Great deal on a new turbo

[DrCharles]

Sent email to Wes... does anyone know the part number for that o-ring? I'm having trouble finding it. I think it's this one:

Garrett Turbocharger Backplate-to-Compressor Housing O-Ring

Shop for Your Diesel Engines | Garrett's Aftermarket Diesel Engine Parts | Turbo Backplate To Compressor Housing O-Ring 4030690064 | OE# 36838, 73136838

www.mddistributorsstore.com

but it might be this one:

Garrett Turbocharger Backplate-to-Compressor Housing O-Ring

Shop for Your Diesel Engines | Garrett's Aftermarket Diesel Engine Parts | Turbocharger Backplate To Compressor Housing O-Ring 4030690162

www.mddistributorsstore.com

Does anyone know if the compressor is a T04B or TO4E? I'll take some measurements of the o-ring groove tomorrow and see. Meanwhile the truck is down... hope I don't have to haul anything for the next few days!

 

[DrCharles]

It was easier to find the p/n with the numbers off the old center section:
1819744C91. That is also known as a 466533-0001 (complete Garrett turbo).
With that info, it did not take long to find the o-ring is part 403069-004.
Under two bucks, so I ordered two. You don't want to know what UPS shipping cost

 

[IDIBRONCO]

You don't want to know what UPS shipping cost

I'll COMPLETELY agree with that. When I bought a new pair of coil springs a couple of weeks back, the shipping from UPS was $116. I almost fainted when I saw that. They aren't that big or heavy. Of course just about any shipping is CRAZY these days.

 

[ttman4]

You don't want to know what UPS shipping cost

Yesterday I shipped a cardboard box to my son in Texas. Weighed bout a pound or 2. Was about 12"x12"x12" ..... Cost $59+....nearly $60. Just regular shipping, nothing fancy.

 

[Big Bart]

I believe the big shippers are all kissing the rears of the online retailers and giving them all the low rates. Then porking those who ship occasionally with super high rates to make up for it.

I used to be able to ship 70 lbs in a large Home Depot box from CA to NE for $65. Ten years later it’s $120-130, about double. I rarely ship anything to my house in Maine because it’s like $150-160!

So it is cheaper to pay full boat and buy local in ME or off Amazon than on sale in CA and ship.

My go to shipping is now $40 for a extra large duffle bag on the airline as my second checked bag. (One for each family member.) 1/3 of UPS and FedEx.

Just wait till Amazon starts to become a UPS/FedEx for hire. Perhaps then prices will come back to reasonable.

 

[DrCharles]

Got the o-ring today (the ebay seller is clueless and responds slowly. He insists the too-small one goes over the backing plate flange. I sent a pic of the groove in the compressor housing it's supposed to go in, and haven't heard back).

Anyway... Pro tip: Carefully mark the clocking of both the compressor and turbine housings! If the exhaust side is off even a little, the up-pipe will not align and you have to take the entire assembly out again which is such fun. DAMHIK. I made a couple hours extra work for myself by disassembling too fast.

Everything's together except the band clamp on the elbow. That's another fun piece to try and get two hands and a socket wrench on...

But now I have a problem - while lying atop the engine, I managed to break the nipple off the #5 return line cap It's the first one from the IP to an injector, so it has nipples at right angles.

Can somebody please send me one in the mail... truck is down until I get a replacement (except for maybe a short test run). Thanks!

 

[Big Bart]

I don’t have one, perhaps someone else can help. If you get in a pinch and have a O’Rielly’s in town, they can get the kit the same day or next day.

 

[Brian VT]

My truck is in semi-storage for the winter so I could loan you my part but I won't be able to get at it until Monday at the soonest. If it will even fit (your truck specs. aren't in your signature).
Keep us posted.

 

[DrCharles]

I'll check O'Reilly (we actually have two). It never occurred to me that the chain stores would have something useful for my old IDI
Edited to add: They have the entire kit... for $57.99. Ouch. I replaced the hoses and o-rings (with Viton from Mcmaster-Carr) just a few years ago... all I need is the cap. I may try and fix it first!

 

[Big Bart]

1) Don’t blame you, they are pricey.
2) Hopefully someone has a old one laying around and can help out.

 

[DrCharles]

It occurs to me that the local Ford dealer might have one on the shelf (not likely, but possible). Naturally it's now Friday night... sigh.

If anyone has a spare, the one I need has the nipples at 90 degrees, not inline. Thanks for any help... now I have to check and see if I have early or late style caps!

Edit: late style.

 

[DrCharles]

Caps are late-style (1/4"). That's the one O'Reilly has.

Another possible solution I thought up: block the broken-off opening with JB Weld putty, which I have, then tee the line from the IP rotor into the return hoses somewhere else... that only requires a 1/4" barb tee.

It also occurs to me that after four years (but few miles), the caps might be getting fragile anyway, although nothing was leaking. Maybe I should buy the set! I have plenty of spare Viton o-rings, too. At least I'll be on the road today (assuming the $209 CHRA isn't a POS).

 

[DrCharles]

Truck is back together I decided not to hack the fuel line repair and have to mess with it again next week, so I went to town and paid the $63 with tax for a Standard Motor Products return line kit (comes with injector copper washers which I'll need someday). I got everything back together eventually, but not without a struggle (that band clamp for the downpipe-to-elbow connection is behind the engine and requires two hands that are smaller than mine)... went for a drive, the turbo is working! No ugly scraping noises.

The smoke when I roll on the pedal is definitely reduced if not eliminated (pump is already turned up 2 flats), and it makes 6 lbs of boost just going up some low hills on the back dirt roads. The boost comes up sooner and quicker than the old turbo. I can hear it "breathe" when I suddenly let off the accelerator under boost - the old one didn't do that. Must be spinning faster.

But I was expecting more boost... I am sure I shortened the wastegate rod about 3 turns when I first put the turbo on. Next test will be to wire the wastegate closed and disconnect the pressure line to the actuator, and go out on the highway where I can floor it at 50 mph and stay on it. I suppose it's still possible that there isn't enough fuel now - who knows how old my IP and injectors are... the gauge does seem to stop rather abruptly at 6 psi though.

Now there's a coolant leak at the radiator cap - that's what I get for lying on top of it so many times, even with a folded shipping blanket. It doesn't appear to be leaking from the solder joint. I'm crossing my fingers I just have to straighten the sheet metal flange on either the cap or the filler neck... I hope it's not the tank to core joint .

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