Failed Safety Inspection for Right Front Suspension

[MICHAEL MICHAUD]

So I just went in to get inspected for state safety in MA. The guys are sticklers which is fine but they had no consistency so it's slightly annoying in a way. They hit every mark of the inspection let some things go but not others. Oh well it's an old truck.

Either way this guy Jack's up the front wheels one at a time starts wiggling and shaking them and using a pry bar to push up on the bottom of them. I know about this test not sure what they are checking for exactly though.

Fails me for:

No windshield washer fluid(my pump isn't hooked up to the nozzles not sure why just never cared or bothered), water in the right headlight, batteries not secured, and right front suspension.

I asked him what's wrong with it, he said "I don't know, it feels like a bearing"

The other 3 I can see I guess sure I'll take care of them even though it's petty as hell. But this suspension one I may need to do some learning for.

What are the symptoms and deficiencies that I should be looking for up there doing the wheel pry and shake? Just installed brand new Moog inner and outer tie rods.

I don't hear or feel any typical bearing related issues while driving, I guess the truck is pretty loud but I'm not sure it's a bearing. On top of this in MA apparently you can't even drive the vehicle at all till the repairs are made. Doesn't matter the type of repairs needed.

94 F350 Supercab Longbed

 

[79jasper]

Probably ball joints.


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[SLittle]

Go to about 45 seconds in:

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[MICHAEL MICHAUD]

Alright well then. Very simple and to the point. Thank you. Those are the two massive things on the top and bottom of the knuckle?

Are those easily replaced? They look very intimidating. I have a 12 ton press but I mean damn lol

Edit. Looked up how to replace them. I can't wait.

Thanks guys. To be honest I didn't even know those ball joints we're there. Visually inspecting them they don't look too bad. I guess I'll try the tire wiggle technique and see what the deal is. Just ordered new uppers and lowers from summit for both sides.

 

[Cubey]

I have done ball joints on my 87 f250 with a rental ball joint press set and a hft electric impact. It's pretty easy.

Now on an old Dodge 1 ton van, i outsourced the ball joints to a machine shop. One was pressed and one was threaded. It was in control arms and it's easy to tear it up. I just carried in the control arms and had them do them.

You could do the same with the steering knuckle if you are worried about it. Expect about $75-100 labor if you do. Bring the new parts with you, and they'll just press out the old, press in the new.

 

[MICHAEL MICHAUD]

Yeah I was figuring worst case I could do something like that as a backup. Free rentals are unreal these days.

 

[subway]

sounds like a similar inspection that we have in PA. there should be no noticeable movement in the joints holding the front end together. gabbing the wheel from the top and bottom should show any ball joint movement. side to side should show steering linkage movement. of coarse a loose/worn wheel bearing will show movement in any direction.

first things first, i would be checking the tightness of the wheel bearing. it might be a free and easy fix. i have had wheel bearings become loose and you would never know it unless you jacked it up and checked them.

once that checks out then take the next steps to look at the rest of the joints before condemning them.

 

[MICHAEL MICHAUD]

How do I check if the wheel bearing is loose? There is just the teensiest bit of movement using only my hands pushing on the top and bottom of tire.

If I pull the wheel and brakes and rotors there's 5 nuts that hold the wheel bearing in place?

 

[subway]

2x4 or 4x4? either way you need to access the nut in the hub that tightens down on the wheel bearing and set it properly. so you are either pulling the locking hub or the cap in the center.

 

[MICHAEL MICHAUD]

4x4

 

[subway]

so you will need to pull the front hub off and have the wheel off the ground. Tighten the inner nut to 50 ft-lbs, then back off 90 degrees. Tighten the outer nut to 160-205 ft-lbs. Check the torque required to rotate the hub/rotor. Torque required to rotate the front disc brake hub and rotor is not to exceed 20 INCH-lb

sounds like you probably dont have the front hub nut socket. you can rent them for free through most any big box parts store.