Thanks for the info. No white smoke ,no rattle, but I turned up the pump and im not getting any black smoke either. No power, wot goes nowhere I let off and bring the rpms up slowly she goes. Any thoughts? Thanks Jon
There is a lever on the drivers side of the injection pump (looks like a t-totter) that I believe controls your timing curve while driving. If you get your truck at running temp and pull out on the lever at the top which will push the lever in at the bottom your truck will either run smoother or will start smoking. If it starts smoking your timing is still retarted a few degrees. I did this just to get in the ballpark, this is no means of correctly timing your truck but it worked for me till I find someone that can time my truck. Remember a little movement will change your timing dramatically.
Thanks for that little tid bit, it helped out alot.Still wont start after I shut it off for 10 min. or more without a little gas prime. Im still not getting the smoke that I hear about when the I.P. is turned up, should this be a concern?
No two engines time the same right? so if i take the IP of my parts truck, and note where the timing marks are then try to get it in same spot on my truck, any bets on how it will work?
I checked all the lines and fittings,to my knowledge no wetness. The problem is intermitant with the starting,I installed an electric pump in line in front of the tank selector valve. A splash on a rag held in front of the air cleaner until she fires, I had to change I.P.s I have 4 other 7.3s with various problems but lots of good parts. I turned the pump up all the way then backed off 3 flats.Went clockwise then back, from what I read on this site I think I did it right (mabey not). I apprieciate all the help so far it has been a blessing. Thanks Jon
The hard starting when the truck is already warm comes from 1) Bad pump head 2) Advanced timing 3) Bad fuel shut off solenoid or 4) bad starter. It actually takes more RPM to start an IDI hot than cold. A good starter should make it happen. Those other variables are most likely your issue. There's no way you had the gear cover off and could have made it jump timing is there? Dwight... if you switch your IPs over, they are in fact all different, but I'll bet if you line up those marks you can get it to run well enough to make you pretty happy and not damage anything. You need to get it timed with tools for best results... I say that and I have an MT254 yet still need to time mine with it. Static timing works just fine but you may be giving something up or taking a bigger bite than you wanted to.
No sir , didnt take the gear cover off, just switched pumps. I even kept the lines that were on the motor, the vibration dampeners made it easy.Some one ground off the timing marks on the pump I couldnt tell you why. As far as the pyro, I know it is risky without one so I am keeping a close eye on the exhaust manifolds. My column used to get so hot you almost couldnt touch it, now I can get out of the truck after a ride and touch the manifolds. The column doesnt get hot anymore.Would the pump being turned up to much cause no smokeor no power gain? Thanks for the help Jon
h20drx, it won't really help to leave the lines on but most guys do because its easier.
slam1, it sounds like your pump maybe shot, it sounds like you turned it up right, do you know how many flats you turned it up, you could turn it up the rest of the way. How long does it take to get it started? What rpm does it crank at? When does the problem occur, I'm sorry if you already said some of this.
I read in some of the tech articles/ forum threads that the factory setting on the I.P. is three flats from max, I maxed it then backed off one and one half turn this should be between factory and max. The reason I did it that way is I dont know if any one already turned it up. In the morning cold she fires up no problem, hot starts a different story sometimes it will start hot sometimes not. If I do the rag trick it starts after one to two secs. I never looked at the tach when its cranking but I will. Jon
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