How do you get to the steering box adjustment!

[DrCharles]

I am trying to access the $%^& steering box adjustment on my '93 F250. Yes, there is play between the input and the pitman so I know it's in the box. Will be buying a Red Top soon but want to wait for warmer weather. Meanwhile I just want to tweak it slightly.

Ford really outdid themselves making this nut (and hex) difficult to reach. It was very easy on my '84 F-150 smallblock but that big diesel takes up a lot of space. From above it's pretty much hidden under the PS pump pulley and belt. From the side (through the fender liner opening) I can see it clearly but I can't reach in there well enough without jacking up the truck and removing the left front wheel. Haven't looked underneath yet but I don't think my arm bends that way. I have moderately big paws so getting into tight spots has always been challenging.

Any tips? Thanks.
-Charles

 

[Thewespaul]

Take the serpentine belt off, if you break the lock nut loose first from underneath it’s much easier. A long extension makes the screw much easier to reach

 

[DrCharles]

Thanks, I'll try that. Any idea what the size of the nut (and hex bit) are, to save me some fumbling around in the old grease?

 

[Thewespaul]

Pressure wash it first if you can. They seem to vary alot, in my 93 the lock nut is 15mm and the adjustment screw is a flat head

 

[DrCharles]

Out of town for the moment, will have another crack at it next week.

Meanwhile, are there any tips & tricks for removing the steering box? (I do know the basics of disconnecting everything that goes to the box first)

It looks like removing the left front wheel and working through the gap in the fender liner will give the best access to the PS lines and the rag joint clamp. Thoughts?

I'd also like to replace the rag joint while I'm in there but have read that some replacements don't fit?

 

[red41neck]

Be sure and mark the position of the adjustable screw with chalk or paint.
Mine moved when the lock nut was loosened. Makes it easier to see how
much you adjust it.

 

[Kahunias-J-puppy]

I am trying to access the $%^& steering box adjustment on my '93 F250. Yes, there is play between the input and the pitman so I know it's in the box. Will be buying a Red Top soon but want to wait for warmer weather. Meanwhile I just want to tweak it slightly.

Ford really outdid themselves making this nut (and hex) difficult to reach. It was very easy on my '84 F-150 smallblock but that big diesel takes up a lot of space. From above it's pretty much hidden under the PS pump pulley and belt. From the side (through the fender liner opening) I can see it clearly but I can't reach in there well enough without jacking up the truck and removing the left front wheel. Haven't looked underneath yet but I don't think my arm bends that way. I have moderately big paws so getting into tight spots has always been challenging.

Any tips? Thanks.
-Charles

Just changed mine out and had to replce the 3 bolts on the box....STRONG ADVICE: use nothing but GRADE 8 BOLTS..i dont know if they are going to come with your new box but if you need them go thru ford...I USED Grade-6....(wrong answer) the bolts snapped in 4 weeks and i lost control of the steering....

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[red41neck]

Adjusting screw is opposite end of the pitman shaft. Lots of photos on the internet.

 

[Kahunias-J-puppy]

Adjusting screw is opposite end of the pitman shaft. Lots of photos on the internet.

I have a 94 F-250 and the steering nox is secured with 3 bolts. Which can be directly observed in the left inside wheelwell, right above the tire...those 3 bolts NEED to be GRADE 8
..I think bc they are case-hardened steel....and can handle the extreme pressure applied. When the wheel is turned....don't make the same costly mistake I made...its only one hundred dollars to fix..but now add a 30 mile TOW is 225.00 and the truck being down for a days business So now the cost is up around $1100.00 for me..just saying

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[DrCharles]

Adjusting screw is opposite end of the pitman shaft. Lots of photos on the internet.

You don't say.

Did you read my posts? I know where it is and how to adjust it, all I wanted to know is the best way to get the appropriate tools in there, while disassembling as few other things as possible...

 

[raydav]

You don't say.

Did you read my posts? I know where it is and how to adjust it, all I wanted to know is the best way to get the appropriate tools in there, while disassembling as few other things as possible...

Mine I get with a crows foot socket on a long extension.

I have had three rebuilts, all sloppy. I destroyed one in the driveway by over tightening.

 

[franklin2]

When you eventually pull the box off, carefully inspect the frame around the mounting bolts, and the rivets that hold the front crossmember to the frame right behind the box. The frame has a tendency to develop cracks around and behind the box, and there is a TSB on loose rivets on the front crossmember to frame rivets.

 

[DrCharles]

Thanks for the tips! I'll look closely at it. If there are cracks, can they be welded or is the frame junk?

 

[franklin2]

Thanks for the tips! I'll look closely at it. If there are cracks, can they be welded or is the frame junk?

They can usually be repaired.

 

[Christian9112]

To stop the crack from growing bigger, drill a small hole at the ends of the crack. It is not a fix, but will prevent it from getting worse.