front crank seal replacement

c_silva88

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is there any way the front crank seal can be replaced with out pulling the motor or am i gonna have to pull the whole motor to do change it?
 

icanfixall

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No reason to pull engine for a front seal. You will need two special tools for this.. One is the dampner remover installer tool. The other is theseal installer tool that bolts to those three bolts welded to the front cover. Now remember the dampner will have a worn place in it from the seal so you will need a speedi sleeve installed on that. If you skip that sleeve the new seal wil leak. Removing the fan shroud and radiater gives more working room.
 

c_silva88

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thanks icanfixall you made my day now i guess i can order the parts and get the truck back on the road it sucks stopping at gas stations checkin the fuel level and adding oil :rotflmao
 

icanfixall

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Can you actually see the oil around the dampner or is it not visible. Reason I ask this is if the engine has an oil pan cork or rubber gasket its probably that leaking and it requires removel of the engine to remove it and use only RTV like the factory did. This is a problem rebuilder give us. Some ****** clown designed a gasket for these engines without thinking what they were doing. Now rebuilders that should not be touching these engines are installing the pan gasket just because they bought it. There is no good reason for an oil pan gasket... EVER.. But my voice is one od one and me yelling at the industry is like fighting or tilting at windmills...
 

Black dawg

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Just because I am in a contradictory (is that a word?) mood, I have used a gasket several times with the engine stll in the truck with zero leakage. With the engine out, silicone used correctly will NEVER leak. I find it too hard to keep things clean enough to feel confident in silicone, with the engine still in the truck.
 

Agnem

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I've done two engines in frame with no trouble, and I didn't remove the fan or rad. The trick is, not to seat the seal in the same spot as before, so the new one doesn't ride in the old grove. Try letting it hang out just a little.
 

icanfixall

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Did you have the special tool for the dampner removel and install plus the seal installer tool.. If so I can see why you did yours that way. To the original poster... Do not attempt to use a gear puller with the jaws pulling on the outer metal band of the dampner. You wil pull that part off the dampner because its only rubber mounted.
 

jaluhn83

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My $0.02, you don't really need either of those tools. The harmonic balancer can be pulled with a steering wheel puller. The installer tool would be nice, but wouldn't be hard to make, or just use a soft bunch and a small hammer. I would pull the radiator to get better access.

I do agree with checking the other gaskets to make sure that it's really the front seal though. You've got the pan and front cover all in that area that can leak. I've seen the weirdest things sometimes where one leak looks like it's coming from something totally different.

On a completely different tangent, why is a pan gasket such a bad idea? I would feel more confident in a real gasket than I would with rtv, assuming it's installed correctly....
 

IDIBRONCO

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We always used a pan gasket in the shop I used to work in. I think most people overtighten the bolts and split the gasket causing it to leak. As for the seal installation with out the installer, MAJOR PITA! I wish we had one of those things! It probably would have made the job a lot easier! Of course I worked for an owner and a supervisor who thought it's easy to replace the clutch on a semi without a clutch jack too.
 
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