Hvac fan electrical gremlins

Cubey

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Rather than replace the $35 blower motor that does still turn and isn't too noisy, I'm thinking about getting a $6 auto-reset circuit breaker and putting it in the fuse spot. It would be rated 35A, the same as the fuse spec so there should be no overloading of wires. It would still trip and leave me without a blower now and then, but at least I wouldn't have to replace the fuse daily.

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BrianX128

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So originally when this started I couldn't remove my old resistor because my bypass filter and coolant filter were in front of the hvac box so I left it mounted to the box and zip tied the plug with a new resistor in the engine bay.

I know this isn't good but it was an easy way to troubleshoot the problem and get ac back while in a parking lot and it never touched anything metal.

Well what I think was happening was the old motor was so seized that it had ruined both aftermarket resistors I had. I put the spare good greased hvac motor in and it was happy but the resistor was near death.

Plugged the wire harness in the factory resistor today for kicks and tada- all speeds again. 3 is a little faster on the OEM resistor than the aftermarket which is better imo.

Electrical issues are 100% awful.

I also have a good PSA on if you have slower air movement or not cool enough, there is a rubber boot that goes from the bottom of the hvac fan to the box. The box side is on the positive airflow side and I'm guessing this is to push some air at the brush area of the fan and keep it dry and moisture free and I guess the airflow could help keep it cool. Mine on the main truck was leaking air around both ends. It just pushes on but on the hvac box side it's not a tight connection and needed some clear caulking to seal up. You'd be surprised how much air was coming back out but path of least resistance..
 

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