Few Pics-Couple questions...?

HammerDown

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Does the below fitting coming out of the filter head (arrow) have a O-Ring in it...If so who carries it? It was damp w/fuel and I think this is where it's sucking air. I did get about 1/2 turn out of it...felt like it was tightening against rubber.
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Looking down at the IP, on the right side there is a little well that is holding fuel (follow pencil). Where on or in the IP would cause this leak?
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Below I used a shop towel to clean up the fuel (very little)...again where would the IP be leaking from?
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Is there a replacement for this type of battery terminal? (starting to split at arrow)
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f350flatbed

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That first pic is of the supply line to the IP, it's a compression fitting, no o-ring. If it is leaking then the fuel can travel down the line to the connction on the IP and then down the underside of the pump and into the well. Compression fittings are only good for a certain number of tightenings and loosenings before they have to be replaced.

Paul B
 

icanfixall

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Yes.. That has a square o-ring called an olive. They can be bought from any good injection pump rebuild shop. I think they are either 3/8 or 5/16.
 

suv7734

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Sorry to contradict f350 but the fitting in the first pic does contain a rubber seal. The rubber seal is there to provide some cushion against the constant vibration so the hard line will be less suseptible to cracking. It is called an "olive" and basically looks like an o-ring with square edges. They are available at most fuel injection shops. The other end of that tube has one as well and could very well be the cause of the fuel puddle in the valley pan if it is leaking as well.

Here's a good pic of the connection from another member
 

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f350flatbed

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Sorry, maybe I didn't look real carefully when I took mine off a couple days ago.
 

Agnem

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X2 on that. I made one from a piece of fuel line. As for the leak, it's pretty far foward. Could be just about anywhere, fuel line, nose cone, advance piston, etc. Best bet for finding the source is to get it squeeky clean, and then watch it like a hawk with a bright light and a mirror. A little talcum powder will allow you to see where it flowed from, and to.
 

JPR

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The rubber seal is there to provide some cushion against the constant vibration so the hard line will be less susceptible to cracking.
That is a good point, had not thought about the line having a "seal" and an inverted flare connection.
 

HammerDown

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Thanks for the feedback fellas...the info offered on Forums like this is priceless! ;Sweet

I'll be on the hunt for that Olive O-ring...hope I didn't damage it by over tightening it yesterday.

The leak on or (in) the IP may be a tricky one...if it's coming from the inside then I might as well start hunting around for a local reputable shop (none I'm aware of) to do a rebuild.

Good to know there's a replacement available for the passenger side Positive Terminal.

*Mel, wished we lived closer as you're one I know I could trust and have faith in to do a great IP rebuild.
 
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HammerDown

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UPDATE...tried the powder trick to look for any external leaks, couldn't find anything at least on the front or sides.
That little well in my second pic is again full of fuel (about a cap full) so it must be coming from the inside of the IP somewhere. Now trying to locate someone local to do a good rebuild with a quick turn around.:rolleyes:
 

Agnem

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Ray, check the weep hole in the front of the pump. It's under that short section of casting between the pump body and the mounting flange. Either way, I think your on the right track for getting a rebuild.
 

HammerDown

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The closest place is almost two hours away:eek: ... Fleet Source http://www.fleetsource.com/about_us.shtml


"Authorized remanufacturer of fuel pumps and injectors
Some of the most advanced test equipment in the country. "


...2-3 day turn around on mine or have rebuilt IP's on the shelf.
$450 IP rebuilt and fully tested
$25 each (new) OE Injectors w/ pop test
 

Agnem

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I can probably help you out if you want. Call or PM me.
 

jtate

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i purchased the same battery cable terminal from napa auto parts. all i had to do was solder it on, but i also made the whole cable from the starter to the batteries. hope this helps
 
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