How do you tighten the bottom line on the IP ?

royzell

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Hi All,

My 7.3 (with turbo and intercooler) is leaking fuel. Naturally it is the line 'down in the valley'. More specifically, passenger side, bottom. If facing from the front of the truck, and the IP lines are a clock, this is at about 6:30.

I have moved the throttle line and vacuum lines out of the way, and removed the 2 lines above it. I can almost get a wrench on it, but there is no room to move it.

Does this take a special bent claw foot wrench of some type ?

Any suggestions appreciated....
 

icanfixall

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Yes it is a special Rotunda wrench but. Try using and bent wrench. Determine the size you need and then heat it up and bend in in a vise. Thats how most here make the injection pump wrench.
 

1dieselman

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Do you have crows foot wrenches? That and a short extension is without a doubt the easiest way to get to them
 

In2Fords

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I used a bent wrench I borowed from KWilliams. It woked but I decided to take off all the lines and start from scratch. I removed every single line from both the IP and the injectors and was able to get to each one with just a open ended 5/8's.
Good luck, Jeremy
 

HammerDown

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HARBOR FREIGHT...12 bucks...offset box wrench and I cut a slot into it to use as a line wrench.;Sweet
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RLDSL

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otc makes a special socket loks like a o2 sensor socket only in 5/8

Does it look anything like this one that snappy makes I had looked at those and it looked like there wouldn't be enough swing room between that wide shoulder area and it only being a 6 point, it pretty well limited the available movement in a confined space. It looked like I would be gambling on all the flats being in just the right position to be able to get on them and still being able to turn far enough to be able to get another bite without running into a line. That's why I opted for the 12 pt crows foot, never a problem there.
 

royzell

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I got it fixed today. I got off work early, and...
I removed the vacumn lines and throttle linkages, including the bracket that bolts to the intake. I then worked my way from top to bottom removing fuel lines. Finally I undid the offending line at the injector. and slid a 5/8 box wrench over the nut, twisted it down to the bottom of the IP, and got about half a turn on it. I then reassembled everything (using my parts truck to help when my frazzled brain couldn't remember the order for the lines).
'Fired it up, after the coughing and sputtering, got out and looked, and the bottom line was still squirting diesel !
So, I joyously took everything apart again (getting quicker this time), until I could remove that offending bottom line. It looked OK, but I rummaged through spare parts and found a duplicate line. I installed the 'new' one, put everything back together yet again in the aforementioned manner, fired it up, and the leak was gone !
There was however, a new one at the drivers side rear injector. I put on new O-rings (which luckily I had a couple on hand). Now fuel leak free and running smooth ! Maybe my fuel mileage will improve.
Whew ! Good thing I love my truck !
 

icanfixall

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I sure hope that all the hard line vibration dampners are reinstalled too. There are 2 per side of the motor. If not you will be breaking more lines. Its just part of not haveing a dampner.
 

Double-S-Diesel

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Does it look anything like this one that snappy makes I had looked at those and it looked like there wouldn't be enough swing room between that wide shoulder area and it only being a 6 point, it pretty well limited the available movement in a confined space. It looked like I would be gambling on all the flats being in just the right position to be able to get on them and still being able to turn far enough to be able to get another bite without running into a line. That's why I opted for the 12 pt crows foot, never a problem there.

no it is pn 7460, but I cant find it on the otc site, Ive had it about 8 yrs though, it is the same as what ford tool is and it works great.
 

RLDSL

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no it is pn 7460, but I cant find it on the otc site, Ive had it about 8 yrs though, it is the same as what ford tool is and it works great.
That thing can be found here That thing is almost identical to the snap on socket ( not surprising since OTC and snap on are in the sheets together )
 
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