my personal preference is to run a pusher pump on the frame rail.
with a regulator and dial in my desired fuel pressure
with a regulator and dial in my desired fuel pressure
Electric Lift Pumps, IP and Injection Timing
- Thread starter crash-harris
- Start date
crash-harris
Breaker! Breaker!
That's what I'm hoping to avoid. I get winter here and almost winter 2 other seasons 
And everything that is the most inconvenient thing that could grapevine when it's cold happens in winter. I would rather be leaning over a fender in winter instead of laying on my back in the cold, wet stuff. I'm thinking that if I need a regulator I'll run it between the electric lift pump and the filter head and tee it into the filter head return. Really hoping that the Duralift just runs no more than 7psi with the engine running.
And everything that is the most inconvenient thing that could grapevine when it's cold happens in winter. I would rather be leaning over a fender in winter instead of laying on my back in the cold, wet stuff. I'm thinking that if I need a regulator I'll run it between the electric lift pump and the filter head and tee it into the filter head return. Really hoping that the Duralift just runs no more than 7psi with the engine running.Shawn MacAnanny
Full Access Member
The facet filter is an 80 micron mesh filter from what i recall. I didnt like that or the restrictive 1/8" NPT fittings. I know everyone runs them without issue but i went with a 5 micron cat filter/pump with jic 5 lines and a 10 micron pre filter. Its 100 times easier to replace this twist lock filter than the one over the engine
I also dont think the regulator should be run before the filter, it should be run after, or off of the fuel return line at the filter otherwise you arent compensating for a clogged filter. If your pump can supply 10psi, itd be better to supply 10 to the filter and let it compensate for a clogging filter than to only supply 5 and let it drop your fuel pressure as it starts clogging.
I also dont think the regulator should be run before the filter, it should be run after, or off of the fuel return line at the filter otherwise you arent compensating for a clogged filter. If your pump can supply 10psi, itd be better to supply 10 to the filter and let it compensate for a clogging filter than to only supply 5 and let it drop your fuel pressure as it starts clogging.
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crash-harris
Breaker! Breaker!
How much is that swaglock you're ordering? Only real reason I'd run a regulator before the filter is so the return from it could be tied into a nearby return line. And the probe and availability of parts. I couldn't find your link, but I though that popet valve was petty cheap. If that's the cause, I may go that route if I need some sort of regulator. I'm not too concerned about needing to compensate for a filter starting to clog up. One of the reasons I installed a pressure gauge in cab is to let me know when it's about time to change the filter. Hopefully I won't need a regulator and I'm just over thinking it
Shawn MacAnanny
Full Access Member
I got mine for $13 shipped but they are usually $30-40. an FPR would work fine after filter. If you're running a fuel pressure gauge in the cab then that's perfect.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/162005165561?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Psi-1-4-S...251551?hash=item4af84b1adf:g:ee4AAOSwzhVWq-xV
Here's some info on how the valves are designed
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...SqunIebDl8rUCg&bvm=bv.117868183,d.eWE&cad=rja
http://www.ebay.com/itm/162005165561?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Psi-1-4-S...251551?hash=item4af84b1adf:g:ee4AAOSwzhVWq-xV
Here's some info on how the valves are designed
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...SqunIebDl8rUCg&bvm=bv.117868183,d.eWE&cad=rja
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Our injection pumps run on about 5 lbs pressure to the intake end but. We can run at zero pressure just fine too. What makes or injection pump operate is the volume of fuel reaching it. Not the actual pressure. We also have a small 4 vane internal pump in the end of the injection pump. Years ago we had a member that had a toggle switch that turned on or off his electric lift pump. He went driving and the engine felt weak on power. Figured it was him not flipping on the electric lift pump. So on it went and all the power came back. So there is proof these engine can run with no mechanical or electric lift pump running but they sure don't like it much. Also remember the fuel is not only supplying power but its also a coloant and lube for the injectors and the injection pump. We return about 80+% of the fuel to the tanks as it lubes and cools things.
crash-harris
Breaker! Breaker!
Still not a bad price. Are you planning to use it inline with the return hose from the filter head then? If I use one, I'd like to find an 1/8" NPT male-to-female at 5 psi. Looks like 1/4" NPT may be more available, but it would be nice to thread it into the filter head and thread the factory return hose barb on the other end.
So would that mean that there's more emphases on the GPH rating than the pressure rating? I had assumed that I'll be pumping more fuel through the return using the 40222 (11.5 psi max) duralift, I'm just worried about the electric pump causing the IP to internally advance/retard based on the lift pump output pressure.
Shawn MacAnanny
Full Access Member
I chose to go with tubing compression and i'll just clamp it inline with the rubber line and stainless tubing. They do make them in 1/8NPT. They valves opening pressure is specd at 3-9psi but swaglok makes some of the best tubing valves that exist so i am willing to bet is very close to 5psi. I bought an inline fuel presure gauge to install before it just to check then remove when i see its working right.
https://www.swagelok.com/en/catalog/Product/Detail?part=SS-CHM2-5
https://www.swagelok.com/en/catalog/Product/Detail?part=SS-2C2-5
I think with all the restrictions you probably wont see 11.5psi at the pump but it's always good to check first.
i'm planning on running it from the tee i have right before the injection pump, i dont have the stock filter, mines monted under the frame with the fuel pump so i installed a tee fitting at the top of the injection pump fuel feed that im installing this inline with to both vent air and regulate pressure.
https://www.swagelok.com/en/catalog/Product/Detail?part=SS-CHM2-5
https://www.swagelok.com/en/catalog/Product/Detail?part=SS-2C2-5
I think with all the restrictions you probably wont see 11.5psi at the pump but it's always good to check first.
i'm planning on running it from the tee i have right before the injection pump, i dont have the stock filter, mines monted under the frame with the fuel pump so i installed a tee fitting at the top of the injection pump fuel feed that im installing this inline with to both vent air and regulate pressure.
crash-harris
Breaker! Breaker!
mjs2011
Full Access Member
So with that knowledge at hand. What do you guys use to regulate your fuel pressure with if using electric pumps that push higher than 9ish psi?
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