hydro boost

[73idi88f350]

any way to test these off the truck or is there nothing to go wrong? ive found a used one and would hate to install it and buy parts to get it to work and it not work.. also my trucks an 88 and not sure the year of hydro boost( sure part #s would say)i know ill need hoses and stuff but does this year truck need a brake pedal change.

 

[gatorman21218]

yes the pedal needs to be changed or modified.

I know the feeling man. I was thinking the same thing so I got a "new" remaned unit. It was bad right out of the box. So I say run the used one.

 

[73idi88f350]

yes the pedal needs to be changed or modified.

I know the feeling man. I was thinking the same thing so I got a "new" remaned unit. It was bad right out of the box. So I say run the used one.

now thats bad. now if i changed the pedal could the old master and booster work with the newer pedal, and im new to this topic what pedals would i need i do have the zf5

 

[icanfixall]

Your going to need the complete brake and clutch peddle and the hanger it rides in.. Thats no easy item to remove either. To be able to use our standard master cylinders you need to open up the mount holes in it. It will fit ok but it looks odd.

 

[jaluhn83]

You could probably build a test rig, but it'd be way more work than just putting it in and trying it out.

Only thing I can really think of is to look for evidence of leakage, especially from the master cyl end on the booster assembly.

I would strongly recommend using the superduty master - the hydroboost petal pin is moved up so you get less stroke and hence less brake volume which means you could potentially run out of petal stroke in a panic stop with one circuit failed. Plus it just feel much better with the big cylinder.

 

[73idi88f350]

thanks guys figured this would be a big project even tho i have one of the main key parts sounds like the other key part is a fduty Manuel pedal setup and then everything else is cake?

 

[riotwarrior]

thanks guys figured this would be a big project even tho i have one of the main key parts sounds like the other key part is a fduty Manuel pedal setup and then everything else is cake?

All that is needed for real now...

Hydrobooster and MC of choice, I'd recomend the SD MC that is with the booster!

Power steering reservoir, just that plastic tank that is on the superduty not the pump! When you remove the main fitting from the pump that plastic housing can carefully be slid towards firewall and removed as just a single plastic piece. Grab that fitting too btw

The main Hi pressure line from the power steering pump to the booster.

The main Hi pressure line from the booster to the power steering box.

The return line from the booster to the power steering pump reservoir.

If you are swapping from an automatic to a manual transmission, you will need the corresponding pedal assembly for your model of truck.

Just a note, if you LOOK carefully in this thread you will find enough information to figure out that any SUPER DUTY with Hydroboost pedal, regardless of year will in all likely hood fit any year pedal assembly.

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...-up-Std-pedal-assemblies!!&highlight=TECH+101

Thus if you have an 87-91 Auto truck and want to swap to a manual transmission you will need that manual pedal assembly for your model of truck 87-91.

Now take that MANUAL 97-91 pedal assembly and hold it and then lets say you can only find a SUPER DUTY Standard pedal assembly from 92 UP; well just because that pedal assembly does not fit your truck, does not mean that the BRAKE pedal won't fit YOUR pedal assembly! You can swap pedals between years to make what you need.

I've done extensive measuring and comparisons between these pedal assemblies and the pedals are the same from model year to year the hanger/brackets are different and all superduty pins are placed closer to pivot point thus swapping between years is a very good way to make it work.

Or you can redrill you pedal for a higher pin placement and make it work that way too.....

JM2CW on the subject

Al

 

[icanfixall]

Al. Careful on the suggestion that a standard peddle is the same as the auto peddle. I recall Mel went thru a issue with the moose truck converting to hydroboost. The moose is a standard tran rig and he got a auto rig brake peddle. After modifting it he found out it was not going to fit because the standard trans rigs use a larger peddle shaft. So in closeing tha standard to standard and an auto to auto peddle is the right way to go. If Mell reads this maybe he can add something I missed or correct something I posted.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

Like it was said, you need to swap pedals or modify yours to make the hydroboost work properly. A matter of geometry is all it is

 

[riotwarrior]

GUYS...IM NOT SAYING STD pedal is same as auto...I suppose I could word it better.

An AUTO pedal will not fit a standard pedal assembly nor visa versa without extensive modifications to one or the other.

However If you have an AUTO trans truck 87-91 and want to swap to a Standard you can install a standard trans pedal assembly complete as previously mentioned in this thread.

Then if all you can get is a 92 UP std trans Hydro pedal assembly, remove that hydro brake pedal from the 92 assembly and install it into your 87-91 pedal assembly.

IN NO WAY WHAT SO EVER WILL AN AUTO PEDAL FIT A STANDARD PEDAL ASSEMBLY OR VISA VERSA. however FROM YEAR TO YEAR I AM SURE THAT THEY ARE INTERCHANGABLE!!! I can say this with authority for a standard pedal assembly as I have shown in that thread. The brake pedal pin locations for vacuum brakes are identically located and the dimensions of the pedal are the same and so are all the bends.

I cannot say that the pedals for Autos are all the same I don't have any auto assemblies to compare!

I hope this clarifies my post!

Al

 

[jaluhn83]

The easiest thing is probably to just take your current petal, hack the pin off flush with the surface of the petal then drill and weld in a new one 3/4" further up. IIRC it's 9/16" diameter - a standard grade 5 or 8 bolt should work fine for the pin stock (make sure it's long enough the threaded part gets cut off). You'll need to drill a 1/8" cross hole for the retaining clip too.

 

[cpdenton]

Power steering reservoir, just that plastic tank that is on the superduty not the pump! When you remove the main fitting from the pump that plastic housing can carefully be slid towards firewall and removed as just a single plastic piece. Grab that fitting too btw
Al

So, is there any kind of seal or o-ring that needs to be replaced when you swap these reservoirs?

Also, I have been thinking and looking at this booster it have now. I know that the pedal assembly has a pin 3/4 in higher than vacuum pedals, and I can see why because the hydro booster mount is obviously off center. Would it be possible to re-drill the mounting studs on the booster 3/4 in higher than they are now to drop the whole assembly back down? I am having a tough time finding a pedal assembly around here.

 

[jaluhn83]

Well, anything is possible with enough motivation. Not recommended though. I don't think you could just drill holes - might be able to drill another set of hole in the firewall/swing are assembly and do it that way but it'd be a huge pain and really not particularly strong or safe.

The other problem you run into it the change in geometry of the petal - you'll wind up needing to press harder on the petal to get the same braking and will have less travel to get the same effect - so it's going to be more touchy and grabby while at the same time needing more effort.

There an easy way out - just pull your current petal put, but the existing pin off and weld a new one on. Simple.

 

[riotwarrior]

So, is there any kind of seal or o-ring that needs to be replaced when you swap these reservoirs?

Yes a large O ring should be replaced, for that matter all O rings on fittings etc should be done at same time

Also, I have been thinking and looking at this booster it have now. I know that the pedal assembly has a pin 3/4 in higher than vacuum pedals, and I can see why because the hydro booster mount is obviously off center. Would it be possible to re-drill the mounting studs on the booster 3/4 in higher than they are now to drop the whole assembly back down? I am having a tough time finding a pedal assembly around here.

This is my answer to this question with MY OPINION, the simplest method IMHO is to grind weld off on one side of pedal where pin is, press out pin, re-drill pin hole 3/4" higher up pedal arm press in pin and weld pin in place. Then a shouldered bolt fitted to the old hole, you can weld in place etc as needed to fill the hole and keep integrity of pedal arm.

JM2CW

 

[jaluhn83]

Personally, I don't think the effort involved in trying to remove the stock pin and reweld it is worth it - As I recall it's a 9/16" pin, so just cut the stock pin off flush, then drill and weld in a 9/16" grade 8 bolt as the new pin, then cut the end off and drill a 1/8" hole for the retaining clip.