Fuel filtering setup...thinking out loud...

[ghunt]

So I've been toying for awhile with the idea of adding an auxiliary fuel filter to my truck and/or swapping out the stock filter and head with something else entirely, especially with the new IP and injectors going on soon.

I had two concerns with that though...#1 I don't want to lose the heater in the factory filter head (though I have been thinking about running the fuel through the radiator tranny cooler prior to final filtering), and #2 I wasn't sure what to do with that "return line" or whatever it is that runs off the passenger side fuel rail and back into the head. What IS that for exactly?

I have an electric pump and I'm planning to run a 30 micron pre-filter for it...beyond that I don't know. I have a spare filter head from an old dozer that I have found can fit filters from 30 microns clear down to 2 (this is the same filter head on the pre-filter). I also have a Goldenrod Water-Bloc sitting on my shelf that I'm doing nothing with.

How viable of a setup would it be to run a 30 micron prefilter, through the electric pump, then through the Goldenrod, through the radiator tranny cooler and finally through a 2 or 6 micron final filter before it goes into the IP? Is that just way too much complexity? The spin on filters for the filter heads are cheap and the 2 micron filters are huge (7" long) which means they would almost never need changed if I did run one.

Don't mind me...

 

[Dave7.3]

Might be just me, but that sounds pretty complex for filtering.

What is the micron rating of the goldenrod that you have? I'm not finding the micron rating for the ones I use on the ranch fuel barrels.

Keep in mind, your stock fuel filter is a 12 micron filter (at least the napa equivalent is). I would think if you wanted to add to the current system, maybe putting a 2 micron filter arrangement right before the IP? That would eliminate your concerns about circumventing the stock system.

...or are you trying to avoid replacing the spendy stock filters? Thought just came to mind when I looked up micron ratings. $41.49

EDIT: $21.58 for the same filter on fleetfilter.com. Note, that is the improved one that eliminates the stupid stock base while retaining the drain/sensor ports. (part #3617)

 

[ghunt]

The stock filters are ridiculously expensive...I'm using the Baldwin filter that eliminates the stock base, it was a LOT cheaper than the regular replacement filter (and I don't know why they've gotten so out of hand).

From what I've seen I guess the Goldenrod is a 10 micron...

I guess I was really just thinking about pitching the stock filter head completely....ah I dunno.

I'm not trying to make it overly complex...everything but the filter up by the engine would be down along the frame really.

BTW- the filters are a hell of a lot cheaper on filterbarn.com. They're the ones I got my Baldwin from originally. http://www.filterbarn.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=PS6554A

 

[Simp5782]

I have a 60 watt battery pad heater wrapped around my stock filter element on the engine. Im not to sure if my internal heater is working or not. and on cold mornings here dont wanna risk it. I also have a Fram C7518 filter in each line before the tank selector and one right before the lift pump. the C7518 is for JD and Case Tractors. Just use a 5/8 npt and slip it in and slice the line with rubber line. I also have the no bowl filter for mine on the head setup. It runs around $17 from Carquest. Its a wix its an 85217 It just has a draincock on the bottom of it. Its around $75 in filters but they r sure to keep all the crap out of the system.

 

[idi traveler]

I put a wix 24006(?) in front of my factory filter, it a 10 micron. Plus a prefilter that one with one of the clear in line filters. Cheap insurance the wix is $9 and the inline is a couple of $ if you shop around. What every you do, seal all of your fittings with ultra gray. Or air leaks will eat you lunch!

 

[Dave7.3]

The stock filters are ridiculously expensive...I'm using the Baldwin filter that eliminates the stock base, it was a LOT cheaper than the regular replacement filter (and I don't know why they've gotten so out of hand).

From what I've seen I guess the Goldenrod is a 10 micron...

I guess I was really just thinking about pitching the stock filter head completely....ah I dunno.

I'm not trying to make it overly complex...everything but the filter up by the engine would be down along the frame really.

BTW- the filters are a hell of a lot cheaper on filterbarn.com. They're the ones I got my Baldwin from originally. http://www.filterbarn.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=PS6554A

Sounds to me like alot of work around to get rid of the stock setup, probably just me though. I do like the idea of a goldenrod on the frame rail!

Thanks for the line on filterbarn, unfortunately I have always had problems with their search function.

 

[ghunt]

Their search function is a little wonky but it seems to me like the best way to use it is to get any competitor's part number (Baldwin, Fleetguard, Luber-Finer or whatever) and put it in the x-reference box, and hit search. It will give you the Fram number, you click on that and it will give you a whole list of equivalent filters. They carry a lot of brands- International, Cat, Wix, Napa, and Fram plus the ones named above.

And their filters are CHEAP! Ones that I've been seeing for $10 elsewhere are sometimes $3 at filterbarn. Shipping is $9.50+ but you still come out ahead if you're buying a few filters,