***** - Installing IP, Injectors, Return Lines, and GPs

[eatont9999]

Well gee, where do I start? Three long months ago I installed new injectors matched by Russ, a U-haul/IFS DB2-5028 24946 IP, return lines and ZD-9 plugs. The pump has a torque screw and looks like a turbo pump.

I have a 16 page thread over on ford-trucks.com that some of you may be following. If not, please check the link below.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1070552-installing-ip-injectors-return-lines-and-gps.html

I understand if you don't want to read 16 pages of my foolishness so feel free to ask your question here and I will post a response.

The problems I am having are hotter than normal temps, more smoke than usual even under light acceleration and shaking at idle. Oh, yeah, did I mention I get 8 MPG? The reason I started this project was to increase my MPG. I was going to take this truck on a 4000 mile trip but now I don't trust it at all.

I have swapped in and out new and old IP and injectors so many times in my troubleshooting I forget the number of times. Currently I am running the old pump (reman at some point, not original) and the new injectors. It is running better than any time with the U-haul pump but it got into the A in "NORMAL" on the gauge yesterday during mixed driving. I had the A/C on and it was 106F out. It started to smoke and shake at idle more as it got warmer. It is only at 3.6BTDC using the pulse method but that is as far as I can turn it for right now. I need to readjust the lines. It still smokes less than the new pump turned down 2 flats at 9BTDC with the torque screw 1/4" turned in.

Check out my link, there are some good videos I posted, too.

 

[Agnem]

Who or how are you timing your pump?

 

[eatont9999]

Mel,

I have a Rotunda timing meter with a pulse adapter on the #1. I power the unit, set the timing dial to -20, insert the RPM probe into the port next to the bottom pulley, adjust the RPM pickup until I get a reliable reading of around 650-750 RPM, let the truck warm up as far as it will just idling, hold the throttle on the IP as close or at 2000 RPM as I can get and adjust the pump until I get 8.5 BTDC on the meter or close to it.

The truck seems to run well when it is cool but once it warms up, I get excessive smoke and the shaking increases. Usually that means the IP is going but it does it on the new IP and I never noticed it on the old one until now.

I know you know your IDIs, so I am hoping you can help me get this old girl back on the road.

Thanks.

 

[Agnem]

Well your timing method is spot on. You ARE using the upper probe hole (the taller one) not the bottom one, correct? Can I also assume you have never unbolted your pump timing gear cover? The shaking at idle is a dead giveaway that something is not right. The injectors you are using... regardless of new or old, you have pop tested them to verify they are good?

 

[typ4]

They were good when I shipped them. Sounds pumpish to me also.

 

[eatont9999]

Well your timing method is spot on. You ARE using the upper probe hole (the taller one) not the bottom one, correct? Can I also assume you have never unbolted your pump timing gear cover? The shaking at idle is a dead giveaway that something is not right. The injectors you are using... regardless of new or old, you have pop tested them to verify they are good?

Well, you got me on the probe hole. My probe won't fit into the top hole, so I assumed I was supposed to use the one it fits in and that would be the one on the bottom.

I didn't take the timing gear cover off but the water pump was replaced by the dealer. I'm not sure what is involved in that or if you have to take any gears out but if so, I can see them screwing that up. They weren't very bright.

 

[subway]

you usually have to clean out the probe hole with a 5/16 drill bit before the probe will fit in cleanly. dont ask me how i know

 

[eatont9999]

Russ, do you clean the injectors when you test them? I have heard of people finding bits of machining debris in new injectors.

 

[typ4]

No and I have never found any junk in the ones I have tested/reset. Yet.

 

[punkmechanic]

could be wrong ( happens time to time) but it sounds like the uhaul pump is bad or iffy at best. I have noticed that these pumps dont like to be "messed with". I have pulled pumps on my truck and while moving them out of and back into the truck they tilt and whatnot. I have noticed different performance reinstalling a pump that ran fine before pulling (ex. pull pump from parts truck that runs fine and install on good truck with suspect pump(leaking), good truck now runs strange albeit better with known good pump)

I think this is due to "crude" in the fuel. Much like and old carb if the sediment gets disturbed it gets in places that it shouldnt and affects all aspects of the pump.

Can you get the injectors popped and pump rebuilt in your area? If there is a local or semilocal shop that is good, it would be worth it just to have the peace of mind.

Punk

 

[typ4]

Your,e on your honeymoon, *** are you doing on here Justin?????????
Hope you two are having a good time in Vegas./

 

[Agnem]

Well, you got me on the probe hole. My probe won't fit into the top hole, so I assumed I was supposed to use the one it fits in and that would be the one on the bottom..

Well that would be a major problem right there. Your timing is WAY off....

 

[eatont9999]

Well that would be a major problem right there. Your timing is WAY off....

Would it be too advanced or too retarded? I'm thinking too advanced seeing how tilted the pump has to be for me to have gotten 9BTDC on the new pump.

First thing I'll do is clean that top port out and see if I can get the probe in there. I'll do that this evening when I get home.

Thanks for the advice everyone. I hope that is all it is to get this truck running right.

 

[LSOSGT1109]

I hope this takes care of your issues eaton, I've been following your saga on FTE! Sure would be nice if this fixes it and you don't have to buy a new pump!

 

[icanfixall]

Wow... Leave it to Mel to ask an important question like that... Its something that many of us would expect to just know which hole to use.... Oh... That didn't come across like it was ment to be..... But anyway.. The top probe hole with the long tube is the one we use. The lower short fat one is the top dead center timing mark. Clean off the timing tab and you guys will feel and see the pressed timing mark in the tab. The probe location we use is 20% before offset location. Look at the rotation of the crank. You see its way before the tdc mark or the lower hole location...