Easy Vgt Setup

88 Ford

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So I have been doing a lot of research on Vgts. I have come to the conclusion that after I get my truck here to Cali and finish my supercharger setup, that I am going to put one on my truck also. But anyway, here is what I have found. The best setups as far and mechanical or pneumatic actuation in my opinion are the dual actuated air cylinders such as the one in the first three pictures. They keep drive pressure and boost as close to 1:1 as possible and thus keep the turbo from barking when pressure drops. These cylinders can be had on ebay for around $10. I believe these are the right type...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AIR-CYLINDE...ic_Hydraulic_Valves_Parts&hash=item231131e9b0

But anyway, you can also use a spring type actuator like in pictures four and five. The only problem with these types of setups is that after you shift there is no tension on the spring anymore, so it closes down the vanes too quickly causing the turbo to bark. But on the plus side, it is an easy setup to do.

And then there is the wastegate actuated type of setup. Which is pictured in pic six. These types of setups have similar advantages and disadvantages as spring setups except you have a lil bit more tuning control because your can use a boost controller to tune it. Also, to keep the vanes from closing too quickly, you can also use a manual boost regulator and turn the ball and spring around to slow the vanes. It will essentially hold the pressure on the vanes for a longer period of time. Wastegate type of setups can be either run off of boost or drive pressure. IMO drive pressure is the better option.

And if one wants to use the exhaust brake feature of these turbos you could do a setup like the one depicted in pictures 4 and 5 or you can setup an actuator such as the one in picture 6.

Now for the parts that will make the install easier than one would think. There are adapters for a t3 that goes to the he351ve. That type of flange is a wgmt flange. The ebay link is one type and other one was made by a guy. It is pictured in pic 7.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VGT-HE351-H...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item20bcfd5cc9

Another thing that will make installation easier is that fact that a Hx40 V-band clamp will fit. It doesn't fit perfectly but is close enough that it does work. That should be pretty easy to modify to make a decent downpipe for the setup. It might even be possible that a whole Hx40 downpipe off a Cummins might fit easily on the setup if you put the he351ve in place of an ATS 093 turbo but I don't know for sure.

But anyway, I hope this might help anyone who might want to do one of these setups in the future. :thumbsup:
 

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bike-maker

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Interesting idea.
I have experience in designing / assembling pneumatics systems if that can be of help.
I could go for hours about this stuff so I'll start off simple.
How would the cylinder be actuated?
Keep in mind air cylinders themselves are pretty inexpensive but the components to make them work can get expensive quickly. But this sounds like a pretty simple setup.
 

88beast

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sweet now to find some cheap lol i think i may try this
 

88 Ford

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Interesting idea.
I have experience in designing / assembling pneumatics systems if that can be of help.
I could go for hours about this stuff so I'll start off simple.
How would the cylinder be actuated?
Keep in mind air cylinders themselves are pretty inexpensive but the components to make them work can get expensive quickly. But this sounds like a pretty simple setup.

It would be quite simple actually. The rod side of the cylinder would be actuated by dive pressure and that would open the vanes up.The other side would would be vacuum and would close down the vanes. The drive pressure would start off higher and would open the vanes until the boost catches up and gets closer to equilibrium. Also another thought I had to exercise the vanes so they don't stick is to open the vanes all the way by using a valve to divert the boost into the drive pressure side. I think that could work. But as I said before, this would be project for down the road. I still have to mount my supercharger which should be pretty easy since the mound and stuff is made already. All I have to do is make the belt setup and mount is. ;Sweet

If you want to get slightly technical, I would be more than happy to listen. If I don't understand, I will ask. :)
 

bike-maker

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Sounds like a pretty sound setup.
A simple air valve could be used to divert the boost into the drive pressure side.
Only problem with that; I haven't seen any valves that are remotely activated. They kinda look like an electrical toggle switch. The way around that would be an electrically switched solenoid (most of them I have used are 12v), but they are about $50 a pop.
One more thing that could be added; they make speed controls that screw into the ports of the air cylinder that can be easily adjusted to slow the speed of the air cylinder. Might come in handy to slow the vanes from opening to quickly - not sure if that would be needed though - depends on how quickly the pressures on each side of the turbo equalize.
 

88 Ford

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Sounds like a pretty sound setup.
A simple air valve could be used to divert the boost into the drive pressure side.
Only problem with that; I haven't seen any valves that are remotely activated. They kinda look like an electrical toggle switch. The way around that would be an electrically switched solenoid (most of them I have used are 12v), but they are about $50 a pop.
One more thing that could be added; they make speed controls that screw into the ports of the air cylinder that can be easily adjusted to slow the speed of the air cylinder. Might come in handy to slow the vanes from opening to quickly - not sure if that would be needed though - depends on how quickly the pressures on each side of the turbo equalize.

Ya I meant solenoid. My bad. But ya that would work I would think. And where would I get one of those speed controls? It would add more tuneability.
 

bike-maker

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We've always used SMC components ordered directly through SMC at my work. SMC calls them sped controls.
McMaster-Carr has a decent selection of pneumatic stuff. They call them airflow control valves.
Check out "D" or "F" under air flow control valves here
 

lotzagoodstuff

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Spring return air cylinder thoughts

Just a thought: you can get a spring return air cylinder like the Bimba you referenced. This way you can use vacuum or boost to actuate it and then it will spring return to the static position. Just some more food for thought, cool idea and nice fabrication ;Sweet
 

88 Ford

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We've always used SMC components ordered directly through SMC at my work. SMC calls them sped controls.
McMaster-Carr has a decent selection of pneumatic stuff. They call them airflow control valves.
Check out "D" or "F" under air flow control valves here

I will definitely look into that. Thank you. Those speed controls might even make the waste gate setup I mentioned better too. It would prevent turbo bark by keeping the vanes from slamming shut.
 

88 Ford

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Just a thought: you can get a spring return air cylinder like the Bimba you referenced. This way you can use vacuum or boost to actuate it and then it will spring return to the static position. Just some more food for thought, cool idea and nice fabrication ;Sweet

My one concern about a spring return type setup is that it could slam the vanes shut too fast. That is why I was thinking of a setup like this. And thanks for the compliments. I'm just trying to build on what others have done and hope tosee if it works. :D
 

lotzagoodstuff

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You could meter the exit of the return to static position with a simple metering valve and control the speed of the spring return. Pretty common practice actually, lets you run a very powerful/positive return spring but control/adjust the return speed.
 

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