Getting ready to do ip and injectors

[boosted power]

Since I don't have a big torch; I cut a notch in it, bent it, and welded it. You can also buy those kind of wrenches.

A straight box wrench should work, it's just tight.

 

[gandalf]

Small and slender hands won't really help. It's not a question of access for your hands, but access for the wrench. Not only are the angles tight, but the clearances past the nuts and studs is a problem. The wrench cannot be very thick. To make your own you must heat it, bend it, and grind it thinner.

Here is a picture of the "official" wrench found in (I believe) the snap-on kit.

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I believe somebody here has drawn up plans, angles, thicknesses, and such, for a make-it-yourself wrench.

 

[icanfixall]

Well, besides the first viedo being really wrong about the gear cover the maker didn't use a torque wrench to tighten the injectors to 35 lbs and if he removed the pump the correct way he didn't torque those three bolts to 25 lbs. Those three bolts that hold the pump drive to the gear are about 1 inch long. As I posted yesterday they are the same as the u joint bolts. A lucky person could do the pump removel and installation is all the planets were in alignment and mr murphy was on the other side of the universe. For me I don't want to be lucky. I want things to be correct the first time. Another way of looking at this is lets say you miss the gear timing by one tooth. You are not going to see it. Now you fire up the engine and its out of time badly. Usually you can't rotate the pump far enough to get it to time correctly. So now you remove the pump and gear again... Now you have found that the gear timing has moved from the correct position when you first removed the pump... So where is the correct timing marks... You really can't ever see them meet up with the gear and pump and cover attached. Those red marks mean nothing now because you ran the engine and have no idea where any marks are Now finding number one top dead center is a tuff job. There is no way to feel down in the cylinder like there is on a gasser engine. So you have to remove the number one glow plug or injector and slowly crank the engine till you hear air rushing out. Watching the timing tab at the crank will tell you how close you are to tdc but it will not be close enough to tel you exactly that. So now you remove the gear from the cover and pump. See the "Y" timing mark on it. Hopefully you have the "Y" on the cam gear exactly correct and drp in in place. A very thin inspection mirror sometimes can sneak down in the front cover to show the marks. That injection pump gear will slide back some but not much so you might be able to see the timing marks... Now after you have done all this second effort because you did something wrong in the first place... Like the first viedo... Will you ever do it again incorrectly... I'm not thinking so. But if you or a friend does you know this site is here to help fix things....

 

[snicklas]

One thing that I have seen in several posts, and seems to be a point of confusion and not cleared up.

On the 6.9 Engines, the fill tube is a metal spout, with a metal lid that bolts to the access point for the pump bolts.

You must be registered for see images attach

On the 7.3 Engines, the fill tube is a metal opening cast into the top of the IP Gear tower, with a plastic lid and a flat plate that bolts onto the access point for the pump bolts.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Agnem]

I watched a guy at the rally last year repeatedly pick up his pump gear housing and move the teeth around to try and get his timing to the point where my meter would read it. It was an excursion in futility.

 

[icanfixall]

Thanks snicklas for those great pics. To others following this thread. Any injection pump gear cover will fit any 6.9 0r 7.3 idi...Only real differance is the type that does not have the access hole for the tach sender. But generally speaking the 6.9 has the removeable oil fill spout and the 7.3 does not. Look closely at the pic of the 7.3 engine and you see this is on a serpentine belt engine and it has the tach sender in it but the 6.9 does not have a tach sender. But it has the location for it. Also the 7.3 appears to have the oem hose clamps on the radiator lines and the heater return line that bypass to the bottom of the radiator still.

 

[dagreendeville]

hey sorry to be off topic but messages are down atleast for me for some odd reason anywho i recieved your payment this afternoon 4/10 i should have the ip off and shipped by fri as soon as its shipped ill get you a tracking number

 

[icanfixall]

hey sorry to be off topic but messages are down atleast for me for some odd reason anywho i recieved your payment this afternoon 4/10 i should have the ip off and shipped by fri as soon as its shipped ill get you a tracking number

Is this statement directed to me or Mel or someone else... I'm confused...

 

[gdhillon]

Thanks all, I will go out and plan my attack tmo since ill be working around there anyway (some ****** decided to bust my marker lense and turn signal lense)

Gary, I bought the pump for the baby mouse rebuild from green deville.....btw I never did get your name, and thank you for the pleasant transaction

 

[gdhillon]

scoped it out today, there is a whole lot of crap covering the timing cover...and the rest of the engine. After a quick wipe down of the injectors I found they are grey.

When I pressure wash should i take the intake filter off? And then duct tape saran wrap or something over the inlet? What im worried about is getting water in the intake. And if the engines hot is it still ok to spray it down (ill have to drive to car wash)

 

[gdhillon]

any1 wanna chime in on the cleaning procedure?

 

[boosted power]

Pull off the air filter, and tape that intake up really really good. Or you might try a latex glove with a rubber band around it. Whatever you use just make sure it can't get blown off while you are cleaning. I don't know how the CDR is set up on the N/A trucks, but if it plugs into the filter housing you need to cover that too.

Hitting the engine with cold water should be fine, as long as it's not glowing orange or something crazy. When you are done you might try to get all the water out of the valley on top of the engine, I worry about it migrating. This is especially true for the ATS turbo setup where the stupid oil drain just plugs into a grommet on top there.

 

[gdhillon]

Ok thanks, I'm Not sure about the cdr either

 

[dagreendeville]

gdhillion my messages still wont send but ive sent the pump out already and he should have received it, i sent it out before the friday i said i would sorry for the off topic

 

[dizdak]

the more i read posts on these IP swaps the more i think i would rather pay someone to do mine when the time comes!!! they are expensive to begin with and it seems like there is high chances of screwing something up if not done very accurately...