94turbocrewcab-lb
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Can I change the front main seal without pulling the oil pan? I have the motor out.
Front Main seal
- Thread starter 94turbocrewcab-lb
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HammerDown
Full Access Member
This must be where I have a bad leak... but I ain't going after it.
Too much for my work old a**.
Too much for my work old a**.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
It could be, but you need to do some close inspecting to see exactly where the oil is leaking. It could be coming from one of the lowest water pump bolts if someone didn't put sealer on them when replacing the water pump.
HammerDown
Full Access Member
Doesn't that front cover or something like that have to come off... under the IP gear housing?
HammerDown
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Since I got her new in 1988 I've replaced the water pump maybe three times, twice for sure. Never had any type of 'leakage' issues. 233,000 miles on her now.
My oily mess seems to be on the front passenger side of the engine. Difficult to tell for sure as the fan kinda blows it around. The front of the passenger leaf spring is oily... which is odd.
Not required at all. Ford actually made a special tool for pulling and pressing the seal in without removing the front cover, but I've found it easy enough to press one in with a socket, just don't go hitting it too hard, you can break the pan seal at the bottom.
Slicknik
Full Access Member
Yes you can but not required , I agree with @Nero , I replaced the camshaft and a mushroom lifter that wouldn’t come out the top and the roller bearing part lives in my oil pan now, did the front main seal at the same time
www.nickpisca.com
Nick pisca website helped out a lot
6.9 / 7.3 IDI Front and Rear Main Seal Replacement - IDI Online
One of the most common places for oil leaks on a 6.9 or 7.3 IDI engine is the front and/or rear main seal. The main seals are the composite rings that encapsulate the ends of the crankshaft, that keep the crankcase oil from gushing out of the engine. After a couple hundred thousand miles, these
www.nickpisca.com
Nick pisca website helped out a lot
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On most engines, including these, make sure you put a little sealer on the keyway on the crankshaft before you slip the damper in place. Oil will creep by the key and create a small aggravating hard to find leak. If you forget to do this step, you can pull the large bolt out with the washer, put some rtv where the washer lives and put it back together. That will stop this leak also.
94turbocrewcab-lb
Full Access Member
I’m curious where I’d find the gaskets to go behind the front plate? I have it all taken apart about to clean them up but I’m not sure my master kit has the front pan gasket.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
There is no oil pan gasket. Let me rephrase that. Don't use the oil pan gasket that comes in a kit or any other gasket on the oil pan for that matter. They didn't use one from the factory and you shouldn't use one either. A gasket will make it leak . Just use RTV to seal it up.
I have found a trick to this using rtv only. If you put a large bead around the surface, and then install the pan or whatever you are sealing and tighten it down, there is a good chance you will have a leak right after or soon right after. The rtv is still fairly runny, and most of it will squish out in certain places and it will be almost metal to metal, and good place to have a leak.
What I found works better is to put the rtv bead on the surface, and then install the pan and just lightly tighten the bolts with just and extension and a socket or lightly with a nut driver. Just enough for the rtv to stick to both surfaces and to level it out, but not tight. Then the next day come back and tighten the bolts down normally. Now the rtv has a thickness to it, and has hardened, and actually has formed a gasket of sorts. Now you can squeeze the pan to the block with a "rtv gasket" in between. This has worked much better for me as far as stopping nuisance leaks. But it does take some time to do it. A regular gasket with a very thin smear of rtv is quicker.
What I found works better is to put the rtv bead on the surface, and then install the pan and just lightly tighten the bolts with just and extension and a socket or lightly with a nut driver. Just enough for the rtv to stick to both surfaces and to level it out, but not tight. Then the next day come back and tighten the bolts down normally. Now the rtv has a thickness to it, and has hardened, and actually has formed a gasket of sorts. Now you can squeeze the pan to the block with a "rtv gasket" in between. This has worked much better for me as far as stopping nuisance leaks. But it does take some time to do it. A regular gasket with a very thin smear of rtv is quicker.
hacked89
Full Access Member
Or just use immediate return to service like they use at the factory / dealer and save yourself a day
