet gun with a nylon soft set to vibrate the drum without causing any damage to loosen up everything. I often thought that a lot of the specialty tools I used to use on aircraft years ago would be really useful in my garage but could never afford them. Oh well, thanks for the help. I will let you all know how things turn out tomorrow.

James
 

catbird7

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I've had a few of these over the years. Usually result from a leaky wheel cylinder followed by extended storage or lack of use. Brake fluid soaks into shoes (sometimes the lining actually swells) or if the vehicle was parked with parking brake on, both conditions put corrosive brake fluid in direct contact with unprotected raw steel on inner side of drum. The shoes actually rust onto the drum. Sometimes heat works to break the bond followed by multiple blows with a BFH. Some extreme cases require grinding the backside of the backing plate to release the spring attachment points. After you get it disassembled, I suggest replacing everything under the drum (wheel cylinder, shoes, and springs).
 

riotwarrior

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I in no way am saying DO THIS however I can tell you I HAVE DONE THIS

I beat the livin bejehosaphat out of a drum with a 4lb hammer to get it to release and it disnt break...not brake...LOL

I hit between studs on the outer diameter all over the place....would not come off...spun ok but would not come off...stepped up my game to 8#'r and she came off

Just sayin....brute force n ignorance prevails where finesse and elegance fails....

JM7.3CW Eh!
 

tradergem

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Got the drum off after a few whacks with my big hammer:Thumbs Up. I was amazed at how little rust was holding up the brakes. After sanding the thin film of rust off the drum and then spaying the drum and brake shoes with brake cleaner, everything went together and works like new.

I backed the truck out of the garage and let it idle up to normal temperature and a new problem showed it's ugly head. I guess I cracked the solder seam below the upper radiator hose connection when I removed and replaced the upper hose to replace my worn out water pump. So now I have to let the water out of the radiator and let it dry out before I re-solder the upper tank seam.-cuss

Oh well, at least it is a easy fix. Good luck to you all, and thanks for the helpful suggestions.

James
 

icanfixall

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Many years ago my chevy truck rear brakes rusted up.I had just put our 22 ft Wellcraft in the lake at Glen Canyon Utah. Truck sat for 2 weeks while we were on the lake. The parking brake was on all that time. rusted shoes to the drums. Had trouble breaking them loose but reverse rocking finally broke loose the rust.Big surprise after a great vacation too.
 

OLDBULL8

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I backed the truck out of the garage and let it idle up to normal temperature and a new problem showed it's ugly head. I guess I cracked the solder seam below the upper radiator hose connection when I removed and replaced the upper hose to replace my worn out water pump. So now I have to let the water out of the radiator and let it dry out before I re-solder the upper tank seam.-cuss
If you have never soldered a radiator before, I would take it to a Rad shop to get it fixed.
If you do solder it, leave coolant in it up to just below the seam, that prevents the tubes from getting to hot (un-soldered).
Use Hi heat to solder, brush away old solder, solder only 4 inches at a time, let cool, do it again.
 

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