Front Wheel Bearing service...schedule?

HammerDown

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every 30K...50K...80K?
This is the only thing I don't have a record of...I did it once since new, maybe 5 years ago but don't recall mileage (duh) :frustrate
 

towcat

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have you taken the truck swiming? If so, then a repack is in order. i usually will base a repack or rebuild on the grease condition and bearing condition.
 

JPR

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I do mine with the front brake pads, which means 30k - 40k. Yes, that is very frequent on the pads, but that is to be expected with this big of a sport car.
 

Agnem

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According to the Chassis Maintainance Chart it's every 30K. That might be a bit often, but surely on the safe side for harsh environments. I believe the Lady Moose was at 72K on the original bearings, as they looked to have never been touched. They were still in fine shape, but the original grease was starting to cake in the center of the hub. I let the Moose Truck go too long once. Had to do a bearing change out under less than ideal conditions. I don't think it was a lack of service though. Just bad luck. There was a warning sign, but I failed to see it as such. :rolleyes:
 

Pacific

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If you are in doubt and they have never been done by you then pull them clean them up inspect the bearings then repack then put them back. A 2wd truck is a piece of cake all you need is a new grease seal for the back of the hub. You don't want to ****** up a spindle from a bearing that has spun or worse yet have the front wheel fall off from a bad bearing.

Usually with the caliper off and you spin the rotor if it feels smooth then most of the time its okay. If you spin it and it feels a little rough then it maybe time to have a look and see. Also if you are bleeding the grease out of the front cap from excessive brake heat its time to repack the bearings.

One thing you never do when you have the bearings washout with solvent is spin drying them with air you will have a bigger problem on your hands LOL
 

HammerDown

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Thanks for the feedback fellas,
I'm thinking it more like 60K or so since the last service...Im on it tomorrow. :rolleyes:
And like I stated I did it once prior...166K on the original wheel bearings, but if they still look ok their going back in ;Sweet .

Need to start a new topic...another question. :Sly
 
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The Warden

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HammerDown said:
I'm thinking it more like 60K or so since the last service...Im on it tomorrow.
Do you have the special socket to get the nut off the spindle? If so, where did you get it from?

I ask because I think I need to replace my wheel bearings, and this time I want to do them myself...had them packed 3 different times by two shops and a friend of mine in an auto shop class earlier this year, and when the proper instructions were followed from the FSM, they still wound up wayyyyyy too loose (to the point where the top of the tire was moving over 3/8"). Finally, my friend (the last one to mess with them) just left the inner nut torqued instead of backing off 135° or so like the manual said...and, amazingly enough, the wheel still turned freely. I assume that this means the bearings are worn to the point where they're loose. Odd that they're not making any noise...

BTW, I'm guessing that JPR's driving style differs from mine...because the front brakes on my truck have a lot of meat left on them after 25K miles of me owning the truck...and the brake pads were nowhere near new when I bought the truck. :D
 

towcat

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tim-
handshaker vs. slushbox trannies have a huge impact on brakes. my car carrier got three years easy on brakes whereas the wheellift slushbox trucks got a year at the most. you'd be suprised on the difference downshifting makes.
 

JPR

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I agree that the auto is harder on brakes, especially when towing or heavily loaded. I am going through brakes with the trailer. I just upgraded the trailer brake controller which should help. Wish the trailer had electric over hydraulic drum or disc vs the electric brakes. Just not ready to drop $700 - 800 to upgrade.
 

The Warden

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towcat said:
you'd be suprised on the difference downshifting makes.
And yet you hear people talk about how you should NEVER use the engine to slow a vehicle down... :***: cookoo

You're right, though; I wasn't thinking about tranny differences... |stupid
 

argve

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Never used compression braking... :***: Nah I always walk down the gears but then again I'm flipping the exhaust brake as well, but even when I'm not using it (hardly ever) I still walk down.

But yeah I went through brakes in The E like I was changing underware - she ate front brakes for breakfast and engines for supper... :eek:
 

towcat

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argve said:
Never used compression braking... :***: Nah I always walk down the gears but then again I'm flipping the exhaust brake as well, but even when I'm not using it (hardly ever) I still walk down.

But yeah I went through brakes in The E like I was changing underware - she ate front brakes for breakfast and engines for supper... :eek:
duke said:
I picture it being used only when desperately needed like a 10 sec truck pull, a dragrace, pulling a huge load up a hill, etc. Kind of like how you'd use propane, NOS.

I wouldn't think running it for more than several minutes would be adviseable.


argve said:
I think you may be on to something because I used mine all the time (even running to the store to get more "*****") But there's nothing like rounding a corner in a limited slip crew cab dually with the W/M activated You should see the look on the guy's face in the honda as you so sliding by
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Proof by the goat's own admission that he drives like a nut. Not the fault of a badly abused truck.
 

HammerDown

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The Warden said:
Do you have the special socket to get the nut off the spindle? If so, where did you get it from?
Back when I did the job I went to a speciality tool house (Mac) to purchase the required socket...now just about every Pep Boys etc has them.
 

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