How do you guys deal with the clutch slave cylinder?
- Thread starter franklin2
- Start date
I looked on mine today and sure enough, there is a allen screw that takes a 5/32 allen wrench. Turn it a little bit and fluid starts pouring out.
I still can't get the clutch to disengage. I got under the dash and investigated, and found if I disconnected the master pushrod from the pedal linkage, the pedal would go on up to the upper bumpstop. That is telling me I don't have enough travel in my pedal system, so I went ahead and pulled the master cylinder out and took a hacksaw and cut the pushrod. I cut it on the large portion, and it turns out it's close enough to 3/8 to be threaded 3/8-16. I am going to thread both sides, and I got a long 3/8 nut that is used to couple all-thread together. This will make the pushrod adjustable so I can make it longer and I will see if that gets me anywhere.
When I got the donor truck, it ran and I could drive it around the yard, but the clutch would not disengage. I don't know why I thought it would start working when I swapped the whole thing over to my truck.
Be very carefull here! Based on your comments, it is my opionion that you do not have the fork installed properly. In all likely hood, the fork is Behind the TOB instead of In it as it should be. You will not be able to get the clutch to engage properly with it like this. 
Well, I finally got it(a relief to all on this board probably).
As far as the fork arm being installed improperly, during the slave install battle I did find out that one of the little spring fingers that holds onto the pivot ball was trapped underneath the arm instead of behind the ball like it was supposed to be. But after I fixed that, I made sure it was engaged properly.
I re-installed the master today and adjusted the rod to give me all the travel I could get without putting pressure on the master. It felt better, so I got the rest of it together and started it up, and the gears were still clashing. I put it in 5th, and then ****** it down into reverse and backed it out of the garage. Turned it around(still scraping gears) and started down my driveway. My driveway is very steep and by the time I got to the bottom the clutch was working a lot better. I took it for a spin down the road, and the more I drove it, the better it got, so it still must have had some air in it. What a relief.
As far as the fork arm being installed improperly, during the slave install battle I did find out that one of the little spring fingers that holds onto the pivot ball was trapped underneath the arm instead of behind the ball like it was supposed to be. But after I fixed that, I made sure it was engaged properly.
I re-installed the master today and adjusted the rod to give me all the travel I could get without putting pressure on the master. It felt better, so I got the rest of it together and started it up, and the gears were still clashing. I put it in 5th, and then ****** it down into reverse and backed it out of the garage. Turned it around(still scraping gears) and started down my driveway. My driveway is very steep and by the time I got to the bottom the clutch was working a lot better. I took it for a spin down the road, and the more I drove it, the better it got, so it still must have had some air in it. What a relief.
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Good to hear you've got it squared away.
Heath
Heath
