Lines at Inj. Pump question

[yotekiller]

Hi all, been awhile since i been on.. so after some very lengthy time and life going on i have decided to try once again and fix the 7.3 hard start issue.. been awhile since i changed GP's all are dead again.. looks like GP controller is shot again.. anyways i was noticing dampness on the bottom line at back of the Inj. Pump.. is there O-rings? on these or do they just screw down on the inlets, its also possible the dampness is coming from the steel line from the filter head down to the pump as i noticed it is moist looking as well, i figure i need to take care of these issues before GP's and controller.. i know the metal lines just screw down on the injectors but was not sure on the back of the Inj. pump itself. i did at one point change the return lines on the truck but i am noticing the passenger side all seem damp, drivers side is dry... any suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks

 

[Cubey]

Hi all, been awhile since i been on.. so after some very lengthy time and life going on i have decided to try once again and fix the 7.3 hard start issue.. been awhile since i changed GP's all are dead again.. looks like GP controller is shot again.. anyways i was noticing dampness on the bottom line at back of the Inj. Pump.. is there O-rings? on these or do they just screw down on the inlets, its also possible the dampness is coming from the steel line from the filter head down to the pump as i noticed it is moist looking as well, i figure i need to take care of these issues before GP's and controller.. i know the metal lines just screw down on the injectors but was not sure on the back of the Inj. pump itself. i did at one point change the return lines on the truck but i am noticing the passenger side all seem damp, drivers side is dry... any suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks

The high pressure lines from the IP to the injectors don't have seals. The return o-rings on the injectors under the plastic caps don't count, those are only see very low pressure. But the low pressure, hard inlet line from the fuel filter to the IP does have a rubber "olive" seal and that can leak and cause hard starting.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

But the low pressure, hard inlet line from the fuel filter to the IP does have a rubber "olive" seal and that can leak and cause hard starting.

Just adding a little bit more. It's also the most likely place to leak in my opinion. That's where I would start.

 

[yotekiller]

thanks men.. i knew the caps had o rings but was not sure about the lines connections on back of the IP.. think im gonna get a kit from Classic diesel, change returns, etc.. New GP's and controller.. i did pick up a check valve today im gonna install if i am thinking correctly between the tank and the Lift pump..

 

[Cubey]

The controller is probably fine. The relay on top of it is what goes bad usually. But if you're sure it's the controller, go for it.

 

[Big Bart]

thanks men.. i knew the caps had o rings but was not sure about the lines connections on back of the IP.. think im gonna get a kit from Classic diesel, change returns, etc.. New GP's and controller.. i did pick up a check valve today im gonna install if i am thinking correctly between the tank and the Lift pump..

Only buy genuine Motorcraft glow plugs, others are known to ballon and get stuck or break off in the head.

 

[DaveBen]

Beru makes Ford glow plugs. If you see Beru they are good to buy.

 

[yotekiller]

yeah the ZD9 Beru's are the only ones i put in that truck.. i checked them yesterday every one of them are dead as a squished cat lol...

 

[MommaHobbit]

thanks men.. i knew the caps had o rings but was not sure about the lines connections on back of the IP.. think im gonna get a kit from Classic diesel, change returns, etc.. New GP's and controller.. i did pick up a check valve today im gonna install if i am thinking correctly between the tank and the Lift pump..

A whole new controller and relay is a pretty penny. Cubey is right, the controller rarely is the issue. Its basically a little solid state hard drive so unless its crushed its probably good. I have the manual instructions on how to test both, let me know if you want it. Itll take ya all of like ten mins to test it and it could save you some dinero $$.

 

[yotekiller]

A whole new controller and relay is a pretty penny. Cubey is right, the controller rarely is the issue. Its basically a little solid state hard drive so unless its crushed its probably good. I have the manual instructions on how to test both, let me know if you want it. Itll take ya all of like ten mins to test it and it could save you some dinero $$.

if that's not much trouble, just msg me or here those instructions..
Thanks a bunch

 

[yotekiller]

A whole new controller and relay is a pretty penny. Cubey is right, the controller rarely is the issue. Its basically a little solid state hard drive so unless its crushed its probably good. I have the manual instructions on how to test both, let me know if you want it. Itll take ya all of like ten mins to test it and it could save you some dinero $$.

well i have a new return set up on the way, new GP's and a updated glow plug harness, have not determined if the controller is bad to my ability it seems to be working correctly.. all the plugs are dead now take its been a but since i replaced them but pulled 2 and they came out easily, when i first got this truck i took advice and soaked and ran the truck before pulling the plugs, thankfully they were Beru's.. i can't say that for the 96 i now have a issue with

 

[papadiesel]

I have to chime in about controllers I’ve been working on them for almost 40 years the timing unit under the controllers are a big issue and can imitate a bad solenoid because they are filled and youreally can’t diagnose the electronics underneath easily, buying Motorcraft controllers are the smartest route to go, others have gone to heavy duty solenoid but the timer is still an issue unless you go to manual, it’s individual preference and ditto on ZD9 just be careful Of the fakes You can tell the fakes by check in the top with a magnet should be magnetic and there is a crimp above the nut part of the glow plug

 

[yotekiller]

I have to chime in about controllers I’ve been working on them for almost 40 years the timing unit under the controllers are a big issue and can imitate a bad solenoid because they are filled and youreally can’t diagnose the electronics underneath easily, buying Motorcraft controllers are the smartest route to go, others have gone to heavy duty solenoid but the timer is still an issue unless you go to manual, it’s individual preference and ditto on ZD9 just be careful Of the fakes You can tell the fakes by check in the top with a magnet should be magnetic and there is a crimp above the nut part of the glow plug

yeah the way that controller is set up was not good, simple went out the window and they complicated things, book smarts won out instead of common sense when it came to design and functionality .

 

[yotekiller]

The high pressure lines from the IP to the injectors don't have seals. The return o-rings on the injectors under the plastic caps don't count, those are only see very low pressure. But the low pressure, hard inlet line from the fuel filter to the IP does have a rubber "olive" seal and that can leak and cause hard starting.

Cubey do you know where the olives go? other than at the line that goes to the INJ. pump...

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Cubey do you know where the olives go? other than at the line that goes to the INJ. pump...

They go on both ends of that line. There's also one in the line from the lift pump to the filter. It's at the top where the line goes into the brass fitting. If you have the steel return line off the top of your pump, then there's one at each end of that too. Those were only used on 6.9s though.