92 7.3 Driveshaft keeps sliding back out of carrier bearing

popcapps

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I'm gunna throw this at the wall and see if it sticks....
The tcase output somehow...
Pushed the d.shaft to the rear..
How?
Yea I dunno.
Brb
That what seems like is happening but yeah, I'm not sure why, is it possible that the Tcase is building pressure somehow, even though no fluid came out when the driveshaft came out of the truck?
 

Clb

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Here's the 93 fsm

Last 2
E4od pan
C6 pan

Normally :rolleyes:
You can pull the dl outta the bw t case without it puking its guts out, this is why it makes no sense to me how the d.l. is rearward of the frame mount...
 

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popcapps

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Does the slip in the driveshaft move easily?
I had it serviced by a highly specialized driveline shop and when I asked the guy if there were any issues with any of the slip areas, he said that it was slightly gummy before it went in the parts cleaner but that everything looked to be in good condition.
 

IDIBRONCO

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E4od pan

Then c6 pan
It's even easier to tell that that. The C6 usually has a pan that's pretty flat on the bottom while the E4OD pan is not even close to being flat. Aftermarket pans aside.
Honestly IDK where I got C6 from, probably just read the wrong post somewhere along the way
Don't fret too much. Mistakes happen and it's been corrected now.
 

popcapps

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Okay, so it seems like we've established that my truck has the correct transmission, correct transfer case, and the drive shaft is equipped with the proper pieces, but any idea on how I find out if my driveshaft is too long for the truck?
 

Clb

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Can you see the similar threads just below the thread on this page?
Search button next.
Its gotta be here someplace.
 

popcapps

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Can you see the similar threads just below the thread on this page?
Search button next.
Its gotta be here someplace.
AFAIK I read through every relevant driveshaft threads that came up in a handful of searches before even posting this thread, because I hadn't been successful in finding anything about the problem I'm having. Everyone seems to just have loud carrier bearings or a vibration issue at speed.

Searching found some threads where people were looking for lengths of driveshafts but I haven't been successful in finding anything where anyone actually has any measurements.
 
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popcapps

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Just spent some time underneath just looking around, and I did notice that the bolts holding the transfer case to the crossmember were loose. Wish I could get 4x4 working in this truck so I could just pull the rear driveshaft and make it home when it throws the next carrier bearing out.
 
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Nero

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Ok so I took a closer look at all the photos, one thing I see that might be your culprit... Every single 2/3 piece driveline ive seen on these model Ford's, the first shaft at the t case is always parallel to the body, then at the carrier bearing joint that is where it angles down to the rear diff.
That huge body spacer at the carrier, does it come out? Looks like it needs to be raised a good 4"
 

Clb

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Disassemble the ENTIRE shift mechanism and clean and polish it.
Then lube it REALLY GOOD and re assemble .
These are notorious for sucky operation when dry...

My driveline guy has a book showing specs of stuff.

Might try calling around...
Also try backing up on the tcase and shifting it, sometimes it's a little better moving the cogs inside...
 
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popcapps

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Ok so I took a closer look at all the photos, one thing I see that might be your culprit... Every single 2/3 piece driveline ive seen on these model Ford's, the first shaft at the t case is always parallel to the body, then at the carrier bearing joint that is where it angles down to the rear diff.
That huge body spacer at the carrier, does it come out? Looks like it needs to be raised a good 4"
Interesting. It's raining now, but once it dries out I'll go see if that bracket is designed to come out.



When's the last time the tcase was rebuilt?

If the output has some kind of radial movement under load, it can have the effect of pushing the yoke out.
PO did not mention anything about the T-case other than it was supposed to have worked. He only put 100 miles on the rebuilt transmission before he had an electrical problem with the radio/windows that made him decide to sell the truck. AFAIK it's never been rebuilt.



Disassemble the ENTIRE shift mechanism and clean and polish it.
Then lube it REALLY GOOD and re assemble .
These are notorious for sucky operation when dry...

My driveline guy has a book showing specs of stuff.

Might try calling around...
Also try backing up on the tcase and shifting it, sometimes it's a little better moving the cogs inside...

When I actually move the truck into the garage to start working on things, I'll give this a shot, thanks!
 

Rdnck84_03

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When's the last time the tcase was rebuilt?

If the output has some kind of radial movement under load, it can have the effect of pushing the yoke out.
I was thinking the same thing. If the bronze bushing in the tail housing is worn it could possibly be causing the tail shaft to push the slip yolk out.

Not saying that's the issue, just a possibility.

James
 

IDIBRONCO

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Disassemble the ENTIRE shift mechanism and clean and polish it.
Then lube it REALLY GOOD and re assemble .
These are notorious for sucky operation when dry...
This is a good idea. On my first 85 F250, one winter, it wouldn't go into 4lo. I gave up on it and then tried it again several months later. It went into 4lo with no problems and kept doing so. All I can come up with is that there must have been some mud that got up around the shifter and froze. Then, after it thawed back out, the shifter worked again. I know that frozen mud isn't the problem in this case, but I wanted to reaffirm that dirty linkages can, sometimes, keep the transfer case from shifting.
 

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