icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Thanks for the pics Calvin. You sure found an easy way to install o ring on our injectors safely. I will use this idea next time..
Injector Cap O-ring Durometer
- Thread starter banderso
- Start date
I haven’t done the returns yet, but when I do, I plan on getting O-Ring lube and using Calvin’s tube trick.
There’s a proper installation lubricant for O-Rings, my point of view is, there is enough “special items” to be purchased when working on vehicles, this is just another example....... If I need anti-seize, I use anti-seize, not something that might work.......
For example:
http://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=343
There’s a proper installation lubricant for O-Rings, my point of view is, there is enough “special items” to be purchased when working on vehicles, this is just another example....... If I need anti-seize, I use anti-seize, not something that might work.......
For example:
http://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=343
cheap bronco
Full Access Member
I use the lucas engine oil treatment. U can also use it as engine assembly line.
Macrobb
Full Access Member
Viton O-rings won't be atacked by wheel bearing grease. Show me somewhere that shows that viton isn't compatible with any chemical in wheel bearing grease.
I was going to say, I thought viton was resistant to all fuels, oils, etc.
I originally poo-pooed the viton o-ring idea. My first go round I used my old caps and used Buna-N o-rings you can buy at Tractor Supply in the hydraulic fitting section. They lasted about 5 years, but I started having leaking problems. I thought this was a little too soon, so I did order the vitons from Mcmaster carr. I installed those, still using my old original caps. I just use motor oil and carefuly twist the old caps on it. These have been on there for about a year now, no trouble except that minor leak I had on the filter heater.
I originally poo-pooed the viton o-ring idea. My first go round I used my old caps and used Buna-N o-rings you can buy at Tractor Supply in the hydraulic fitting section. They lasted about 5 years, but I started having leaking problems. I thought this was a little too soon, so I did order the vitons from Mcmaster carr. I installed those, still using my old original caps. I just use motor oil and carefuly twist the old caps on it. These have been on there for about a year now, no trouble except that minor leak I had on the filter heater.
Sidewinded_idi
Full Access Member
I just did my return lines, injectors, and ip last night. One thing I can say is to go with oem ford caps. I took a picture of a brand new ford cap and a Delphi kit from oreillys. The ford cap was smooth and polished inside the Delphi was sharp and rough
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Sidewinded_idi
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Top is oem ford new bottom is Delphi
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O-rings came yesterday. The softer ones are noticeably more compliant, but still fairly stiff. The harder ones feel like the ones that came with the kit. I think I'm going to use the soft ones this time, mostly because I'm kind of curious.
As for lube, I like snicklas' way of thinking. I'm going to use o-ring lube, and lots of it. I'm sure the other suggestions work just fine too though.
I think I've seen the pictures with the vinyl tube posted before. Seems like a decent strategy.
Hopefully I'll have a chance to take another stab at this on Monday.
As for lube, I like snicklas' way of thinking. I'm going to use o-ring lube, and lots of it. I'm sure the other suggestions work just fine too though.
I think I've seen the pictures with the vinyl tube posted before. Seems like a decent strategy.
Hopefully I'll have a chance to take another stab at this on Monday.
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cheap bronco
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Please share where you found new oem caps
Sidewinded_idi
Full Access Member
I’ll post the part numbers but I got luckier than a lotto winner. I go to a lot of auctions to buy heavy machinery and bought a pallet full of new turbos and parts. In one of the boxes was brand new caps, return lines, ford injector o rings and even a brand new top cover for ip with both solenoids installed!
I am glad I kept my old original caps and have been using them instead of one of those kits. No wonder the o-rings leak on those things. I bet the international dealer has good caps also, probably were Ford gets them from. I did buy some international brand glowplugs on ebay awhile back, and they were the Beru's.
Sidewinded_idi
Full Access Member
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Just a coupe of things I'd like to point out.
Just replaced all of my caps, rings, lines and GP's this weekend.
Some of the new caps may leak, and not a cause of the O-rings. Sometimes the caps are a little "loose" and will leak no matter how many O-rings you throw at them. Make sure you save all your old ones for this scenario. I ended up having to use an old cap to replace a new one. No matter what I did to seat the new cap resulted in filling up the GP alley within seconds. Old cap, no leaks first try. And NO.... it appeared smooth and perfect inside the cap. Even though I replaced the O-rings with both new in kit, and one's a purchased from McMaster, all leaked with new cap....very disappointing.
Next thing is, those cloth covered lines that come in the kits are junk in my opinion. They become brittle too quickly. I used a multi-fuel line-on just the IP return to #5 Inj- from Kragen when I first replaced everything about 7 years ago. That line wasn't replaced this weekend because it was still soft and pliable, but every cloth covered line broke when touched. Bought appx 4' of multi-fuel line from O'Reilly's(bought out Kragen) and have the cloth line as spare if I decide to ever use it.
Since I did glow plugs as well, I forgot how snappy these engines fire off on a cold frosty morning when both the fuel and GP systems are healthy. 236k miles on the ODO, and it still fires off as if new!!
Lastly.... I'm reminded that the best thing in the world when doing fuel line work is an electric fuel pump. Those leaks appeared without turning the engine on, and the time saved in troubleshooting was nothing compared to having a mechanical pump and all the aggravation that goes with them.
I hope this helps in some way.
Good luck!!!
Just replaced all of my caps, rings, lines and GP's this weekend.
Some of the new caps may leak, and not a cause of the O-rings. Sometimes the caps are a little "loose" and will leak no matter how many O-rings you throw at them. Make sure you save all your old ones for this scenario. I ended up having to use an old cap to replace a new one. No matter what I did to seat the new cap resulted in filling up the GP alley within seconds. Old cap, no leaks first try. And NO.... it appeared smooth and perfect inside the cap. Even though I replaced the O-rings with both new in kit, and one's a purchased from McMaster, all leaked with new cap....very disappointing.
Next thing is, those cloth covered lines that come in the kits are junk in my opinion. They become brittle too quickly. I used a multi-fuel line-on just the IP return to #5 Inj- from Kragen when I first replaced everything about 7 years ago. That line wasn't replaced this weekend because it was still soft and pliable, but every cloth covered line broke when touched. Bought appx 4' of multi-fuel line from O'Reilly's(bought out Kragen) and have the cloth line as spare if I decide to ever use it.
Since I did glow plugs as well, I forgot how snappy these engines fire off on a cold frosty morning when both the fuel and GP systems are healthy. 236k miles on the ODO, and it still fires off as if new!!
Lastly.... I'm reminded that the best thing in the world when doing fuel line work is an electric fuel pump. Those leaks appeared without turning the engine on, and the time saved in troubleshooting was nothing compared to having a mechanical pump and all the aggravation that goes with them.
I hope this helps in some way.
Good luck!!!
I put the new o rings on today.
Turns out the bottom o ring on injector 1 was damaged. I had a suspicion that's where I'd find the problem. My best guess is that when I tried to re seat the cap after driving several hundred miles, the Vaseline was gone and the o ring tore. I'm glad it was a visible issue - gives me a little confidence the problem is solved.
I used the o ring lube that was linked earlier. Turns out it's some sort of bearing and chassis grease. Synthetic with some additives or something. But essentially wheel bearing grease. I went completely nuts and used a ton of the stuff. It felt like a great lubricant for the job.
I also used the softer o rings. Seemed like they were a little friendlier to install.
It seemed much easier to get the caps to seat properly this time. Probably partially due to experience, and partially due to the better lube.
I'll let the truck sit for a day or two and see how it starts. From my experience so far though, I'd say grease and the soft o rings are the way to go.
Thanks for all the tips and discussion.
Turns out the bottom o ring on injector 1 was damaged. I had a suspicion that's where I'd find the problem. My best guess is that when I tried to re seat the cap after driving several hundred miles, the Vaseline was gone and the o ring tore. I'm glad it was a visible issue - gives me a little confidence the problem is solved.
I used the o ring lube that was linked earlier. Turns out it's some sort of bearing and chassis grease. Synthetic with some additives or something. But essentially wheel bearing grease. I went completely nuts and used a ton of the stuff. It felt like a great lubricant for the job.
I also used the softer o rings. Seemed like they were a little friendlier to install.
It seemed much easier to get the caps to seat properly this time. Probably partially due to experience, and partially due to the better lube.
I'll let the truck sit for a day or two and see how it starts. From my experience so far though, I'd say grease and the soft o rings are the way to go.
Thanks for all the tips and discussion.
