Heater control panel burnout

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Well coming back from ice fishing last night, I got a big whiff of an electrical burning smell.

I didn't see anything coming from the hood area and it seemed that the smell was coming more from inside the cabin.

I made it to the house but was dark and both Nick and I were frozen still from being on the ice.

I did manage to pull the trim bezel from the radio and heater control area and with that the aftermarket radio slides out with the trim piece as well.

I discovered a fresh burn mark on the top of the radio which definitly had to come from the controls, which did seem hot but I did have the lights on.

I didn't get into it any further last night just due to all the elements I had stacked against me so will be digging into it this afternoon. Good thing is it's up in the 20's today.

Looks like the Beef is gonna be a parts donpr again I think.

Has anyone had an issue with this?

What am I getting myself into?

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I am going to follow your findings.

Ever since I removed my blower-motor and cleaned a five-gallon bucket of junk out of it, and removed my evaporator box, cleaned it out, and washed the evaporator, flushing out the drain, I have a constant slight "hot wire" smell in my cab.

It has been there for months with no fire or smoke, no blown fuses.

It comes and goes; or, I just get used to it and don't notice.

As much **** as I dug out from around the blower-motor, it is a wonder that I hadn't had a fire in there.

 

[towcat]

ron-
the only electrical part to the heater control panel is the heater blower switch. Pull out the panel and check the switch and check the wiring to the connector. Also follow the wiriing the best you can to the blower resistor pack and make sure the wiring is healthy as well as the resistor. There's been many Fords and Dodges that have died an untimely death due to the resistor catching fire.
Also, you can power the blower off the battery if you don't have time or its too cold to put the panel back together in one day. the airduct doors should default to defrog position so you should have heat while you go to work and stuff.
I've go an extra 87-91 hvac panel to send you if you really need to but I doubt the problem really is there outside of the switch.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

There's been many Fords and Dodges that have died an untimely death due to the resistor catching fire.

Where would this resistor be on my 1985 Ford??

How do I tell if it is "healthy"??

Thanks.

 

[towcat]

Where would this resistor be on my 1985 Ford??

How do I tell if it is "healthy"??

Thanks.

someone else is going to need to take and post that pic. I don't have one of those on my CD here to post.

 

[typ4]

Since this is related ,I just wired up a bosch high amp relay to run the hot to the blower motor to take the load off the dash wiring, shows 1 more volt on the voltmeter, Stewart Warner not Ford. The fan is a lot louder now also, It was easy and I will make some pics and diagrams with pionters and wires and things for those of us that wear bifocals .

Anyway the fan switch and resistor just switches ground to the motor ,not positive voltage.
Sorry if this is off topic but these trucks dont have the best wiring in them.
On the 80 to 86 trucks i think the resistor is below and to the right of the blower.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

On the 80 to 86 trucks i think the resistor is below and to the right of the blower.

On which side of the firewall, cab side or engine side??



I am looking forward to the relay installation tutorial; as, that may be the solution to the notorious FORD anemic blower speed syndrome.

Thanks.

 

[The Warden]

On my truck, the resistor is inside the air box. When you remove the blower, looking into the hole, the resistor will be below and to the right of the hole.

IIRC it was put inside the air box so that the steady flow of air could keep it cool (or so the theory goes)...

 

[adrianspeeder]

I've go an extra 87-91 hvac panel

'87- early '88 are a bit different if'n ya got AC.

You must be registered for see images attach

Adrianspeeder

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Well I finally got some time to dig into it this afternoon and as suspected.
NICE, just nice.

Not only the switch but the harness connector as well.

Looks like I have my work cut out now.

Gonna have to remove alot of wire protector to see if'n there's any hidded damage. I couldn't see any melted wiring an inch back from the connector, but after that it's all wrapped in tape and I really didn't feel like messing things up any worse.

Anybody know if that connector can be purchased aftermarket.

 

[Darrin Tosh]

Hey Ron, think I bought one from NAPA a while back, if not it looks like I will be getting in a parts truck this week, I will let you know what becomes available.

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Hey Ron, think I bought one from NAPA a while back, if not it looks like I will be getting in a parts truck this week, I will let you know what becomes available.

Sounds good.

 

[Agnem]

I would think you could get a pigtail to replace that connector from any of those "help" areas in the autoparts places. Glad you found the problem!

 

[typ4]

That harness is pretty short and I think it is seperate from the main, at least the ac truck, you should be able to find one in a yard.
good luck and I will get the diagram posted for the relay conversion.
russ

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

On my truck, the resistor is inside the air box.

Pray tell, what year model is your truck??

Mine is 1985.

Thanks.