Firing an engine...with out IP or gear cover

[riotwarrior]

The 92 SC I'm picking up today has a 7.3 in it. it's been picked of injectors/IP, and gear cover cause that's the easy way!

It is an engine, unknown condition...but alleged runner buwa ha ha ha ha...., whats the chance of trying an IP on that sucker and how...do you do it?

I'm going to attempt to get engine fired! I feel it's worth giving it a whirl just for the sake of learning this *****! And if it's a decent runner...who knows maybe I"ll have a spare engine, I can comp test it too so it's maybe worth test firing?

I'm going to try an IP I have or two...and some injectors floating around too...for shitz n gigglz...

I just need to figure out how to stick the IP on...rofl

It is clear here....where the marks line up...rofl...but how do I know where that is when the engine is assembled...rofl?

 

[lindstromjd]

You have to take the whole front cover off to see those marks on the middle gear. Good luck, it's not fun.

 

[gandalf]

If I understand your question rightly, I can offer an answer which might help. This was posted in the distant past, in a forum far far away, by Ziggster40. How many here remember him?

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What you do is lift off the injection pump cover and then the gear. Find the "y" mark at the bottom which points to the tooth that is supposed to align with a dot on the cam gear below(the one you can't see when it's assembled. From that tooth, you count up the gear towards the top on both sides 19 teeth. Put a mark on the 19th tooth on each side, then scribe a line between the two. This line will now run across the front of the gear, and be just above the deck when the gear is lowered into position. You can easily tell if it is out one tooth or not as the line will not be level with the top of the block. You can then lower the cover onto the gear all the while watching the mark to see it doesn't move. Too easy!!

Should look kinda like this.....pic here..

Hope that helps someone, I haven't tried it myself yet, but you can bet I will soon.

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There, I found the picture too.

You must be registered for see images attach

Hope this helps you, Al.

 

[zigg]

Surprise!

Ha ha ha, I still lurk occasionally!!!

Don't forget you need to make sure the engine is at TDC first! This makes sure that all the marks on the crank/cam and injection pump gear are properly aligned. Keep in mind that #1 piston is at the top of it's travel on both exhaust and compression stroke, so you need to be sure it is at the top of compression for the marks to line up. The cylinder will have pressure built up on compression stroke, but not on exhaust. You can pull a glow plug or injector on # 1 to figure this out. It also helps to put a mark vertically through the center of the gear, and lower it into place so that it lines up exactly with the little tiny notch at the top of the front cover plate.
I've got a better pic somewhere, but not at home just now...

Good luck,

hi all

Zigg

 

[icanfixall]

Thats the idea I was attempting to post about and yes.. I do remember Zigster 40 from Canada. Very knowledegable guy with these engines and trucks too. What Ken has posted with pics above is not going to tell you your at tdc of number one cylinder. A valave cover will have to come off to determine that by the valve action. Either valve cover may come off to tell you if number 1 is at tdc. Even cylinder 4 will tell you that number one is at tdc because those cylinders 1 and 4 time the engine exactly the same. I sometimes use cylinder 4 because its easier to get at the hard line sometimes. Just watch the valves go thru their action and when the intake closes its at the bottom of the stroke. Watch the dampner mark to come up and your at tdc. If cylinder 1 or 4 has the injecter out you can ease the piston up and feel the air being pushed out the hole but be careful. These engines make 500 lbs of pressure at cranking speeds so crap will be a flying around... And you bet its gonna find your eyes... Funny how it does that too...

 

[dgr]

Just drill a hole in the front cover and also some jb weld on there when done

 

[riotwarrior]

You have to take the whole front cover off to see those marks on the middle gear. Good luck, it's not fun.

This I know NOT to be true...there is some alleged magical mirror trick but I tend to like the other ideas posted much better.

Al

 

[John Deere]

I used a curved "dental" pick once to feel for the mark.

 

[Devon Harley]

Ok I did this recently with a craftsman mirror tht was 5 dollars it's the size of a quarter same thickness. Has to be nothing will fit but it with a clear pic of the Y. So then roll over 180 degrees out is a dot the. Roll over again with socket. The mark from laying under truck doesn't match up to the tab as the angle your looking from. Then use a iPhone flash light app. An a dry erase marker mark both sides of where the Y lays an set the other gear down. I was told this is extremely hard to do an probley wouldn't have got it the first time. But took my time an did its easy even in the truck. Someone who's pulled an ip before should be able to do the whole job in 2 hours tops

 

[8seconds]

Another trick when the gear cover has been removed along with the gear and the front cover is still on, is to position the crank at the 11:00 position, take a dental pick with a long handle and search for the "Y" mark, which will seat about 1/8 of an inch below the teeth line, in addition another tip; will be that the "Y" will be seating at the tip of a tooth valley. You will notice that the "Y" will be imprinted upside down when you find it (Trace the imprint, when you find it).

I tried using the mirror trick, but had not success.

 

[Devon Harley]

Only reason mirror trick worked for me is my flash light app. Lol you can barley see it if at all.

 

[Devon Harley]

Btw that pic al posted was the exact one I had used to find the marks when it wa assembled in the truck. Ron ha emailed it to me. Helped alot. Al I can send you a pic of where the crank is lined up from the underside.

 

[riotwarrior]

Btw that pic al posted was the exact one I had used to find the marks when it wa assembled in the truck. Ron ha emailed it to me. Helped alot. Al I can send you a pic of where the crank is lined up from the underside.

send away, riotwarrior at hot mail dot com

Also I'll be playing with this for a bit, I'll bar the engine over a few times prior to even attempting to fire it, if it bars over I'll try to start it. It means installing injectors and an IP

that's going to be fun, I just may be doing a sweet pictutorial on this to see if I can help those less fortunate folks whom well...pull the darn IP gear cover to swap the IP....

It all comes down to play for me, and curiosity to see if the engine is worth salvaging is all...Ya ha...another IDI diesel...hmmm...would be kewl eh?

I bet it will fire!

 

[Black dawg]

Something that I have done in the past, is take the little cover off (on another motor)to get to where the ip gear bolts are, and rotate the motor over till the timing marks (on the damper) line up. Note where the dowel is on the ip gear. Make the motor you are trying to get running look just like that. If you have a good eye, it is pretty easy to tell if you have it a tooth off.

EDIT... also verify that both engines are on compression stroke.

 

[icanfixall]

The above posting makes some good points but it will not tell you if your at tdc or 180 degrees out. This is a little information about all the gear sizes in these idi engine. The crank gear is half the size of the cam gear. Reason for that is the crank turns twice to one of the cam. Now the injection pump gear is exactly the same size as the cam gear. So it turns one time same as the cam does. This might be amazing to some but its simple phsycics.