Finally going back together 7.3T

[idiabuse]

after a long two years and a couple grand I am on the finals stages of engine assembly.
about 3 years ago I noticed oil level rising and knew I hurt the old dog.
ripped it apart to find scored cylinder and piston.
little did I know why until recently. will explain later...
I bought the truck in 1999 and drove it 30,000 miles and BOOM blew head gaskets.
I replaced the tired heads with 6.9 heads and went about 90,000 miles till I hurt it again.
during this time I used Amsoil since the new heads went on around 2001.
never changed the oil, added and filter changes and very good Oil Analysis Reports until I removed engine to find source of rising oil level, last UOA reported .7% fuel in oil

So I took my engine and decided to upgrade all my non turbo parts to turbo.
I had all along a banks sidewinder.
I purchased a doner 7.3 turbo engine and was able to get crank,rods,pistons, balancer, all TURBO from that engine.
My engine was std bore and the doner turbo engine was .020 overbored, since my block or the doner block was NON TURBO I used mine to bore over.

So after bore and hone, resize rods, two new pistons new rings, balanced recipricating assembly, New cylinder heads, ported, seats reground with serdi machine for smooth radius, new exhaust valves.
New Kings main and rog bearings STD/STD .

that was all the new stuff, all the remaing parts are all in excellent condition, I had the exhaust manifolds and Y pipe and turbo housing all coated.

Ok the culprit of my teardown I did not know till I started the assembly, I found a clogged piston oiler, same cyinder that failed. how it got clogged I dont know, maybe clogged solid since I owned the truck? the engine inside was clean as a whistle, I have pics of the whole ordeal but I had leaned on the truck one night real hard about 120mph for 10 miles, after that is when the oil level went from adding to level to overfilled.
It took 3 months for me to fully realize what happened.
Well wish me luck hope this helps others who have a failure, you can blame it on everything but the actual core problem
see some pics here http://www.ranchopower.com/?page_id=13

Javier

 

[idiabuse]

Engine is ready to drop in now.

You must be registered for see images

You must be registered for see images

You must be registered for see images

been a long expensive wait. will be fun to see the faces of those who doubted me...
Javier

 

[dyoung14]

Whats the specs on this engine? whats been done to it? how far from stock is it?

 

[idiabuse]

Whats the specs on this engine? whats been done to it? how far from stock is it?

It is so stock It sucks, from my point of view, it is all turbo upgraded, new round cylinder bores .020 Mahle Turbo pistons, all balanced, Kings mains and rod bearings, New head castings ported and SERDI machined valve seats, 5 angle, heavier valve springs, all ceramic coated exhaust and turbo castings, injection pump modified, spins 3650rpm, G injectors, entire fuel system modified, all -6 at the engine -8 from the pump to the filter head -10 from the tanks to the filter before the pump, soon to purchase AIRDOG pump.

I have no clue what it will spin at the wheels but I will find out.
Javier

 

[SLC97SR5]

Looks great, any information on modifying the IP's governer to turn 3650?

 

[idiabuse]

Looks great, any information on modifying the IP's governer to turn 3650?

I got the truck in 1999 with the pump done, when I had the pump rebuilt by the same guys that originally built it, they told me my pump pumped alot of fuel, now I wished I had asked them how many cc's did it pump out.
I think there is a thread on oilburners about modifying the pump to spin extra rpms, do a search
Javier

 

[Fozz]

It will run really good. I did the same thing to my truck. I had a very small headgasket exhaust leak and rebuilt the engine to turbo specs.

 

[dyoung14]

Looks great, any information on modifying the IP's governer to turn 3650?

you will have to get a spring to do that, after my warranty runs out on this stock pump im putting my 4000+ spring in it, so i could get rid of the one thats in my pump

 

[idiabuse]

I made one attempt to slide in my engine complete but I failed to get it sitting down in the hole, I did have to remove the starter but still hung up on the exhaust from the turbo, anyone installed a fully dressed IDI into a 80s truck? my first time installing, I removed it fine, it was almost 3 years ago so I dont remember much but wondering if I can get any tips on instlling this IDI.
Thanks!
Javier

 

[gonecrazyi]

I have found that pulling the front core support off is the easiest way to set in a turbo motor. I usually leave everything together when it comes to NA motors though.

 

[idiabuse]

I have found that pulling the front core support off is the easiest way to set in a turbo motor. I usually leave everything together when it comes to NA motors though.

Oh that has to come out, like to see someone try to yank or install an IDI with the rad core in
Javier

 

[gonecrazyi]

I did on the last couple trucks that I have pulled idi motors on.

I removed the radiator and hoods and used a bobcat to yank the motors forward and out. I ended up using a tcm loader to set the motor back in the same way I took it out.

 

[Fozz]

I remember having the engine at about a 45 degree angle (front of engine towards driver-side headlight) going in then straighten it out just before you land on the engine mounts.

 

[87crewdually]

Oh that has to come out, like to see someone try to yank or install an IDI with the rad core in
Javier

I installed mine complete minus the crank pulley. As you see it here is how I put it in. The only thing I recommend is removing your radiator, hood, and with the Banks turbo you want to remove the wiper motor. My wiper motor case broke upon removal, ooopps. I used a forklift and once hung in the engine bay a floor jack under the oil pan. The only other PITA is the dam Banks automatic dipstick tube and the way it's weaved between the manifolds. I cut and sleeved mine for easier removal. You can see my truck in the background with the front end still together. Crank pulley and radiator out frees up plenty of room.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Agnem]

I'm a fan of pulling the whole front clip. So much easier, and your core supports need maintainance anyway.