Fuel filter light comes up what could be the cause?

KansasIDI

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I just put ATF in the tank year round as a fuel lubricant, and Power Service during winter. White bottle for above zero, and red bottle for below zero. It is super expensive, but, the company I work for uses it, have gelled up equipment that wasn't winterized, but, only ever gelled up one thing that was, and had been sitting for awhile, and, we were trying to start it in -48*... and it was kinda gelled up. Got it to run off of Power Service Diesel 911, the red bottle, and then after more cranking and ether spraying, it fired up and knocked like hell. So I am a believer in that stuff. It's overkill.
 

Booyah45828

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Bottle of biokleen, idle it for half an hour to mix it all up, then let it sit and do it's work.

Afterwards, use a bottle of clear diesel for a few fill ups and carry spare fuel filters with you. You're going to need them.

Then, you can run either the silver bottle if above freezing, or the white bottle if below at every fill up. Shouldn't be needed with good fuel, but you apparently don't have that.

I'd suggest finding a better fuel source, there's no reason to suffer through this bullchit, but I'm not familiar enough with Europe to know if that's easy or not.
 

Bart F-350

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I'm not really sure if we can find a better fuel source here, it's the government prescribing the oil companies to mix this stupid mix, if it had been still the old mix with sulphur, this wasn't happened, I'm sure!

I think what have provoked the first algae, was the 4 year period that my transmission was overhauled, and so I couldn't drive the truck. but then, this summer I cleaned the whole shebang, and used another filter set up, (which proved too small in flow) because I find that a 75€ filter from new to cut open in 5-10 minutes, that's STUPID! But in order to get the truck running again, and all the problems I have had with the too small filter set up and the contamination in the fuel system, I'm almost at the end of my magic box with solutions, so this afternoon I decided to switch back to the original filter set up,with a new filter, and as I said before, within 10 minutes back to the first day I discovered that I had a algae contamination *&%%$ and that while using the shock treatment of Acticide cmg, a biocide, i think comparable to dieselkleen.
 
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Bart F-350

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I might have seen a bit of light at the end of the tunnel, After my truck broke down at the side of the road, and I got her home with my tractor, I left her for a week, (busy with other things) and just when I tried to restart her, after a bit of hesitation she started again! a bit of shuddering around 1300RPM, and the filter restricted light came on first time at 2000RPM, second time at 1500 RPM, so I think I'm still in the orange, not yet red zone.
I'm thinking of "polishing" the fuel in the tank, and install another new filter.
and hoping I'm good afterwards!!!
 

Bart F-350

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Hmmmm, I'm now about 4 hours into "polishing" my fuel, that's something Boaters do once and a while, to prevent, or get rid of algae contaminations. In fact nothing else than recirculating the content of your fuel tank through a magnet and fine filter with water separating capabilities.

So I'm 4 hour into that, and I cannot see anything bad through the clear bowl of my (external) filter, and also the electric pump runs well.

I wonder what was the cause that illuminated, on my spanking new filter , the restricted filter light?
I connected the external filter to the little rubber hose that goes into the mechanical fuel pump in front of the engine, almost in the frame rails.
so could it be a dab of algae still in that vertical fuel pipe into the filter head?
I don't know????
anyone?
 

Booyah45828

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That light turns on because of vacuum in the system.

If your lift pump is going south, the injection pump can pull a vacuum on the filter head, triggering the light. Check fuel pressure and go from there.
 

Bart F-350

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That light turns on because of vacuum in the system.

Check fuel pressure and go from there.

I would like to know what tool/gauge I need to use for that, I have not such a tool in my collection as far as I know. and 5 Psi is a low pressure.
 

Bart F-350

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All right, and then there is no fuel coming into that gauge?
(I had the idea that when fuel comes into that gauge, it's broke?)
 

Booyah45828

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Gauge is a dead end, so unless you really overpressurize it, fuel shouldn't flow into it, so long as the gauge is upright with the barb end pointing down.

Maybe a little will work it's way up the tube, but it's not going to have gallons flowing into it or anything.
 

Bart F-350

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I don't know how you measure that fuel pressure at the schraeder valve, I got such a gauge as per your suggestion, but it just didn't work, couldn't make the connection work.
On the other hand, when the engine run, I pushed the small needle, and the fuel came out,very much alive! That's good!

Today I warmed up the engine, after I "polished" the fuel, and I discovered two things;
1* the fuel-filter leaked, And I wonder if that is what caused the "filter restriction" light to come on?

2* When warm, I ran the engine at 1600-2000 Rpm for a few seconds, and then let it go back to stationary, where it started to shudder.
What I wonder here, is: could it be that the filter is still restricted partially, and the engine running at such Rpm's is aspiring all diesel fuel out of the IP, causing the engine to shudder until the lift pump manages to get the IP filled up again?
Or would it be something else?
I have made two video's from that.
sorry for the shaking in the short one.

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Bart F-350

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Bottle of biokleen, idle it for half an hour to mix it all up, then let it sit and do it's work.

Afterwards, use a bottle of clear diesel for a few fill ups and carry spare fuel filters with you. You're going to need them.

Then, you can run either the silver bottle if above freezing, or the white bottle if below at every fill up. Shouldn't be needed with good fuel, but you apparently don't have that.

I'd suggest finding a better fuel source, there's no reason to suffer through this bullchit, but I'm not familiar enough with Europe to know if that's easy or not.
Hello Booyah,
do you use that stuff you reference to?
I did some research to it, and as far as I can find that clear diesel fuel tank cleaner, does nothing if your tank or filter is already contaminated, only thing here is to manually clean your tank/filter, I think it's better if you are aware of that?
So however well meant, it doesn't help me, sorry.
 

Booyah45828

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Yes I do.

Not sure where you're reading that it does nothing. It definitely emulsifies water and breaks down the sludge in the tank. If it's really bad, it might just be pis*ing in the wind, but for most that I've come across, the method I provided in post 41 and 62 works. I just did this to a truck a month ago.

The silver bottle from them working can be debatable. I haven't seen tests done to verify if it lubricates and cleans like it claims. For fuel lubricants, most have something they prefer and I really don't care to argue with them about it. If they ask for a recommendation, I'll typically tell them hotshots, as they seem to have lubricant engineering figured out. I rarely use or sell any of them, though. The winterizer in the white bottle works for gel protection, as does the 911 as a "hail-mary" for freeze ups. I use the winterizer a lot. I haven't used the 911 in a year or so, if you use the white bottle like you're supposed to, there's no need for the red.
 

Bart F-350

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Well, I followed the clear diesel fuel and tank cleaner link in your post 62, and if you read the directions on their website it says;" If possible, pump or drain excess water and fuel contaminants from bottom of fuel tank until diesel fuel appears"

and I'm not sure if we here in Europe can get that product?

On the other hand, did anyone see my video's? can you see the shudder in the engine?
I think I might see some proverbial light at the end of the tunnel???
I really do hope so!
 

Booyah45828

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I think their goal with that statement is if the tank is half full of water, to drain the water off until fuel appears. You'll never emulsify a tank that's half fuel half water with a pint of cleaner. The purpose of the product is to clean out residuals in the tank/system that naturally find their way into it. It isn't a miracle worker, so if your tank appears murky and gross like a bog, dumping the contents and physically cleaning everything is what's likely needed.
 

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