Fuel Additives

[geno8769]

My "new" truck has been sitting for 4 years.

What is everyones recommendation for diesel additive?

Thanks.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Summertime = one-ounce of TC-W3 two-cycle oil per gallon of fuel.

October 15th to April 15th = same ratio of two-cycle PLUS the recommended dosage of WHITE-bottle Power-Service; I have long-hauled livestock all over the country and never had a fuel-gelling issue.

It has pretty much been proven that most, if not all, of the so-called "diesel fuel conditioners" are nothing more than glorified paint-thinner, doing more harm than good.

 

[fields_mj]

Where does one buy this WHITE-bottle Power-Service. I'm new to diesels too, and I haven't seen it before. Then again, until a month ago I never had a reason to look...

 

[Diesel JD]

The white bottle has an anti gel additive, most good auto parts stores carry Pwer Service, both types. I used to use it, now run B100 and don't worry about additives except I use some diesel in the winter to lower the gel point.

 

[RLDSL]

Howes meaner power cleaner is some great stuff., but if it's been sitting 4 years, you should also put some dedicated algae killer in there like Kill-em to get rid of the critters or you will likely be fooling with filter problems for a while, as it is, get a couple of spare filters. That kill-em will knock a bunch of critters loose from the tank walls.

 

[geno8769]

Thanks

 

[HammerDown]

Where does one buy this WHITE-bottle Power-Service. I'm new to diesels too, and I haven't seen it before. Then again, until a month ago I never had a reason to look...

My two local WalMart's carry both white/grey bottles.
As mentioned prior our IP's and injectors seem to really like the two stroke oil (TC-W3) in with the fuel.

 

[icanfixall]

I like Syanadyne Performance Formula. I run 4 ozs in every tankfull. It adds lubrisity and cetane. DIS in Pheniox Az has the best deal on it. I bought 6 gallons of it (thats 2 cases of 1/2 gallon jugs) on my way to the rally. Cost was $200.00. It sells for as much as $34.00 per 1/2 gallon jug here in So. Ca.

 

[1994Diesel]

I like Syanadyne Performance Formula. I run 4 ozs in every tankfull. It adds lubrisity and cetane. DIS in Pheniox Az has the best deal on it. I bought 6 gallons of it (thats 2 cases of 1/2 gallon jugs) on my way to the rally. Cost was $200.00. It sells for as much as $34.00 per 1/2 gallon jug here in So. Ca.

Thats good stuff, I revived a free bottle of it from my local injection shop and i really like it, ive been meaning to go back and get some more.

 

[ne buckeye]

I like to use Marvel Mystery Oil,in my clean fuel tank,the other one gets 50% used motor oil.

 

[funnyman06]

Ive read marvel is not the best to use, if i remember correctly it reduces the lubrication properties of the fuel.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Ive read marvel is not the best to use, if i remember correctly it reduces the lubrication properties of the fuel.

You are correct.

MMO, along with just about every other fuel-conditioner that claimed to add lubricity, actually decrease lubricity, seeing as how they are comprised of mainly paint-thinners, such as toulene, naptha, and plain old mineral spirits.

A lot of two-dollar-a-gallon paint-thinner has been passed off as seven-dollar-a-quart "fuel-conditioner" under many fancy brand-names, many with a loyal following that will defend their attributes to the last drop.


Whatever brand of conditioner you choose, do your own investigation as to what the stuff actually is, and don't just swear by it purely because you don't want the rest of the world to think you got took.

 

[Andylad13]

If its been sitting definatly throw in the power service for the algea. however, for an anti-gel, since before last winter i've only been using supertech tc w3 only. I use it about 1/2oz per gallon in the summer, ( I had a metering valve problem, and before i used TCW3, I used lucus upper cylinder. That freed it up and since using 1/2 oz TCW3 for over a year it hasn't returned.) and 1 oz per gallon in the winter. Last year it was the only anti-gel I used and never had an issue. The coldest temp that I had to start the truck was only -7*F though. I'll will be doing the same setup for this winter also.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

My 29-year-old truck became "algae"-infested, definitely not from sitting, just from having three tanks and accumulation over many years.

Many many trucks are heavily infested with diesel bacteria; but, with the factory fuel-system it goes completely un-detected, mainly due to America's reliance on disposable "canister"-type filters that hide what is really going on in the fuel-system.

Also, these disposable screw-on can-type filters have no reservoir for sediment to collect, so instead, any sediment clogs the pleats of the filter.

With a proper sediment-bowl catching all of the big stuff, the filter will last a long time only having the fines to deal with.

Many is the fuel-stop that has been blamed for bad fuel, when what actually happens is the in-rush of fuel stirs up all the trash in the tank; two miles later, some of this **** gets sucked into the fuel-line and stops up the too-small fuel-filter.

Put a CLEAR SEE-THRU sediment-bowl in the system, ahead of the actual fuel-filter, and it is completely educational just what all one will find.

Previously un-beknownst to me, there is a screen hidden in the inlet of my piston-lift-pump.

That screen got completely blocked with slimy fungus.

I installed a simple clear plastic in-line filter ahead of that screen and it was constantly getting plugged with the same fungus, commonly mis-named "algae" which it never has been, as genuine algae MUST have sunlight to exist; this stuff only thrives in darkness and will die when exposed to light.

After tons of research, I found that there was no magical cure available in a bottle; marine sites are loaded with information on this and the general consensus is not to waste your money on pour-in "algae killers".

What I have done, that has maybe not completely eliminated the "algae", but sure keeps the fuel going through my pump as clean as a whistle, is to install a gauntlet of filters and seperators.

First in line is a See-Thru Bottom-Drain GoldenRod seperator/filter; I highly recommend one of these and it is amazing how much filth settles to the bottom of it's bowl, before otherwise clogging any filters.

Next in line is a genuine LUCAS/CAV glass-bowl water-seperator/sediment-bowl; this catches any water before it gets to the lift-pump.

Connected directly to the LUCAS is a genuine De-Bug magnetic bacteria killer; I researched this heavily before plunking down my hard-earned cash and it sure seems to do exactly what it claims, believe it or not.

Next in line, as a final defense ahead of that hidden screen within the lift-pump inlet, is a plain old see-thru plastic in-line filter; I had much rather any trash stop within this simple-to-replace filter, than to clog that near-impossible to service screen while going down the road.

Last in line is the factory fuel-filter mount that has a water-seperating filter with integral bottom drain-valve; this drain-valve is actually made onto the filter; you buy a new filter, it comes with a new valve.


Since installing this array of fuel cleaning devices, I have not had one engine shut-down issue due to a clogged filter; and, it doesn't cost me a cent to rinse out a sediment-bowl, plus I can actually SEE what is coming through my fuel-lines.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

To add to my lengthy post above, considering the action of a properly operating diesel fuel system, at most, maybe one-tenth, and probably a LOT LESS, of the fuel that is cycling through the lines/filters actually gets burned.

The rest of the fuel is lubing and cooling the injection-pump; the more fuel cycling through the return-lines, the better for your pump.

Understanding that, the fuel that is in a tank will actually pass through the filters many many times, before it blows out the smoke-stack.