how far would you go?

[Hydro-idi]

You can lock n stitch that crack if you got a shop that knows how to do it well. I had to use that method with my engine and it worked well, since that was my only option. Finding a used "crack free" cylinder head is impossible with these engines.

 

[bj_idi]

You can lock n stitch that crack if you got a shop that knows how to do it well. I had to use that method with my engine and it worked well, since that was my only option. Finding a used "crack free" cylinder head is impossible with these engines.

yea man finding heads for these engines is impossible. I had no luck and gave it a solid try. i hope I don't have an issue with that spot down that road. Thats one of those things thats gonna continue to give me an un easy feeling. I should have looked into lock n stitching or welding before but they are done and ready to go now.

 

[bj_idi]

Would you guys run these pistons?
They measure out good, also had the block decked .008, the fire ring grooved the block. was thinking of taking the same off the pistons to be safe with protrusion.. could I take .010 off the piston with no issues?
I'm looking at a re main kit or a rebuild but I'm leaning toward the re main as of now

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[bj_idi]

Clean deck surface

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[79jasper]

I think the idea is to not have material taken from the piston face, instead have the wrist pin recessed.

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[Sidewinded_idi]

I'd run the pistons, with such good cylinder condition just ball hone them and go. I was reading your first post and was going to say just hone the block, throw new main and rod bearings and go. But from the pics it looks lik e previously mentioned you need a line bore.



I'd re-ring it at this point but if I were you and I had it decked 8 thousandths I'd throw the pistons in a lathe and cut the same amount off the top. These have a strict piston protrusion spec as well as valve spec. So if you had the heads re surfaced see if they ground the valves to sink em in to factory specs. I've read a lot of stories of fresh motors hitting valves due to machine work.

 

[Sidewinded_idi]

But it's amazing the crosshatching at that mileage!

 

[icanfixall]

our engines run well with the piston protruding out of the block as much as 31 thousands. With the head flat the only reason the piston doesn't hit the head is because of the head gasket thickness. Thats bout 72 thousands thick. The piston will miss hitting by bout 40 thousands in stock form. Best safe bet is mill the 8 thousands off the top of every piston to be sure. Knowing the head thickness is VERY important. Stock is 4.795 to 4.805. If you do not know what the thickness was before the milling then you best find out before you install the heads. also the valves have a critical depth they must set in the heads. Now you may already know all this but I did not read any measurements in your posting.

 

[bj_idi]

Just took a quick measurement with dial caliper 4.795, I didnt measure before or know how much they took off but I do know they re-cut the valve seat it should be in spec. The shop used to do a lot of the u haul trucks and we're really framiliar with the heads. I also didn't see a number scribed of what they took off. I agree to be on the safe side I'd like to cut pistons the same as the deck surface. Still going to measure protrusion after it's assembled. Probably stick with my pistons have them cut and get a re main kit

grooved the head as well around fire ring could that be from loose headbolts?

 

[towcat]

is this a manual trans motor? ie....was a manual trans living behind the motor?
if so, that accounts for the wear on the trust bearing surface.
btw, this is not a block in 300k of wear. 200k I'll believe.
presonally, I'll pressure check and sonic check the block and I would put it back together with new bearings. esp cam bearings. plastigauge as you go.

 

[bj_idi]

is this a manual trans motor? ie....was a manual trans living behind the motor?
if so, that accounts for the wear on the trust bearing surface.
btw, this is not a block in 300k of wear. 200k I'll believe.
presonally, I'll pressure check and sonic check the block and I would put it back together with new bearings. esp cam bearings. plastigauge as you go.

It's an auto e40d but melted 2-3 gears togeather a little ago and had trans rebuilt. Had a shift kit and still does now shifts pretty firm. The trans had been previously gone thru before that as well. That last pic I posted the cylinders had been honed if your referring to that crosshatch. Cam bearings are in, had the machine shop do them. I agree fully with that. I might even throw it togeather measure out piston protrusion then decided whether to cut pistons

 

[bj_idi]

Do you think cutting .010 off the tops would destroke it a little bit too or just keep it the same as what came off the deck?

 

[icanfixall]

We can SAFELY cut 14 thousands off the pistons. Others have done more than double that with no issues. My suggestion is cut the same 8 thousands off the pistons. Thanks for measuring the heads. You are easily in spec but not knowing how much they cut off is not something you can deal with now.

 

[bj_idi]

We can SAFELY cut 14 thousands off the pistons. Others have done more than double that with no issues. My suggestion is cut the same 8 thousands off the pistons. Thanks for measuring the heads. You are easily in spec but not knowing how much they cut off is not something you can deal with now.

I hear that! appreciate it Ill prob give the guy a shout tomarrow and see if he has the low down on it..for kicks If they took .004 off the heads to resurface but sunk the valves the same, would you add .004 to .008 to be cut still

 

[bj_idi]

https://www.amazon.com/Non-Turbo-Di...-Available/dp/B01MAWS8VY/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t

what do you guys think about this? not sure if it comes with valley pan gasket

I know its been discussed many times and I've read a lot of older threads but is it still just fel-pro and victor for head gaskets?