Engine clatter

Brian VT

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I'm just getting to know my truck and my first diesel.
It's been starting great even at below freezing without having the block heater plugged in. Just 5-10 seconds on the GP button.
It smokes (white) and stinks like crazy while warming up (my neighbors are gonna love me when it's warm enough to have house windows open) but no smoke once I am driving. And it seems to start, drive, and restart just fine.
Since I've never had a diesel I don't know what it should sound like. So I don't know if it's running well or not.
It sounds fine to me at idle but when driving there is a noticeable clatter. If I let off the throttle it goes away but it is consistent whenever I'm on the throttle.
Is that just how these IDIs sound or does mine maybe have a problem?
 

Farmer Rock

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The clatter you hear is the cold timing advance, which is a good sign of course. The white smoke would be from cold starting. It sounds like you have a manual glow plug set up ( I do as well). The factory controller would keep the glow plugs on for a little longer after the engine starts to reduce the smoke for emission reasons. Being that you have the manual system, there is no afterglow which is perfectly normal and afaik doesn't make a difference to cold starts. If you want to avoid the extra smoke, you can run the glow plugs a little longer on the button.


Rock
 

Cubey

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Having a video of what it's doing would be most helpful. If it's smoking a lot, timing may be way off for some reason. The noise could potentially leaking exhaust before the muffler.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Do you start the engine and then start driving right away? Is that when the clatter happens or does it do that all of the time? If it's really clattery all of the time, that may be a sign that your timing is too far advanced. Of course it's hard to tell what a noise sounds like over the internet. It may be fine and you aren't used to the noise of the IDI engine.
 

Brian VT

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I let it warm up for at least 5 minutes before driving. Usually longer.
No clatter when there's no load on the engine.
The clatter is all the time when driving except when I let off the throttle or going downhill.
I would describe the sound as like a gas engine that was low on oil.
My oil level is fine and the (aftermarket) oil pressure gauge reads @ 40 when driving.
It very well may be normal noise. I've never had one of these.
 

Old Goat

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Does the rattle go away after the engine is up to temperature?
Iam thinking what you describe is the engine is cold they do that when cold. Also you will get some smoke, that should clear up.

As mentoned, with your manual GP switcvh, hold the thing on 6 - 8 sec and start the engine. You don`t have the after glow feature, (not sure these trucks had it anyway) but after it is started, you can push the GP switch another 5 sec or so, and this adds heat to the cylinders. let her run a bit and you can o it again if needed to smooth it out.

Plug in your Block heater for 4 hours so the block is good and warm. When you start the engine, do you get the same symptoms?
I used mine this morning as it was 14 deg., Started the engine and she lit right off.

The Block Heater only heats the coolant in the engine and the Block. Does not heat the Oil in the Pan, which will be what ever the outside temp is.

I have had Diesels since 81. Datsun 720 SD22 4 banger, then 97 Mercedes 300D Turbo Diesel, then several years later a 80 240D. Now up 7 of them.
Got the First Ford Diesel in 07-14, the 86 F250 6.9.
Then the John Deere 950 3cyl Yanmar Engine.

They all have their different quirks, but all mechanical injected fuel.
They sound like there is something going to break under the hood when cold.


Goat

 

Big Bart

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I'm just getting to know my truck and my first diesel.
It's been starting great even at below freezing without having the block heater plugged in. Just 5-10 seconds on the GP button.
It smokes (white) and stinks like crazy while warming up (my neighbors are gonna love me when it's warm enough to have house windows open) but no smoke once I am driving. And it seems to start, drive, and restart just fine.
Since I've never had a diesel I don't know what it should sound like. So I don't know if it's running well or not.
It sounds fine to me at idle but when driving there is a noticeable clatter. If I let off the throttle it goes away but it is consistent whenever I'm on the throttle.
Is that just how these IDIs sound or does mine maybe have a problem?
Brian,

You should get your IP timing checked and off have it set. Or invest a couple hundred on a setup so you can do it. When the timing is set correctly and your timing advance solenoid is working, your truck will make noticeably more clatter for a minute or two at cold start and then start to quiet down. The fact you get noticeable clatter at higher rpm’s sounds like potentially your timing is off or perhaps your timing advance is staying on. (Just a educated guess.). Most shops do not have the equipment to time these old beasts. So many time by ear or use their butt dyno but that only gets you close. So many of our trucks when bought used are not timed correctly. Worse yet as IP’s and injectors wear they change the timing.

The smoke at start up on a cold day could be a couple dead glow plugs.(Maybe do a ohm test on them.) Or just not leaving them on long enough in 20* weather. I personally would go 15 seconds in those cold temps. Also the block heater will help with warm up smoke. Timing also effects the burn of the diesel.

In the IDI’s I have been in, the clatter is consistent in sound level. You just hear more clatters (Burns) as you go faster but not noticeably different sounding or louder. But other members who have theirs timed correctly can weigh in if they hear the clatter change pitch or decibels at higher rpm’s. But when the IP advance comes on you can tell a noticeable difference between start up and a couple minutes after.
 

Brian VT

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When the timing is set correctly and your timing advance solenoid is working, your truck will make noticeably more clatter for a minute or two at cold start and then start to quiet down. The fact you get noticeable clatter at higher rpm’s
No clatter when in neutral. Doesn't matter if it's cold or hot. And the RPMs don't matter either.
The clatter only happens when a load is put on the engine (driving) and it does it at all RPMs, not just higher RPMs.

I do intend to get timing equipment but it won't be for another month or two.
I'm just wondering if this clatter is somewhat normal for these NA IDIs or if I'm doing damage by driving it.
 

Big Bart

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I will let others weigh in, as mentioned the few trucks I have been in do not have a noticeable increase in clatter upon acceleration.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I can say that when properly timed, they don't make much extra clatter when the RPM go up. While the timing was set at 16* on my Blue truck, the clatter was bad enough that I couldn't stand it at higher RPM. Now I don't have that issue since it's been timed properly. The high RPM performance improved drastically as well.
 

Brian VT

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I can say that when properly timed, they don't make much extra clatter when the RPM go up.
As I said, on my engine the RPMs don't affect the level of clatter. It is constant when driving, regardless of speed or RPMs, unless I let off the throttle to coast. Then there is no clatter. If I put in in neutral there is no clatter regardless of RPMs.
It sounds like you are saying that some clatter is normal under load but if the timing is off then there will be more clatter at higher RPMs. Am I reading that right?
And while we're talking clatter, what is the source of the clatter?

I'm just trying to figure out if this is just what NA IDIs sound like normally or if I should stop driving it until I can afford timing equipment.
 

quickster

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Like Bronco said. your timing is too advanced. Loosen the three bolts a little, and turn the pump towards the driver side about the width of a nickel. Tighten it up and try it.
 

Fixnstuff

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As I said, on my engine the RPMs don't affect the level of clatter. It is constant when driving, regardless of speed or RPMs, unless I let off the throttle to coast. Then there is no clatter. If I put in in neutral there is no clatter regardless of RPMs.
It sounds like you are saying that some clatter is normal under load but if the timing is off then there will be more clatter at higher RPMs. Am I reading that right?
And while we're talking clatter, what is the source of the clatter?

Does it sound like this: [LOUD AND NOISY CLATTER like the pistons are hollow steel, sealed at the bottom and with a 1/2 inch steel ball from a ball bearing sealed inside and rattling inside each piston as the engine runs.] (that's normal)
I live alone in an almost completely silent environment, almost 24/7 with just the noise of typing on my keyboard now and then. I don't have a TV. My radio hasn't been turned on in years. Occasionally I watch a streaming sporting event or documentary / youtube video on my computer BUT I DO NOT LIKE NOISE, I LIKE PEACE AND QUIET.
Relative to my normal extremely quiet environment: when my truck is running it's similar to the description I gave above, loud and noisy clatter.

Simple explanation: To start with, these engines are an older style MECHANICAL Indirect Injection DIESEL and they naturally have a loud clatter. THE CLATTER comes from inside of the MECHANICAL injectors and some from the detonation or the slight pre-detonation of the fuel which is relative to injection pump timing which is determined by the detonation characteristics (cetane levels in diesel fuel for example) of the fuel. The injector noise and detonation (pre-detonation) noises transfer from the injectors and cylinder liners through the heads and block and into the air, probably loudest close to the injectors.

The clatter noise from the injectors originates from inside of each injector, more specifically from a moving spring loaded and pressure driven solid steel 'piston' with a pintle needle at the bottom which seats the needle in the nozzle ( fuel can only spray out when it is open, otherwise it's sealed) as well as seating the piston in the larger bore of the injector body.

The pressurized fuel from the Injection Pump (IP) enters a chamber inside the injector and when it reaches the injector's design pressure ("pop pressure") it moves the piston back against a very strong spring and at a specific position of the piston it releases the fuel in that pressure chamber down through the nozzle, exiting in a spray pattern. The release of the pressure causeds that piston and pintle to slam into the seat to seal the injector to repeat the same cycle when the rotary injection pump sends the next burst of fuel through that line to the that injector. The combination of the mechanical noise of the injector and the detonation timing noise is generally referred to as "Injector Noise"
That noise can become ABNORMALLY LOUD (seriously LOUD) when injector(s) are worn out.

I bought an 82 Datsun King Cab with a 4 cylinder NISSAN SD22 Diesel (IDI) with about 325,000 miles on it with original injectors, all of them worn out and each one sounded like a piston rod breaking through the block. It was also blowing a gigantic cloud of mostly white smoke. I put new injectors in it AND IT RAN LIKE A WATCH. I loved THAT diesel truck more than any other diesel I've ever owned or driven.
Anyway here is a video that should help you to understand these mechanical injectors. Listen carefully when he does the pop test and you'll hear a metallic 'clank' instantly after the spray release. That's the internal piston and pintle needle seating with pressure from the internal spring, (after the fuel pressure is released). See my notes after the video
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NOTE: Excessive volume (decibels) of the noise could be from one or more worn out injectors, especially if accompanied by a lot of white smoke.
Alternatively it could be due to timing that is too far advanced.

It would be a good idea to have all of your injectors pop tested and decide whether to rebuild them or buy new ones.

One thing puzzles me about your truck. You said it only makes noise under load, and like 'no noise' otherwise. I think mine is loud all the time, it does get quieter when I am driving it though, and no smoke on start up, warm up or driving unless I try to push more fuel through the engine than it can efficiently burn. Diesel vehicles are NOT supposed to be driven like gas vehicles. When you need to accelerate you don't tromp the accelerator through the floor or you'll just blow a lot of black smoke waste fuel and make people want the government to confiscate our trucks and crush them.
Ideally don't give it much more fuel than it can efficiently burn. If you want a hot rod truck, buy a gas engine truck.
That being said, I KNOW there are times when we are compelled by circumstances to over fuel the engines too eek out a little bit more horsepower and torque, like to get over the top of that steep grade when working the truck with a sizeable load.

IP Timing for these IDI trucks and vans using modern at the pump diesel fuel should probably be between 9.0 degrees and 9.5 degrees BTDC. Not the original factory 8.5 degrees BTDC and the reason is due to the differences in detonation characteristics of modern Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel fuel and the old high sulfur fuel at the time these IDI trucks/engines were designed and built.
those timing numbers were figured out by some old timers in these forums who had A LOT OF EXPERIENCE working on these trucks and timing these engines and the detonation characteristics of low sulfur and ultra low sulfur fuel were taken into consideration.
TODAY with all of the "who knows what" biofuels are being added to ULSD it's hard to know exactly where to time them but I'm going to use those numbers to start with. NOT 8.5 deg. BTDC
I seem to recall reading that as these engines get more wear, higher miles, the timing needs to be set more advanced.
I'm just trying to figure out if this is just what NA IDIs sound like normally or if I should stop driving it until I can afford timing equipment.
NO ONE HERE (that I know of) HAS HEARD YOUR TRUCK RUN, BRIAN so how could we know???
You wrote that you would post a video.
 
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