Homemade Glow Plug Harness Question

X-NRCan_IDI

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It seems to be about time for a new GP harness and considering online sources I've seen are at $150 before tax/shipping, its a bit pricy for me.
I found instructions over on FTE on making your own harness and it seems pretty simple and straight forward, but I'm wondering about the use of "fusible link" wire... the instructions call for two lengths of 10 gauge FL wire, one for each head coming from the GP controller, and then 8 lengths of 14 gauge FL wire to connect the 10 gauge wire to each glow plug.

My question is... Can I just use regular 10 gauge wire instead of the FL wire for the two lengths from the controller? Wouldn't it be redundant to have both 10 gauge and 14 gauge FL wire?

Haven't been to the local stores to look for any materials yet but an online search failed to bring up any 10 gauge FL wire.. only 14 and 16 gauge from NAPA.
 

79jasper

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Well if you have a pushbutton setup, it's a lot easier.
But if you can wait a bit, call up Mel.

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IDIoit

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when i built mine, i took the old one apart and found it to be 10 gauge all the way through.
i decided to grab the 8 gauge i had, and make my own.
i didnt use fuseable link.
spliced open the wire, soldered, and used liquid shrink wrap.
ive been running it for about 2 months without a hitch.
used female round connectors, and some 5/16 fuel line to insulate them.

maybe i shoulda used fuseable link?
 

X-NRCan_IDI

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I've thought about going to manual push-button but there is likely to be more than just me driving it in the future, so I'd prefer to keep the controller. Nothing is set in stone though of course.
My understanding is that the fusible link will burn out rather than some other part of the circuit if there is a failure, rather than having more expensive parts go bad. So basically the wire acts as the fuse, which is why I'm thinking that having the whole glow plug harness as fusible link is redundant if the wires from each GP is fusible link wire.
If your setup was all 10gauge and you used 8 gauge with no issues so far, I can't see how some deviance from the instructions I found would be an issue, but I'd rather hear from people who know more than me!
 

gandalf

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Here's how I ditched the fusible link GPC power.



Your method isn't too clear, Ron. Your posting is blank between the above quote and your sig block. Nada. Nothing. It's a big empty space.:confused:

Does this mean you eliminated everything involved? And this is a picture of what is left?:eek:

Want to try again?
 
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Your method isn't too clear, Ron. Your posting is blank between the above quote and your sig block. Nada. Nothing. It's a big empty space.:confused:

Does this mean you eliminated everything involved? And this is a picture of what is left?:eek:

Want to try again?

In his post, the first word is a hyperlink. Click it.

Mike
 

jhenegh

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Haven't run it yet, but I made my harness a bit different than what's been said so far

I made two harnesses each with 4 identical runs of 10ga wire to a bullet connector. I soldered them all into a 4ga copper lug. One goes to driver side, one to passenger. I connected the two lugs to the stud on the factory controller. I used scrap 10ga trailer brake wire that was too short for any trailer wiring runs.

Each plug has its own dedicated 10ga run of wire and all 8 are identical so they should all get equal power, assuming I didn't screw anything up between the two lugs.

Should have the truck running within the week so I can report how it works soon....
 

79jasper

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Here's how I ditched the fusible link GPC power.

Well today it's smelling like spring out and am itchin to get the Gold one back on the ground.

I decided it is high time too get those pesky fusible links out of the glow plug system and go to a more stable power source.
Yup, gots me a mega fuse and retainer assembly today.:love:
Dang they aint kidding when they say mega!

So I plan on removing the 2 fusible lings and wire all the way up to the GPC and start fresh with some 4 gauge wire and tap into the the black wire off the solenoid. MOunt the retainer next to the solenoid and call it good.

I'm tired of replacing fusible links and now is the time!

Ooops, parts numbers

Fuse retainer NAPA 782-1143
Mega Fuse Napa 782-1142

Made in the USA!

Pics to follow.



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X-NRCan_IDI

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Thanks for the info! I'll update this thread when I've gotten something put together... with my luck, or so it seems, there's a 50/50 chance whatever I try will work! ;Poke
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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your right x-nr.the whole works doesn't need to be fuseable link.just like any circuit on your truck is protected in the same manner.be it using a fuse or fuseable link.so long as the weak point can burn up/blow and not catch on fire lol!
so yes.you can run normal wire with a fuseable link (smaller gauge) to protect the circuit.it does no good for the whole harness to be fusible link wire.like you say,would be redundant.
besides this i wouldn't do it that way.cus if it heats up and brakes you can't just go to the one spot to replace the link.it would be improper to build it that way.you want it protected in the one location only.the stock location is a fuseable right at the power source where it runs off the fender mounted solenoid.this makes for ease to diagnosing and resolving an issue.
 

jhenegh

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So if none of the wires are fusible link wires, one should put a mega-fuse or some equivalent between the controller (or button) and the glow plugs themselves that protects any shorts AFTER the controller?

If so I'll need to get one...
 

ironworker40

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Does anyone have a source for the glow plug connectors? There has to be somewhere to buy them. I used bullet connectors but I am not happy with them. Another thought is the next time I change glow plugs I will use the 6.9 spade style. Connectors are plentiful for them.
 
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OLDBULL8

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ronworker40
Does anyone have a source for the glow plug connectors? There has to be somewhere to buy them. I used bullet connectors but I am not happy with them. Another thought is the next time I change glow plugs I will use the 6.9 spade style. Connectors are plentiful for them.

Here is 2 versions of GP controllers showing the Fusible link wire sizes and location. The 83 GP controller is a completely different style and I believe used 6 VDC glow plugs. The connectors on the plugs seem to be the harness Mfg. priority, at least I cannot find them anywhere. The 16/14 to 12/10 AWG bullet connectors are available at most any auto parts store.
 

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ironworker40

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Here is 2 versions of GP controllers showing the Fusible link wire sizes and location. The 83 GP controller is a completely different style and I believe used 6 VDC glow plugs. The connectors on the plugs seem to be the harness Mfg. priority, at least I cannot find them anywhere. The 16/14 to 12/10 AWG bullet connectors are available at most any auto parts store.
Spade or bullet connection they are all 6 volt and I believe all the same dimensions, although I have never physically put the two together. I cannot see any problem using the spade gp"s on the solid state system. As a matter of fact I just remembered that my 1987 6.9 had bullet type with a solid state controller, so they most certainly are they same dimensions. I can't believe we cant find those connectors. International has to buy them from someone.
 
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