is it nessecary to lower the gearbox?

Bart F-350

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Hello,

I have to replace the Torque converter seal, it's from a E4OD on a '89 F-3504x4 diesel, do I need to lower the whole trans and transfer case?
 

Macrobb

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If you pull the transfer case separately, you have more room to work. You also need to have a trans jack, a harbor freight one should be fine. Those E4OD's are heavy!
 

Bart F-350

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Dang! we don't have a harbor freight here either, I think that I have to mc Giver something with my garage jack and a roll of scotch (tape)...
Thanks for the pointers though!
 

Macrobb

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In that case... a ratchet strap might come in handy(or two). You can use them off the frame rails to make a sling, keep it straight(or at least as a safety if something tips). One ratchet strap around the transmission and the top of the jack to keep it from falling off or sliding should help you.

I've put 1 e4od into a truck. That was... heavy. I had a proper trans jack and did it with a helper. By comparison, the 5-speed ZF manuals are light - I've lifted them into place by hand with just sheer willpower before.
 

TahoeTom

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Never dealt with an E4OD but have replaced the clutch on my T19 by chaining the trans to a 4x4 spanning the trans cover opening and dragging it back after removing the transfer case and cross member. You will need to remove the seat and floor covering. I made some alignment dowels from some bolts with the heads cut off to keep things lined up for the install. You may still need a floor jack to help with the weight. I have also used an engine hoist from passenger door to lower and raise the trans.
 

retiredinhomer

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To change that seal the transmission needs to lowered and slid back about 6-8 inches. Just so the torque converter can be removed to get at the seal. I just did this on my 92 e350 last month . I am down in Phoenix az. for this winter I started on Sunday and was driving it Wednesday. I used what I have here from Alaska. I used 3 scissors jacks, straps and some boards and made a lowering device to lower and slide back the transmission. Even a 2wd has a lot of prep work. Drive shaft, exhaust, transmission lines and crossmember.
the motor needs to be supported when transmission is removed before it is removed. On reassembly I had to have help raising the torque converter. I am old and weak lol.
 

Thewespaul

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Man if you want to do this safely spend the money and get the right equipment for the job. A trans jack won’t just make this job easier but also safer. If you can’t get a jack then take it to a shop.
 

snicklas

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Fellas,

One thing to keep in mind, Bart is in FRANCE!!!!!! This truck is almost a unicorn over there. I'm not sure he would have the option of a shop.... He doesn't have a Horrible Freight or even something like an AutoZone close.

So think stuck in the middle of nowhere with just what you have in the truck..... As safe as possible with what you have....
 

Bart F-350

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Yes Scott, and to make everything even worse, I'm officially out in the sticks over here!!! If I have to order something, it takes at least a (full) week! Not as in Holland, where if you order something from a carpartsplace 5 times a day a small shuttle brings you the piece, nearest small village with a post office and small supermarked: 10 miles...

But I do have the full Mc Giver series of VHS, a roll of Mc Giver tape, my ancient boyscout diploma, and a full 12 years in the armed services, so I guess that I'll manage in the end!

Now if only I knew how to undo the rear drive shaft...:angel:
 

Bart F-350

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no, i'm not, I can't find any bolts where the rear driveshaft is connected to the transfer case, It's a 2 piece driveshaft (4x4 F-350 diesel '89)
 

retiredinhomer

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sorry quick finger. remove drive shaft at rear axle. then remove carrier support bolts from intermediate driveshaft and then driveshaft should lower.
 

david85

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Bart, there won't be any bolts attaching the drive shaft to the transfer case on that year of truck. Once you disconnect the drive shaft from the rear axle, and unbolt the center support bearing (if equipped), the drive shaft simply slips out from the tail housing of the transfer case. Have a catch pan ready in case any fluid wants to leak out from the now open tailshaft opening.

I had to raise and lower my E4OD several times back when I first put it together...many mistakes happened along the way.

I did not have a transmission jack, but I did have a couple smaller jacks and many assorted wood blocks. Each raising and lowering took a good couple hours to do inch by inch. Once the trans and transfer case (yes, I R&R'd them as an assembly) was on the ground, I had to raise the truck to the side slightly in order to clear the frame rail and drag it out from under. I had a fairly smooth concrete floor to work on, but no other specialized tools. However, I did have to roll the truck forward or backward by a few inches in order to clear the mounting dowels. That may not be possible if you aren't working on a perfectly flat area (wheels always blocked!).

It can be very dangerous to do it this way if you're not careful and work alone. I always maintained a support block in each of the three following places:

1: at the bell housing
2: at the tail housing
3: at the transfer case front output.

This gives a tripod arrangement so the transmission can't roll sideways and fall off the supports (and possibly on you).
 
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